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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys i was thinking of changing my fork fluid. My bike has about 15k and i just think it would be about time for it to be changed but i have a couple questions first.

1. what fork fluid is best to use (weight and brand)
2. should i go with a heavier weight (im 220lbs suited up)
3. Im not rebuilding my fork so how long should i let them drain and how much more fluid goes back in

I hope this doesn't sound to stupid

Thanks guys
 

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hope it don't sound stupid because :stupid
 

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this is the one thing i have never done on any bike!!!

and never really looked in to it either

do you need special tools to open up the forks!!

is there a how too anywhere :D
 

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5wt, cartridge rated oil. Brand doesn't matter much, but its best to stick with the same brand as they all differ a little in what they consider 5wt and you'll have to fiddle about with your settings when you change brands most times.

You'll need a spring compressor, read the service manual:deal

Doug wrote a how to with pics and all. It may still be around somewhere.
 

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1. 5wt ... you can buy Suzuki, Yamaha, Honda etc brand fluids here :dowhat I used Yamaha :laugh
2. according to Doug I think it was, DON'T mess with the oil - fork internals are designed to use that. If you're not getting enough damping, go to heavy springs and better valving ie. Racetech ... trust me, you want to - it's night and day :yes also, like Cyclecamper says - simply changing the oil can have a big effect on the system ;)
3. According to the manual you gotta pull the internals to completely drain them, but according to my mechanic you don't :confused I'd go with whatever Doug says :laugh I think you need slightly less than 1L of oil ... it's about 498cc per side or something ...
 

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What bike and year? The '97 really needs gold valves too.

For your weight you might want stiffer springs.

You can always dial in more low-speed damping regardless of the fluid, but if you put in thick fluid you can't increas the high-speed compliance. Think of it this way: thinner fluid is the poor man's gold valves.

The book says exactly how much, or you can pump the fork and then set the fluid height...the amount of remaining air is critical, as it determines the progressive part of the compression spring to resist bottoming. Best to have exactly the same in each leg, then add until it won't bottom landing a stoppie?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
98 TLR 15k.

I only want to change my fluid but i was thinking of using a thicker wt. because of my body weight. What do you think? I hate that there is so much compression when im on and off the throttle.
 

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Springs for weight, not oil viscosity.

With the spring out, the book spec for oil level is 100mm from the top of the leg IIRC.
 

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wow man

that looks like a major pain in the poo-poo


of course I have to take all that shit apart to paint it anyway :banghead


does changing the oil really make a diff in feel?
 

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wow man

that looks like a major pain in the poo-poo


of course I have to take all that shit apart to paint it anyway :banghead


does changing the oil really make a diff in feel?
Shit yeah!Back when changing the fork oil was as easy as releasing the drain screw I used to change my fork oil every second service.I could always feel the difference.As you can imagine water and crap eventually make their way through the seals,plus any worn seals and bushes-they don't make very good fork oil:devious
 

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98 TLR 15k.

I only want to change my fluid but i was thinking of using a thicker wt. because of my body weight. What do you think? I hate that there is so much compression when im on and off the throttle.
Probably a bad idea. The hydraulics can only make the fore/aft pitching slower, it will not affect how far it pitches. Thicker oil will limit the speed the suspension can move after the stacks pop open, you will have too much high-speed compression damping and it will go into hydraulic lock-up rather than being able to compress quickly as the tire goes up a bump or extend quickly as the tire goes down the back side of a bump.

SteveTLS has it right, use stiffer springs to compensate for your weight instead. You might even be able to add slugs and shorten the springs a little bit?? The usual remedy is replacing them with higher-rate springs.
 
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