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I don't have that but by looking at the picture it wouldn't work either. Doesn't have a spot for the screw to screw out radially (ie against the outer pipe diameter) but instead it looks like it screws in along the length of the pipe.. My tlr is a 99 and the yosh system I bought within a month of buying the bike (both new) and I don't have those bands around the end caps of the pipe and no flat surface inside the outlet tip with holes to screw it to either. I also noticed from your first pic that you have the tips facing outwards, not sure if that's because of the size of your plate or not but they were designed to point inwards so when you're cruising the exhaust empties into the draft behind the bike. I think that's to help the exhaust exit and or to keep draftees from having as much of an advantage :D Not sure though.

You might be able to drill out the rivets on the end cap and do something more permanent for an installation of a DB killer or perhaps a mesh screened spark arrestor (spelling) would dampen it enough for you. Personally I've covered the first half of my perforated core with some muffler tape so my exhaust only hits the sound dampening on the second half of the can and it sounds nice but no where near as loud or obnoxious like most every harley davidson here in the states. I've drilled out and reriveted my cans probably half a dozen times over the years when I'd have a many houred session of repolishing them up again, just make sure to get stainless steel pop rivets as aluminum isn't strong and once the rivet is tight in there and you're stretching the pin almost ready to POP then pull away from the can and continue squeezing to avoid it popping and hitting the can again with the tip of the pop rivet gun and marring the surface (ask me how I know..) If you decide to take the can apart you should consider repacking it as that usually quiets the noise some as the other stuff is probably a decade old.

Good luck!!
What a nightmare job!! SS rivets into solid billet ally. I broke or blunted 100s of bits!!
 

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What a nightmare job!! SS rivets into solid billet ally. I broke or blunted 100s of bits!!
HUH? Broke drill bits trying to drill the rivets out? What are you using 2500 rpms? Use something like a 1/4" drill bit and go slow, maybe a little lube. Bob's your uncle.

Oh and stop buying crap drill bits!!! I spent about a $100 on a set from Irwin that goes from 1/16" to 1/2" in 1/64" increments.
 

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It was drilling down into the alloy billet that caused most of the breakages. You are absolutely right about shit drill bits though, I have now bought some better ones not made of soft cheese. (I don't really understand this 1/64" business though, I got some modern metric ones!:)
 

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That's what i got in the end. Oh my god, what a difference! It was like drilling into balsa wood!
 

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(I don't really understand this 1/64" business though, I got some modern metric ones!:)
Well, hmmn, I'll have to say SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) is a superior type of measurement. The fact that metric makes it too easy means less neural connections when working with metric vs SAE. :drool


Case in point, the Apollo spacecrafts that landed on the moon were made in the USA back in the 60's using SAE, no other country has yet to bring humans to the moon using the metric system.

Here's a little moon picture you have never seen before courtesy of SAE

scan0001.jpg
:sailor


All ribbing aside, I'd still like a metric set as well as maybe a numbered set so I can get the exact size needed when I need to tap some holes for projects. And it's easier to guess what size bolts are when all they use are 8 10 12 14 and 17 vs SAE where they'll use everything by the 1/16". Even more fun was when I work on a bastard vehicle that uses both SAE and Metric depending on where the specific item came from...
 

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How many DB does the rs3 produce at 4000-4500 rpm? Without DB killer and also with DB killer inserted? Shojkd be mandatory info really, would make it eadyer to decide if possible to use in traffic, or not
 

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No one seem to know decibel rating for Yoshi RS 3 with and without db killer.

Preety essential info these days with ever tightening sound criteria being applied by national vehicle testing centres and the police.

In Switzerland an 83 db limit at 50% of rated max engine revs.
 
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