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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I installed a new fuel pump, the one from the 89 dodge caravan. . .It definatly fixed the problem with the fuel pressure, but didn't make the bike start up any better or idle any smoother.

I'm gonna get a picture of one of the plugs tonight, and post it up, but as for right now here's what it was doing today.

Start up fine, idle at 1150 or 1200 or so. THen once it got to about 110 degrees it would just die. I have to crank the idle screw up three good turns. THen. . .once it got up to 180 degrees the idle would shoot up to 2300 or so, when it was at 1200 seconds earlier.

If that doesn't make sense let me know. I called the repair shop and made an appointment for next monday, but I just want to know what's wrong with it!
 

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Crank trigger. I have a feeling mine is doing the same thing. Try elongating the holes the trigger has to move it closer to the flywheel. Dynojet was telling me the TL has a pretty weak signal to begin with and that gap might need adjustment.

That's my job for tonight, so I will report my finding later.
 

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Sorry, Crank Position Sensor. It's either that or your cam position sensor. Those are the two main sensors used for starting, without a good signal the ECU doesn't know when to fire.

A weak battery will make the bike very hard to start too. But you could tell if the battery was weak. I haven't done the work to mine yet, but after I will try to get to it tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You get that done? What all is involved? I took a look and couldn't really tell. I have to drain the oil and take off that right case cover?

Driving around today I'd have to crank the idle up to about 2k and then I'd just be sittin ghtere at a stop light at 2k and all of a sudden there would be one really bad fire and the engine dies at 2k. Really starting to frustrate me.
 

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That is what mine does, kinda. The idle is all over the place. I bump it up, then it needs to be lowered, then it needs to be raised again. It just straight up died on me yesterday when I was slowing for a light. I could just tell by the sound of the engine it was going to die, but it starts right back up.

And no I haven't worked on mine yet. But to do it you need to either lower the oil level or drop it completely. Then take off the black engine cover on the left side where the stator is. There will be a small black sensor with two 8mm bolts holding it on. You just take the bolts out, and use a file to elongate the holes. So they are elliptical rather than round. You want the sensor to move closer to the flywheel so it gets a better signal. Don't go to crazy as you don't want the flywheel to hit the sensor, that would be bad.

I am really thinking this is an electrical problem since it's so intermittant. I haven't lost any power, it just stumbles while on constant throttle around 4K and under. I hope I get to it tonight as I hate having my bike sit, but then again, I hate working on it too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I took engine cover off today. . .I need a new gasket, the old one is more than shot. And how do those gears go back on? They fell off when I was removing the engine. . .
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
On Ron Ayers there are two Magneto Gaskets:
11483-02F10 and 11483-02F00 how do I know which one I need? Sorry I'm such a lost puppy, I've never been into this side of the engine.

And then on page 3F-0 in the TLS manual 189/477 if you're using the pdf The two gears on the left, I dunno what they are. . are there two bushings? I feel like I'm missing one, and that's why I can't figure it out. Hopefully one didn't fall in :banghead
 

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The regular looking gear goes in first, then the torque limiter goes in over the gear. There are bushings on either side of the torque limiter, one goes in the engine and the other goes in the outer case.

The installation page is 3-55 in the TLR manual from www.jiffypark.com. This part of the engine is the same whether it's an R or an S.

The 11483-02F00 probably will not work as the 11483-02F10 is the updated version. So use the later of the two numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So I tried it out today using the old gasket just to see if it idled any better.

Not that I could tell, but I didn't get it up to operating temp. I busted my clutch cable too. . .doh. I'm getting too frustrated to work on the bike myself. It's probably time to take it to someone who does this for a living.
 

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You might want to do the test from the manual. You need a meter that will hold the maximum DC voltage. While cranking you should get over 4 VDC at the plug that goes into the ECU. Then you can check the resistance of the sensor. It should read between 184-276 ohms from wire to wire and infinate ohms from wire to ground.

After that, ummmmmmmmm. Part it out or trade it in on a Gixxer. :O
 

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Well you need a meter that will hold the max voltage. The digital display will not refresh fast enough to display the max. The analog output will flicker, but you cannot tell what the range is. I am looking for a meter to borrow tomorrow to do this test.
 

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So I installed a new fuel pump, the one from the 89 dodge caravan. . .It definatly fixed the problem with the fuel pressure, but didn't make the bike start up any better or idle any smoother.

I'm gonna get a picture of one of the plugs tonight, and post it up, but as for right now here's what it was doing today.

Start up fine, idle at 1150 or 1200 or so. THen once it got to about 110 degrees it would just die. I have to crank the idle screw up three good turns. THen. . .once it got up to 180 degrees the idle would shoot up to 2300 or so, when it was at 1200 seconds earlier.

If that doesn't make sense let me know. I called the repair shop and made an appointment for next monday, but I just want to know what's wrong with it!
Hey Dan I wanted to ask you if you can post a picture of the caravan fuel pump or can you give me the part number and name etc. Where you got it from please. Thanks
 

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Hey Dan I wanted to ask you if you can post a picture of the caravan fuel pump or can you give me the part number and name etc. Where you got it from please. Thanks
Nekkedtl, It's unlikely you will get a response from an 18-year-old post...

The Dodge Caravan pump was OK at the time, but it is not the best option now.

A good modern option is available from Kemso on eBay.

Line Font Rectangle Coil Art



KEMSO Intank Fuel Pump for Suzuki TL1000R 1998-2003 | eBay
 

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lol ya no shit,wow 18 years.
ok so my fuel pump stopped whining, as well as a bad connection in one of the connector boxes.i cleaned the connector boxes, went thru some more of the harness and cleaned it up a bit.anyway she's cranking now but no whining from fp still.so do u think I should check the fp relay? if so whats the best way.im gonna be looking around here too as usual. as for the link
 
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