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Engine Removal

15K views 59 replies 15 participants last post by  Nekkedtl 
#1 ·
I ended up searching a few threads on engine removal and dos and donts etc, and in the end..i thought bugger it..ill do it as per the manual. So I ended up picking this TL up as it has spun an output shaft, and its cactus. I've had a spare engine for a while that I managed to put together learning all about it. First engine I did take apart and put it all together. the test will be if it works....
So I thought what better time to take it out, and put the other engine in....the aim is to turn it into a trackie....sold the gixxer trackie today..........which gave me some space...just go out tomorrow and get front wheel stand
So i started off with this....

with the aim to put this in...

read this....
 
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#2 ·
got all the tools i had lying around...got a friend to help...

began to take it all apart starting with fairings and tank. placed all screws and bolts etc into little marked bags, and then because this will take me a bit of time to do, pulled wires apart and labelled so as to know were they will go back in time..
 
#3 ·
got all bits taken off, and now up to removing the fluids....and called it a day...


its amazing when you take someone else bike apart.(mine now ) ..i had plasterers screws holding the under tail on, the under tail has been cut to fit a clear stop light in it, but has been joined together with a ton of black silicon.... I had wood screws holding indicators on, and some nut I dont know were from sitting in the battery tray....what i did find was that he has upgraded the lights and fitted some HID ballasts


so that will do for today.....
 
#5 ·
OK, so next was up after brekkie to tackle the fluids...first was to drain the oil...he said the output went when he was riding...this is all that came out of the engine...any wonder...

at least when it was starving, it wasnt hot...
 
#6 ·
next was off with the airbox..he had a pipecross air filter in there. the actuators that are held down with the screws and have those little bent tabs over them...all broken ..

more labelling. if i didnt do that..id be knackered trying to remember to get it all back together...

throttle cables, a bit dirty and grimy....these arent to bad to get out...

but the rev limited..that is a nightmare to get out...little jap hands are only going to fit in there...
 
#7 ·
ok, all marked and throttle bodies all removed...

now to remove the rear engine exhaust bolt....oh dear...

next the front header bolts..wasnt looking forward to this..Ive already busted a head a while ago putting on a yoshi...not fun..so lubricated, then heat, and again, then attempted to budge...no would not move at all...both of them...so i wasnt going to try and just left them and tackle when engine out.

took the exhaust apart and left the left hand side all connected.
so no exhaust left side and all marked..ready to tackle engine bolts
 
#8 ·
everything disconnected, all cleared. only thing holding on is the loose engine side bolts and that castle nut. Was going to make one as others have..took the nut off, then the large castle nut, then the main one...just gave few taps with screwdriver..couldn't wait and was fine and no damage...sorry no trying to get engine out pics
I ended up using a car jack and resting it on the oil filter, fitted nice, raised it to the front began to lift...then pulled all the bolts, apart from the rear one so it could rest on it, then lowered the jack....the engine came down. It does get stuck, and you have to wiggle it to the left and keep doing it...its the rear exhaust that gets stuck in the hole in the frame and can become stuck. ..in the end, it worked well...
next time, ill get a head stand as i couldn't wait as the shop was closed today...with no stand on front wheel...it really didnt have to drop a lot. then I lowered the rear stand, which lifted the rear out, then put the rear stand on again, and raised the bike and engine eased out...

here it is..with left exhaust still fitted...get to get those bolts out, but at least can get to them from the front instead of on my back....

and in the end..you end up with a pile of fkn spaghetti
 
#9 ·
so now ill tackle the header bolts at a later stage , or cant be stuffed and just cut the exhaust off at the engine...now got to look up ways to get this other engine in....thats going to be a bit harder i rekon....
 
#10 ·
You've been a busy boy Dave, nice write up. Does the new motor know it only needs first and second gears :laugh
 
#12 ·
That stud should come out. The head looks to be in fairly good nick. A few taps with a hammer to crack the crud in the threads plus a soak overnight in easing oil. As long as you use a sharp hex bit you should be ok. Might even be worth trying a torx bit in there if the hex slips.

And one more thing; if you can use an air spanner on it. Its like using an impact driver only a bit kinder.
 
#13 ·
oh i know...so with engine out...was able to flip it up and get a good look at it....it seems someone has had a go at it before, so dont feel confident...

not a good copy, but they are firmly in there....
 
#14 ·
feeling not confident, i went and purchased a good set of hex heads, as the ones i had were a bit on the wear side...I also purchased a can of loctite freeze and release. says it spray on rusted bolt, freezes it down to -43 deg, give few taps , twist etc and take time.....so now feeling confident...i heated it up to expand it, then threw the spray on, froze the bolt, sat down and had a ***...came back, few lite taps, heat up, freeze again, finished off ***....began slow process of turning..hex in and tightened and loosened, kept spraying, finially, could see some movement..:).stopped. slow process and double checked it wasn't twisting....nope..could see it was lifting out and the exhaust was a bit looser...had a rest, didn't want to push my luck....had another *** then came back to it....tap , spray, tap spray....was getting confident as it was finally coming out and turning....BANG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!guess fkn what!!!:banghead

yep got the left bolt out so far, and then it just snapped..cracked the fkn shits....tried again with right hand side...didn't even budge.....busted...good news is I got the exhaust off!..:laugh

dont like the look of those valves either..only noticed when put pic on....oh well....ill place it in the corner and save up and buy a good drill and drill them out..cant weld the right one, no head..the left one, yer, but, nup...
 
#19 ·
the flush broken one is no prob.

put a large nut over it and just weld onto what is there.

I do it all the time.

and if it snaps off then just get another nut and go again.

once they start to move then turn them back and forth to loosent the crap on the thread then wind them out.

never drill until you ABSOLUTELY have to.
 
#20 ·
fill the hole in the nut to the top with weld.

the heat soak is what makes the job successful

let the colour go out of the weld before attempting to undo them.
 
#21 ·
#23 ·
ignore it being low.

just push the rod or wire down to it.
 
#24 ·
well that will be the job at the end.....continued on with the removal...so triple off, and all the wiring gone....i sure hope I can put this back together...the forks have got a weep, but I have some gixer k4 to put on lying around....do that later...

then electrics and whatever else falls out
 
#28 ·
so I tried it with the rear wheel..set the engine up, and balanced engine etc....

it was a real prick...mind you i didnt have a jack to lift engine...so then I took the back wheel off...

then was able to pick the bike up and lower it over the engine...
was able to lift thru and pick up the engine, and at same time push the lower bolt through the bottom section, and it was in...

all those bits of timber and bars were used to rest it and balance it...
 
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