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Discussion Starter #1
Been a member for some time, but haven't posted for some time.

I'm about to have my bike inspected by the DMV here in sweden (every 2 years this happens) and i've been lucky in my 2 last inspections with my exhaust-system where it passed with flying colors.
But to be on the safe side I bought this from my local MC-repairshop:


Just to see that it has 2 screws, top and bottom to put the db-killer in place inside the muffler, but to my surprise, I dont have those holes to put screws in. It's just a open hole.

My bike is from -98 and I can't come in contact with the guy whom I bought it from yeeeears ago who also bought this system.

So I think the db-killers I bought fits a newer model of the exhaust-system, but not mine.



Any ideas?

//sharpedge
 

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Thats for the newer Yosh cans. There are holes machined into the exhaust tip. If it's just for inspection, you can put a big gob of silicone in the tip to glue them in. Pull the baffles out as soon as you pass the inspection and round the corner.
 

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You need the newer style end-caps. Yoshi sells them directly and they aren't as expensive as you would think.
 

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That's really interesting. It fits the old-style oval cans?
 

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actls, got a part number or link to that item description? Just jams in?
 

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You need the newer style end-caps. Yoshi sells them directly and they aren't as expensive as you would think.
+1

Was failing track day noise tests on my -97 GSXR with full RS-3 fitted. Had same end cap as sharpedge. Re-packed my can and fitted new style end cap complete with baffle at the same time. No more noise issues. :)

I'll get some pic's.
 

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20130518_220259.jpg

Did try to add picture of baffle but I've apparently exceeded my quota :O Anyway it looks the same as the one sharpedge has bought.
 

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Thanks for the link to the Yosh one. I just repacked, but probably didn't use enough of the right stuff; too much coarse and fine steel wool and not enough fiberglass; will have to see how it sounds now that I made it a bit longer too. Might look pretty odd.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hello again...
sorry for the bump, still passed the DMV, but it would relax me to actually have some kind of baffle to my system.
I need some kind of insert baffle with a screw from the inside that just tightens against the inside of the pipe. Don't want to drill a hole through the exhaust unless it's a last resort thing.
I guess my full RS-3 system is from 2005 or some year older.
This seems to have just 1 screw and hopefully its screwed from the inside. Anyone where who has this exact model?
http://www.yoshimura-rd.com/images/RS3-INS-K.pdf

Cheers
Andreas
 

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I don't have that but by looking at the picture it wouldn't work either. Doesn't have a spot for the screw to screw out radially (ie against the outer pipe diameter) but instead it looks like it screws in along the length of the pipe.. My tlr is a 99 and the yosh system I bought within a month of buying the bike (both new) and I don't have those bands around the end caps of the pipe and no flat surface inside the outlet tip with holes to screw it to either. I also noticed from your first pic that you have the tips facing outwards, not sure if that's because of the size of your plate or not but they were designed to point inwards so when you're cruising the exhaust empties into the draft behind the bike. I think that's to help the exhaust exit and or to keep draftees from having as much of an advantage :D Not sure though.

You might be able to drill out the rivets on the end cap and do something more permanent for an installation of a DB killer or perhaps a mesh screened spark arrestor (spelling) would dampen it enough for you. Personally I've covered the first half of my perforated core with some muffler tape so my exhaust only hits the sound dampening on the second half of the can and it sounds nice but no where near as loud or obnoxious like most every harley davidson here in the states. I've drilled out and reriveted my cans probably half a dozen times over the years when I'd have a many houred session of repolishing them up again, just make sure to get stainless steel pop rivets as aluminum isn't strong and once the rivet is tight in there and you're stretching the pin almost ready to POP then pull away from the can and continue squeezing to avoid it popping and hitting the can again with the tip of the pop rivet gun and marring the surface (ask me how I know..) If you decide to take the can apart you should consider repacking it as that usually quiets the noise some as the other stuff is probably a decade old.

Good luck!!
 

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you can't use those ones with your pipes, no area to screw to.
Yours, like mine are race cans not street cans.
Look on ebay for a generic one that will fix as you want - they are about.

Don't agree with you Notabiker regarding ally rivets.
I re-pack all the time and use ally rivets, SS one's can be a right bugger to fix and lead to enlarged holes when removing them as you have to put much more pressure on the drill.
Same as you I have marked the cans when the pin breaks off but the technique I use is to do the work on a big wad of soft cloth and lift the end of the can up an inch or so.
So that when the pin breaks the can falls away from the gun but only falls an inch or so thus not damaging or scratching the thing.
 

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Time to resharpen your drill bits perhaps? Only problem I've ever had drilling rivets out is when they start to spin with the bit and then you have to use pliers or vice grips to hold the head while drilling. Should only require light pressure but yes SS will require the drill bit to drill but being as I spent time as a machinist I learned the art of sharpening drill bits on a bench grinder from 1/16" to larger than an inch and now I'm lazy and use a Drill Doctor 750 (normally $150 but one day on amazon for $20!!! so I haven't bought a bench grinder yet)

If sharpedge really really wants those db killers in then I suggest drilling the cans apart and having a welding shop fit some tabs to make them work, only issue is when welding aluminum it needs to be super clean and being a TL exhaust it's most likely sooty and the opposite of clean :D
 

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Time to resharpen your drill bits perhaps? :D

:laugh yea maybe, however putting SS rivets back in is just as much of a bastard! - quite some lever pressure needed to snap them off I find.
 

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:laugh yea maybe, however putting SS rivets back in is just as much of a bastard! - quite some lever pressure needed to snap them off I find.
BONUS!! Your friends will start calling you Ahhhnold, just lay off the "I'll be back" jokes. I've got the one with the pivoting head and it's probably over a foot long so it's easy. Used it to do some riveting on my snowmobile when attaching accessories many years ago, now those were RIVETS!! Probably 5/8" diameter heads and 3/16" pins, that hurt the hands after doing a dozen..
 
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