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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
whats people got and is there anyone on here i can get a set off??
pics welcome
 

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In the group buy there are "no cut sliders" with pics. Bout 15-16 have it on order.
 

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I have the cut ones... they came with the track plastics when i bought them. :laugh In addition i added a 1/4" steel can sliders after a low side and needing to replace chewed up cans. Not good for the girlish figure of the bike but its cheaper for me to go on a diet then replacing cans. :)



Jesse
 

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Aren't those no cut sliders for the tlr though, my gues is gixxerpuppy is on a S.

On that note I had a set of lsl frame sliders (on my S), I went down on the highway going about 70mph. They did there job, protected the fairings really well, I was able to buff out the worst of the scratches, now you have to be real up close to notice them. The only thing I did not like about them is the mount bolt bent, which screwed up the base of the slider and put a divit in my frame. Not a big deal but it does annoy me, knowing it did that.
 

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I went with R&G with a metal bar which replaces the engine mount bar hopefully will not need to try them out:)

 

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Aren't those no cut sliders for the tlr though, my gues is gixxerpuppy is on a S.
:laugh:blush oops... The "s" thing...
 

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R&G is/was distributed by ema-usa.com . Intuitive products are also very good and pretty UV resistant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ok R&G it is....funnily enough...ahem...ive just tried to bodge a set of sv 650 ones on...lets just say they dont fit and now wont fit...anything!!:))
 

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What do you want to protect?

The only thing that makes sense to protect on a TLS is the cooler and thus the only crashpad that makes (IMO) sense is the type pictured above.

I have these on my race bike and since I mounted them the cooler always survived. But be careful to not use a M10 bolt without cutting it in. Otherwise it is possible that the pad is torn out of the frame when you slide over something (curb). I always cut the bolts in about 1 to 1.5mm. Another important thing is that the bolt lenght is identical to the stock engine mounting bolts. I now always custom make them because all aftermarket pads I saw had wrong (too short) bolt lengths for at least one bolt.



Compare the bolt lengt with the crashed one:

(can't see the cut-in bolts!)

Greetings
Rufer
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
where are they from??
 

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How come no one will make a crash cage for the TLR/TLS? Freestyle Ingenuity doesn't even make one....would anyone be interested in one if they did? If so I may get a hold of them to see what it would cost to have them make one....
 

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WHy is it I have seen Frame Sliders mounted in three different place on the TL-S? I have a set and was wondering where to put them (There were no instructions). Now I am more confused as I have seen 3 different locations.
 

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rufer~~ In your experience what is a good over all length for sliders? Are the left and right sides different lengths?
 

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Rufer makes a really good point about cutting the bolts - at a hillclimb recently this bloke had a brand spanking Street Triple with sliders with bolts that hadn't been 'knicked'. He low-sided at speed, the slider hit an uneven patch of road and dug in. It bent the frame (****ed it) and flipped the bike. Slider on the other side dug in, bent the frame (well and truly ****ed), and flipped the bike again, smashing top of fgairing etc. The 2nd slider actually tore the frame. So, cut your bolts...:).
 

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rufer~~ In your experience what is a good over all length for sliders? Are the left and right sides different lengths?
The slider should be long enough to protect the radiator and short enough to not stick too far over the fairings (ideally not over the fairing --> less chance that it catches a curb etc).
I have to measure mine if you want to know a value.

The TLS is slightly asymetric (at least with my cooler :rolleyes ) but you can use the same length for both sides. But the bolt lengths differ.

Greetings
Rufer
 
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