What a nightmare job!! SS rivets into solid billet ally. I broke or blunted 100s of bits!!I don't have that but by looking at the picture it wouldn't work either. Doesn't have a spot for the screw to screw out radially (ie against the outer pipe diameter) but instead it looks like it screws in along the length of the pipe.. My tlr is a 99 and the yosh system I bought within a month of buying the bike (both new) and I don't have those bands around the end caps of the pipe and no flat surface inside the outlet tip with holes to screw it to either. I also noticed from your first pic that you have the tips facing outwards, not sure if that's because of the size of your plate or not but they were designed to point inwards so when you're cruising the exhaust empties into the draft behind the bike. I think that's to help the exhaust exit and or to keep draftees from having as much of an advantage Not sure though.
You might be able to drill out the rivets on the end cap and do something more permanent for an installation of a DB killer or perhaps a mesh screened spark arrestor (spelling) would dampen it enough for you. Personally I've covered the first half of my perforated core with some muffler tape so my exhaust only hits the sound dampening on the second half of the can and it sounds nice but no where near as loud or obnoxious like most every harley davidson here in the states. I've drilled out and reriveted my cans probably half a dozen times over the years when I'd have a many houred session of repolishing them up again, just make sure to get stainless steel pop rivets as aluminum isn't strong and once the rivet is tight in there and you're stretching the pin almost ready to POP then pull away from the can and continue squeezing to avoid it popping and hitting the can again with the tip of the pop rivet gun and marring the surface (ask me how I know..) If you decide to take the can apart you should consider repacking it as that usually quiets the noise some as the other stuff is probably a decade old.