TLZone Forums banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
279 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all I hope I've posted this in the right place.
So I purchased this 97 TLS a week ago and have slowly been going through it, found a few things that worried me so decided to take a closer look.

First there were 2 20a fuses under the seat that had no markings as to what they powered, so I decide to trace them and find out, well one was power to the HID KIT that had been fitted which I've now removed, next the power lead went through a relay then separated and I eventually traced them to the coil packs that they powered, the OE connectors are still there, I now removed the regulator rectifier and found burnt out cables which pulled out from the crimp terminals.
Pliers Wood Gesture Finger Automotive tire


Automotive tire Electrical wiring Automotive exterior Gas Cable


Reading a few regular mods the charging system or regulator rectifier fails so I can only imagine this is a work around for that ??

If anyone has any advice or explanation for this I'd really appreciate it.
 

·
Super Moderator
1998 TLS; 2001 TLR; 200X TLRSF
Joined
·
4,699 Posts
Hey Neil,
Thanks for keeping another TLS on the road.

So far, from what you are describing, nothing seems too far out of sorts.

If I'm reading correctly, it sounds like the previous owner (or someone) installed three fairly common electrical mods.
Popularly known as:
  • The Headlight Relay Mod.
  • The Plus Mod.
  • The Charging Mod.

When they are done well, they usually improve the TL electrical system.

Here's why.....

.....
First there were 2 20a fuses under the seat that had no markings as to what they powered, so I decide to trace them and find out, well one was power to the HID KIT that had been fitted which I've now removed,
The OEM configuration does not use a relay to power the headlights. That was a mistake on Suzuki's end. :(
A relay can allow the high current supplied to the headlights to run directly from the battery to the lights without traversing numerous switch contacts and connector terminals in the loom. All of the extra connections in the current path add resistance to the circuit. In turn, the resistance robs voltage from the lights and heats up the loom.

Naturally, any aftermarket headlight should be powered through a relay, but even the OEM H4 Halogen bulbs will burn brighter and cause less damage to the loom when utilizing properly installed relays.
We call it the Headlight Relay Mod.


next the power lead went through a relay then separated and I eventually traced them to the coil packs that they powered, the OE connectors are still there,
The Plus Mod.
This mod has been recommended from the early days of the TL. Essentially, a relay is installed between the battery and coils, so that the current supplied to the coils has a straight shot from the battery. This bypasses all of the connections and switch contacts in the OEM wiring configuration. The wire that would normally power the ignition coils in the OEM setup, now activates the relay in the modified configuration. Thus, the coils get more voltage on the primary side, which means they generate a higher voltage on the secondary side. A higher voltage supplying the spark plug generally produces a stronger spark...better ignition....better combustion.....easier starting.....more power... etc.



I now removed the regulator rectifier and found burnt out cables which pulled out from the crimp terminals.

Reading a few regular mods the charging system or regulator rectifier fails so I can only imagine this is a work around for that ??
........
The Charging Mod.
The OEM battery charging circuit is not done well, IMO. I am a fan of the Charging Mod.

The burned stator connector you pictured may have been an attempt to install the Charging Mod, or just a replacement R/R in the OEM configuration, and the terminal crimping was poorly done. Difficult to say.

Again, the Charging Mod allows the TL charging system to benefit from a direct path for the charging current from the stator to the R/R to the battery. This allows a higher and more consistent charging voltage at the battery, which allows for better ignition, brighter lights, more reliable operation, and longer battery life.

The OEM charging circuit passes through connections and small gage wires that hinder the charging current, thus leaving the battery perpetually undercharged. This results in difficult starting and a weaker spark.

Please keep in mind, unless you have proper crimping tools for the terminals in question, the terminals on all of the aforementioned modifications should be soldered. Be sure not to use a corrosive flux and clean the connections well.

The connectors can also benefit from some form of protection against the elements (dielectric grease?), especially in a humid environment.

Let us know how your progress goes. (y)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
279 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Six5
Many thanks for your reply, After a an hour or so of searching on a popular search engine I concluded that the bike has indeed had the Plus Mod and the Headlight HID mod but this was not run through any relays but direct from the battery, I have removed this as it was in my opinion not done correctly, I have a standard light on its way and will look into the headlight relay MOD.
Im going to find a suitable R/R and fit it back in place there are a lot out there and some look a direct replacement, but I have my concerns as most are from China??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
279 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·

As I said lots about, Chinese items I guess, but if they work though it maybe worth a go?
 

·
Super Moderator
1998 TLS; 2001 TLR; 200X TLRSF
Joined
·
4,699 Posts
Neil,
If the regulator in the link you posted is an authentic Shindengen FH020AA, then you will be set, as they are Japanese made and very reliable.

However, the low-ish price makes me suspect it may not be real. There are Chinese copies on the market also, and they are not so great.

If you can confirm authenticity, buy it. 😁

I'll post a link later to help you identify the differences.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
279 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Well I’ve bought the one in the link, if it turns out to be chinese junk I will buy the genuine Japanese and go with that, at the very least I will have the termination kit and it will just be a case of swapping them over.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
279 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
The charge mod is a must and makes a HUGE difference. I just did it on an 01 S I picked up as I initially thought the regulator was bad as it wouldn't get over 12.5V at throttle. Did the charge mod and it hits almost 14V just off idle now. Need to do the headlight mod as the lights are dim and switch to brights very slowly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
100 Posts
The charge mod is a must and makes a HUGE difference. I just did it on an 01 S I picked up as I initially thought the regulator was bad as it wouldn't get over 12.5V at throttle. Did the charge mod and it hits almost 14V just off idle now. Need to do the headlight mod as the lights are dim and switch to brights very slowly.
hey guys do you know where I can find instructions on how to do these mods? I know I can probably find it somewhere, I just wanna make sure its the proper way to do it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
279 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
hey guys do you know where I can find instructions on how to do these mods? I know I can probably find it somewhere, I just wanna make sure its the proper way to do it.
You can find them in frequent tl mods section.

 

·
Super Moderator
1998 TLS; 2001 TLR; 200X TLRSF
Joined
·
4,699 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
279 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hey Neil,
Thanks for keeping another TLS on the road.

So far, from what you are describing, nothing seems too far out of sorts.

If I'm reading correctly, it sounds like the previous owner (or someone) installed three fairly common electrical mods.
Popularly known as:
  • The Headlight Relay Mod.
  • The Plus Mod.
  • The Charging Mod.

When they are done well, they usually improve the TL electrical system.

Here's why.....



The OEM configuration does not use a relay to power the headlights. That was a mistake on Suzuki's end. :(
A relay can allow the high current supplied to the headlights to run directly from the battery to the lights without traversing numerous switch contacts and connector terminals in the loom. All of the extra connections in the current path add resistance to the circuit. In turn, the resistance robs voltage from the lights and heats up the loom.

Naturally, any aftermarket headlight should be powered through a relay, but even the OEM H4 Halogen bulbs will burn brighter and cause less damage to the loom when utilizing properly installed relays.
We call it the Headlight Relay Mod.




The Plus Mod.
This mod has been recommended from the early days of the TL. Essentially, a relay is installed between the battery and coils, so that the current supplied to the coils has a straight shot from the battery. This bypasses all of the connections and switch contacts in the OEM wiring configuration. The wire that would normally power the ignition coils in the OEM setup, now activates the relay in the modified configuration. Thus, the coils get more voltage on the primary side, which means they generate a higher voltage on the secondary side. A higher voltage supplying the spark plug generally produces a stronger spark...better ignition....better combustion.....easier starting.....more power... etc.





The Charging Mod.
The OEM battery charging circuit is not done well, IMO. I am a fan of the Charging Mod.

The burned stator connector you pictured may have been an attempt to install the Charging Mod, or just a replacement R/R in the OEM configuration, and the terminal crimping was poorly done. Difficult to say.

Again, the Charging Mod allows the TL charging system to benefit from a direct path for the charging current from the stator to the R/R to the battery. This allows a higher and more consistent charging voltage at the battery, which allows for better ignition, brighter lights, more reliable operation, and longer battery life.

The OEM charging circuit passes through connections and small gage wires that hinder the charging current, thus leaving the battery perpetually undercharged. This results in difficult starting and a weaker spark.

Please keep in mind, unless you have proper crimping tools for the terminals in question, the terminals on all of the aforementioned modifications should be soldered. Be sure not to use a corrosive flux and clean the connections well.

The connectors can also benefit from some form of protection against the elements (dielectric grease?), especially in a humid environment.

Let us know how your progress goes. (y)

Hi there Six5,

So this week I have confirmed that the only MOD on the bike is the +MOD, I have removed the HID set up as it wasn't correct, plus I prefer the OE look, I will be doing the Headlight relay mod when my OE light turns up, I may look into LED lamps, I have also ordered a FH020aa R/R kit from a chap in the states, so that will go on in a new location as it was bolted to the undertray leaving it exposed to the elements and and stones dirt and grime etc the rear wheel could throw at it as the rear hugger is not present.
Many thanks for your help and Advice and the same goes to all the others that try to help and advise.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top