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It has to be more efficient, because it's running cooler.

I would be worried about that steel wool getting into my engine. That celica page used plastic which looked more safe.

I can post a picture of dominator oil separator, it's spins the oil to the outer walls of the separator, oil sticks to the walls and falls back to engine. But I am taking my vacation, so it will take some time before I have picture transfer capabilities...

Great effort..

JarkkoT.
 

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Interesting. Couple of questions for you Doug...

how did you connect to the front cylinder? did you use a rear valve cover?

You removed the stock oil seperator, but did you remove the reed valve?

Have you tested it under full throttle/hard riding conditions?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I used the stock front valve cover and drilled a hole in it and JB weld epoxied a copper elbow into the cover. I dont think the stainless scrubber will come apart as it is fairly course thought about the plastic but was more worried about it falling apart.I have run it for 2 days yesterday 30 degrees celesius or about 85 up a mountian for 5km at full speed normally it hot soaks and spews oil, it was bone dry and there was no oil reisdue on the inside of the hump and it was up hill so it did not run to the back and out. In town running stop and go runs 183 to occassionally it gets to 190 but was much slower and did not seem to want to go to 220 which it normally would then the fans would cut in. Also I would suggest a 3/4" KN currently I am using the 1/2" one only because I have it but if you go to the german rc 51 site he is using 22mm which about 7/8" I will upgrade to the 3/4 eventually.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The reed valve is still in the crankcase you need that because it acts as a vacuum pump to pull the condensed oil back to the crankcase.
 

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It runs cooler because the oil is now liquid in stead of vapor and the stock piece of crap breather tank is actually a 1/4" hole which is no where near enough ventilation for a 60 cubic inch air compressor this is why I will go to the 3/4" vent line and I think it will be even better. The 2 1/2" breather lines have an area about equal to a 3/4" line so the in comming vent should be about 3/4".
 

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I'm sure the EPA would love it, but what about a venturi in the exhaust system to pull a bit of negative pressure on the breather set-up too?

Has anyone tried it that you know of?
 

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Doug, what's the purpose of the optional line back to the airbox? Is that primarily for the environmentally conscious? Or does it help create a little negative pressure on the separator?

Just curious. Maybe I just haven't given it enough thought yet... :O

:hail Great thread though. This is going to be among the mods I'll be doing before getting a full remapping done. Methinks I'm going to cancel that appointment, do crap-loads of breathing mods over the winter, and strap her up on the dyno when all that's completed...

Cheers,
Marc
 

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Good work, you should build some extra ones for lazy people like me.

About the question of routing a line to the exhaust, I have heard of people running their crancase breather straight into their exhaust with good results.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
the optional line to the airbox would be if you are racing you cannot vent to atmosphere on a race system. The breather basicly runs under vaccuum because there is a reed valve in the crankcase that only lets air in not out so on the upward piston stroke there is vaccuum created in the crankcase which draws the condensed oil back to the oil pan. If you run a crankcase breather straight to the exhaust you will loose a lot of oil not a good setup. Have run mine extensively in hot weather 25-30 celcius or about 85 90 F and the bike definetly runs cooler idling in traffic barely climbs to 190-200F and have not had the fans come on yet, still need to try the 3/4" breather filter instead of the 1/2" I think that will be even better.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
got busy today and put a 3/4" vent in place of the 1/2" and its definately better.
 

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Has anyone hacked open an SV1k yet to see if this mod would apply?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
just bumping this so people can find it after reading jim brewers post on hp
 

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Another question for Doug

I recall that my 97 TLS had something that looks like your design from the factory "I think" but my 99 TLS does not. Know anything about that? Could it have anything to do with the HP differences from the 97's to the more recent models (Yeah, I know about the different ECU's). Tougher EPA laws, Suzuki might have changed something or maybe I'm just making this all up????:O
 

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