...should have been 'front end options'...of course (typo). Another reason I didn't do a transplant was because I have a set of decent 6-pots, and I've had good luck with them as long as they're clean and with a good radial master, lines, and aggressive HH pads.
fornt end options
Now with a short swingarm extension (adjustable from stock to +6") and the new rear suspension the front is going to be overloaded with my lardy gut plus the weight shift forward.
I was weighing my options...and I would have liked to transplant a front end with radial calipers. But I'm just to lazy without a step by step how-to. So I picked up a set of new Race Tech 1.0 springs and some thin fluid. Then I discovered the bottom bit of travel area of my male lower steel fork tubes have teensie chipped flaking chrome spots. It looks like where there's more use they were coated with fluid that protected them but apparently the previous owner never got close to bottoming the forks, so the bottoms were dry. So I dropped them off at Race Tech. They're going to call me Monday. They said it's no problem to polish the bottoms of the legs and they wouldn't lose appreciable fluid 'cause in that area in normal riding and not stunting or something. I usually do this stuff myself now that I have all the tools, but what the heck their rate is reasonable when you don't have to pay any shipping.
So I should probably get new seals while it's apart, as Race Tech gets them cheap in bulk from the seal mfgr. And new synth thin fluid. I ordered some Silkolene 5 but it was taking forever to arrive, so I cancelled.
If I end up with Race Tech US 1 Light, normally I would put in Gold Valves to go with it. That made a huge improvement on my old '97 which originally came with horribly restrictive valving. But this is a 2000 TLS, which was better. I put them on the TLR too. I've probably told dozens of people to put in Race Tech Gold Valves, but now that I'm short on dollars I'm wondering whether to spend the money. Any advice on whether to get Gold Valves, and if I do so how I want the shim stack set up? Or with the longer rear suspension should I just go with a pseudo drag theme and leave the restrictive-flow stock valves to slow down pitch and dive? Does the longer wheelbase itself slow down pitch and dive enough?
I was weighing my options...and I would have liked to transplant a front end with radial calipers. But I'm just to lazy without a step by step how-to. So I picked up a set of new Race Tech 1.0 springs and some thin fluid. Then I discovered the bottom bit of travel area of my male lower steel fork tubes have teensie chipped flaking chrome spots. It looks like where there's more use they were coated with fluid that protected them but apparently the previous owner never got close to bottoming the forks, so the bottoms were dry. So I dropped them off at Race Tech. They're going to call me Monday. They said it's no problem to polish the bottoms of the legs and they wouldn't lose appreciable fluid 'cause in that area in normal riding and not stunting or something. I usually do this stuff myself now that I have all the tools, but what the heck their rate is reasonable when you don't have to pay any shipping.
So I should probably get new seals while it's apart, as Race Tech gets them cheap in bulk from the seal mfgr. And new synth thin fluid. I ordered some Silkolene 5 but it was taking forever to arrive, so I cancelled.
If I end up with Race Tech US 1 Light, normally I would put in Gold Valves to go with it. That made a huge improvement on my old '97 which originally came with horribly restrictive valving. But this is a 2000 TLS, which was better. I put them on the TLR too. I've probably told dozens of people to put in Race Tech Gold Valves, but now that I'm short on dollars I'm wondering whether to spend the money. Any advice on whether to get Gold Valves, and if I do so how I want the shim stack set up? Or with the longer rear suspension should I just go with a pseudo drag theme and leave the restrictive-flow stock valves to slow down pitch and dive? Does the longer wheelbase itself slow down pitch and dive enough?
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Speaking as one who has taken the transplant route I'd recommend it. Granted there's nothing really wrong with the original TLR fitments but the newer stuff is just that bit more right.
The step-by-step is easy.
1. Look at Steve's fork swap chart here. http://wotid.com/tls/content/view/60/47/
2. Decide which forks you want to go for. In my case I managed to source a complete GSXR1000KZ4 front end with wheel and brakes included. Which was nice.
3. Buy one of Sam's spacer kits. :hail
4. Take out old front end.
5. Put in new front end.
6. Marvel at new radial brakes which (even though your old 6-pots did work quite well when cleaned and serviced) are in a whole new league.
7. Enjoy lovely new ride quality, noting how your fillings now stay in your teeth.
The step-by-step is easy.
1. Look at Steve's fork swap chart here. http://wotid.com/tls/content/view/60/47/
2. Decide which forks you want to go for. In my case I managed to source a complete GSXR1000KZ4 front end with wheel and brakes included. Which was nice.
3. Buy one of Sam's spacer kits. :hail
4. Take out old front end.
5. Put in new front end.
6. Marvel at new radial brakes which (even though your old 6-pots did work quite well when cleaned and serviced) are in a whole new league.
7. Enjoy lovely new ride quality, noting how your fillings now stay in your teeth.
What year & model was yours? Gold Valves also go a long way toward getting rid of that problem.7. Enjoy lovely new ride quality, noting how your fillings now stay in your teeth.
98.
There's more travel in the new forks. The front just feels a lot more planted. There's scope for more improvement as I just threw the forks in as I received them. They could maybe use a service but even in their current state they are better.
I'm sure re-valving the stock efforts would be a step up but in this instance I'm raising the bar from which I'm starting.
And let's not forget the brakes. I had no real complaints about the 6-pots. I'd picked up a very nicely refurb'ed set and I could stand the bike on its nose without too much trouble. The radials offer much more feel and will probably hold up better if worked hard. Haven't had much chance to test that theory yet though but day to day the radials feel like an improvement.
Plus I don't have to strip and clean the calipers every other week to keep them working. That is a feature of the 6-pots. Higher maintenance than the Kardashian sisters.
Anyway I got the whole gixer front end for a couple of hundred so what's not to like?
There's more travel in the new forks. The front just feels a lot more planted. There's scope for more improvement as I just threw the forks in as I received them. They could maybe use a service but even in their current state they are better.
I'm sure re-valving the stock efforts would be a step up but in this instance I'm raising the bar from which I'm starting.
And let's not forget the brakes. I had no real complaints about the 6-pots. I'd picked up a very nicely refurb'ed set and I could stand the bike on its nose without too much trouble. The radials offer much more feel and will probably hold up better if worked hard. Haven't had much chance to test that theory yet though but day to day the radials feel like an improvement.
Plus I don't have to strip and clean the calipers every other week to keep them working. That is a feature of the 6-pots. Higher maintenance than the Kardashian sisters.
Anyway I got the whole gixer front end for a couple of hundred so what's not to like?
The complications are:
- This is a TLS.
- I already have new Carrozzeria wheels for a TL front end.
- I already have a nice upper triple clamp from Van.
- I really hope not to shim the triple clamps, and I want stock key switch and steering lock.
- Does Sam have a website for his stuff?
- I already have the Race Tech 1.0 spring set. I wonder what ever forks it fits?
- I already have new 6-pots.
- I would probably want to put Race Tech Gold Valves in the new forks too!
I don't think I can afford it yet anyway.
- This is a TLS.
- I already have new Carrozzeria wheels for a TL front end.
- I already have a nice upper triple clamp from Van.
- I really hope not to shim the triple clamps, and I want stock key switch and steering lock.
- Does Sam have a website for his stuff?
- I already have the Race Tech 1.0 spring set. I wonder what ever forks it fits?
- I already have new 6-pots.
- I would probably want to put Race Tech Gold Valves in the new forks too!
I don't think I can afford it yet anyway.
Interesting. Might jump up on my upgrade to do list.That made a huge improvement on my old '97 which originally came with horribly restrictive valving.
I have a TLS....if i run the GSXR 1000 forks will it lower my front compared to GSXR 750 forks?
From the chart I'd say yes. Unless you use the 750-K7 forks (738mm) then the 1000 forks will be between 6 and 12mm shorter, depending on what year you pick.I have a TLS....if i run the GSXR 1000 forks will it lower my front compared to GSXR 750 forks?
I have gsxr 600 k7 forks and calipers, Sam spacers kit and busa axle. At the same time i put one Brembo rcs 19 master cylinder, and now i can say that the bike is braking quite better....:thumbup:thumbup
I should have started with better forks if I ever wanted to win TL of the month LOL. But it's done. I just took what I had, put in 1.0 springs cut to 1.1 rate and preload added, and Gold Valves. I could have gotten better for less by replacing them, but these should work OK and it was easy. DO bling. All performance.
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
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