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Discussion Starter #1
I got a tlr MC on my tls. half of the lever travel has no stoping
power at all. that causes the lever touch my fingers when hard
braking.
this is what i did to, but unsolved it yet.
- fitting a new MC kit (piston, spring etc)
- bleed it (twice)
- new lever
- the pads are meaty.

any ideas?
 

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Try bleeding it more. A set of braided lines may also help out.
 

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still air in the line if it is that soft.

Use a cable (zip) tie to hold the lever against the throttle overnight as tight as you can. then re-bleed it the next day. If that doesn't work, apply a small amount of heat, warmth to the lines, squeeze the lever and hold it while tapping the m/c, calipers with a small piece of wood. I use the plastic handle of a small screwdriver to do this. It helps to dislodge the air bubbles.

I always leave the bottle of new brake fluid in the sun for an hour or so beforehand. and or change brake fluid after a ride while everything is hot.
 

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Hi dude,

I had similar symptoms, drove me nuts

Cured it though.......see the 'BRAKE MAGIC' thread in what i learned today section

i'm sure it will help

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i've forgot to say that i do have braided lines.
i did the bleeding twice, i taped it all over.
and mac, i understand your remedy, but what is the disease?
the pistons needs a great pressure to come out, so a half travel isn't enough?
cause i do get a good braking pressure, but that's nearly at the point the
lever's on my fingers. so, the pistons arn't stuck.
i guess it is an air pocket. a pump would do better?
 

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If your still running the twin spots you are going to have poorer brakes when you get it sorted than you started with.
A smaller M/C gives you better line pressure for the same lever pressure. its the relationship of M/C size and caliper piston area which is important. R m/c for R calipers. S for S. I have an S m/c on R calipers. long lever travel and phenomenal brakes. I am used to it tho its not for everyone.
If you go R m/c S calipers then you are going to be squeezing a brick!!
 

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The Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow Moderator,
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Fairly sure you have air in the top of the lines at the banjo onto the master cylinder.

Either raise the calipers above the master cylinder when bleeding (otherwise your trying to pump air 1m downhill)

...or slacken the master banjo bolt enough so it still seals but you can loosen it with one hand. Wrap tissue/cloth around the banjo and Pull the lever back as far as it will with one hand and with the other crack the banjo bolt undone 1/4 turn and watch the air bubble out. Tighten the bolt again before letting lever out.

This will get most of the air out and allow you to pump the remaining down to the calipers in the usual way.

When bleeding brakes (not filling from empty) I submerge the bleeding pipe into fluid and open the bleed nipple 1/4 - 1/2 turn open and pump fast, smooth and continous until the reservoir is almost empty then on the last pump keep the lever in until the bleed nipple is tight.

The continous pumping gets any air from the top of the lines down to the bottom where a single pump wouldn't.

Also on another note, many people replace their old fluid without first emptying the calipers aswell, no point putting fresh fluid in when 50% of the old spongy fluid is still in the system !
 

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The disease is when you pull the lever and get brake pressure, but if you keep squeezing the lever comes back to your fingers, mainly caused by one or two pistons moving out and biting ( hence the initial pressure) and then the remaining pistons slowly coming out further ( hence the lever touching your fingers eventually ).

i spent more time than i should of bleeding, changing fluid e.t.c. before sorting it, and believe me it was night and day difference in bite and stopping power with no new anything!!!!

Good luck cabrone', hope you get to the bottom of it :)
 
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