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FNG with couple questions

397 Views 4 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  1is2many
picked up a well used TL.

curious about the tuning of this FI system and TB's, it doesn't want to idle properly at spec idle so of course i turned the idle up some.
im getting some missing at idle or little baby backfires which sounds almost like it's missing but it's definitely running on both cylinders. if i blip the throttle it will backfire sometimes I can hear it and feel the puff of air hit the inside of my knees/legs, there are no fairings on this bike. S frame R motor, set a spec idle it will die usually, that's if the RPM gauge is working properly. Even set at 1500 sometimes at idle it will just die, but fires right back up.

I moved to a different climate, elevation and humidity and now it seems to idle better (at least the random dying while idling seems to have stopped) oh and I did change the oil and plugs before i moved but that didn't really change the idle or backfire issues at all. after moving it seems to idle better though still missing at idle and the random backfires on the low end.

not my first time around a bike or motors, but rather than just go tweaking on it I'd like to ask for areas on this particular bike to check first.
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Welcome to TLZ. :bigfinger

Inspect your TB boots and make sure the TB's are seated properly and the boots are not cracked. Inspect plug wires. Do you know if the cams were previously removed?

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Welcome to TLZ. :bigfinger

Inspect your TB boots and make sure the TB's are seated properly and the boots are not cracked. Inspect plug wires. Do you know if the cams were previously removed?

Will inspect soon, cams were not touched but valves were checked for spec and PO said they are good (withen spec).
Make sure throttle bodies are seated and there are no vacuum ports or hoses leaking.

The coils and spark plug caps screw onto the high-voltage wires. So trim a bit off each end or replace the wires.

Make sure all coil primary connections are really tight!

Replace the spark plugs regardless of what they look like.

Make sure the clutch switch is connected, GPS works, and if there is a TRE that it's a Smart TRE, so that the ECU switches between lean-idle map and power-run map as you engage the clutch in gear, but doesn't foul plugs in neutral or when the clutch lever is squeezed.

Borrow a Yosh box and zero all settings.

The TLS throttle bodies have an air-bleed screw, the TLR doesn't. So after the butterflies are somewhat balanced, follow the Suzuki video on youtube (which demonstrates the procedure in the manual).

Touch-up via the Yosh box tuning.

Then decide whether you want the precision control of a power commander.

Consider a + current supply relay for the coils, which does help.

Pop out the injectors, have RC Engineering clean them and replace the internal filter, and flow-test and test the pattern.

Remove & block off any PAIR.

Check & replace the rear cylinder stub head pipe seal gasket.

Airbox mods.

Then it should idle like a purr and pounce like a tiger.
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i was searching here and other places and it seems that the clunk that this thing does sometimes when i shut it off it not to worry about, i was concerned at first.

just did a visual inspection from outside and the boots are good tight and things look to be seated properly, i will dig deeper when i get my other bike out of storage, right now the TL is my main transportation.

I do know there were mods done to this bike, how much/which ones and how long ago is the question. I'm sure it needs a good tuning again.
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