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Fuel Pump Issue

2K views 14 replies 8 participants last post by  ctwjim 
#1 ·
Hello all lets see if we can get the community to help . . .

The fuel pump will not prime when the key is turned, therefor the bike will not run.

1997 TL1000S
*Sitting for 2 years.
*No issues before 2 year mark.
*New battery.
*Fuel pump relay replaced (didn't need to but did it anyway), voltage and resistance within range.
*Tip over sensor voltage and resistance within range.
*Tried jumping the wires at fuel pump relay and the pump still will not run.
*No error codes while in dealer mode.

Question is this, how can I test the pump directly to make sure its bad, because I'm not willing to spend the cash on a pump for a "maybe".
 
#2 ·
Did you check that the "kill" switch is off and make sure it's in "neutral". Having the kickstand down and the transmission "in" gear will also inhibit starting.
 
#6 ·
it was a small filter from advance autoparts. i will post the part number when i get home.
i replaced all the fuel line to high pressure hose and reused the twist lock factory ends. i bent a section of fuel line that i also purchased from the parts store.
i think it was under Mcknowns inline filter on the tl planet forum under the freq mods list.
 
#8 ·
@Dave gonna clean the pump up today, the bad thing is, is that I can't hear the pump turn on at all. I was hoping for a electrical voltage/resistance spec check.
not to sure never had to get that far into the tl yet. i recommend a service manual.[/QUOTE]

Before you dive in to far, mine was doing the same tonight, took an hour -ish to fix (including searching on 'ere), check the fault code, (probably c41??), but before you tear the thing apart check the big white multiplug behind the rhs top fairing for bad contacts and corrosion inside it.

hope this helps
 
#9 ·
Also check the clutch switch
Clutch needs pulling in to start but if the switch has failed it still wont allow the pump to prime
 
#10 ·
copied from write up on tl planet by osmckeown:

Ok for those who want to do this "Mckeown's Inline fuel filter mod" -I have heard others have done it, but was unable to find a write up on it, so I'm calling it mine until someone else calls me on it, then I will renounce my MOD.

Materials needed:

4 ft or more (room for error) of 5/16" Fuel injector hose
(6) 14-16mm hose clamps
A Puraolator F10024 Fuel Filter
1 Zip Tie

First remove the gas tank
1. remove the steering damper (6mm Hex)
2. remove the 2 front bolts holding the tank on (4mm Hex)
3. Remove the rider's seat (6mm Hex)
4. Unplug the fuel pump & tip sensor plugs under the rider's seat (fuel pump is the black one, tip sensor is grey
5. Lift tank and use stay bar.
6. Remove Vent hose
7. Remove Send hose (the one with the blue quick disconnect tabs) use a rag to catch the little bit of gas that will come out, it should stop flowing.
8. Remove the return hose (one with a clamp on it) after you take this off fuel will continue to pour out of the tank, use a rubber nipple to stop the flow (I said nipple)
9. Remove 2 rear bolts holding on tank (12mm Bolt)
10. Remove the tank!


McKeown's Inline Fuel Mod
1. Remove all bolts holding the pump in (underside of the tank)
2. Remove the pump
3. Cut the zip tie at the top of the rubber boot and remove the rubber cover (boot)
-The filter is the fat round one held in by hoses only-
4. Unscrew the screws holding the filter on the top of the fuel assembly
5. Use pliers to slide the clamps off the hoses holding the filter and remove the filter.
7. Remove the hoses that held the filter in place, cut a piece of your new 5/16" Injector hose and place it over the nipples that you just removed the hose from, SECURE THIS HOSE WITH YOUR NEW 14-16mm HOSE CLAMPS!!!!
8. In reverse order, put the pump back in the tank (TIGHTEN BOLTS IN PROPER ORDER, TO PROPER TORQUE!)

McKeown's Inline Fuel Filter

1. Remove the Send Hose (the one with the blue connector from the tank to the fuel rail and discard it, BUT, KEEP THE QUICK CONNECTS
-Remove the spiral plastic stuff off the hose, cut it in half if you want, theres a plastic hose inside and the rubber on the outside is more of a heat shield, it won't hold and PSI for $hit! (I found out the hard way!)
2. After removing the Quick connect ends from the hose insert the one from the tank into a piece of 5/16" injector hose secure with a 14-16mm clamp
3. Measure the hose, where you want the filter, cut, insert the filter (MAKE SURE "FLOW" IS POINTING TOWARDS THE FUEL RAIL, NOT THE TANK) Secure with 14-16mm hose clamp
4. Take the other quick connect (One with a 90 degree bend, from the Fuel Rail) and insert into a piece of 5/16" Injector Hose, Secure with a 14-16mm hose clamp.
5. Cut the hose to length so that it fits up against the filter without bending, secure with a 14-16mm hose clamp.

That's it, put everything back together, change your filter more often, for only $4!


all i did diffrent was put a section of metal fuel line in so i did not have to find submersable fuel line. give any auto parts place the puralator fuel filter number they will get you set up.

here is the link for the full thread: http://www.tlplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73570
 
#11 ·
The exact same thing happened to me about 2 months ago!

Take out the fuel pump completely (off the tank), and hook it to a charging station for a car battery. Set it on low voltage or whatever is closest to what the fuel pump requires (sorry I don't have the numbers off the top of my head). and honestly I didn't care if it was more voltage than it needed. I was just screwin around...anyways,
Once it's hooked up to voltage, tap on the pump several times with a wrench. Don't destroy the thing, just give it some firm taps.

I tried this and IT STARTED RUNNING AGAIN!!!. My fuel pump primes every time and the bike has started ever since. -not sure how long it'l last, but its a cheap fix. No problems since.

Hope this helps a bit. Its worth a try as stupid as it may sound. My buddy used to tap on diesel truck fuel pumps and get em running again too. thats what made us think to try it. tap tap tap tap - Wheeeeeeeeee.... good to go.

hope this helps a bit. Try it. It's worth a shot, and it worked for me.
 
#12 ·
Thanks for the part number and info. I think this is the route i want to go since my tank was pretty rusted when I first got the bike. It had set for several years. I cleaned the hell out of the tank but I'm sure there is still some junk in there and once they start rusting I think it continues. Thanks again!
 
#14 ·
#15 ·
I think your fuel pump is seized. try tapping on it a few times with a wrench while its under voltage. Or you can spend a few hundred dollars. Those are your two choices. rusty tank = fuel pump will likely be first casualty. dont buy a new one without tappin on the old one. I can't stress that enough. Everyone here seems to think it has something to do with the electrical system on the 97's, but I assure you, it most likely does NOT. I've got quite a neglected TL from 97, but I've never had problems with fuel pump that relate to a tip sensor, kick stand, or starter relay. thats all rubbish. I understand those are good things to check, but if your fuel pump wont prime, and its getting voltage, there are only a few things left to try. One is free. The other is costly. See above...
Once again, I hope my banter has in some way helped you to find a solution. No disrespect intended to anyone with differing opinions.
get that thing started. Get a new tank soon. Rust is not a friend of gasoline! =(
 
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