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couple issues...

1040 Views 14 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  cyclecamper
ok, so ive been working on my subframe on my tls for a bit and im at a stand still.. well, the bike doesnt have a CDI. so i still have yet to hear it run... my rear shock is just about impossible to compress... and my clutch is un Godly stiff to pull.. BUT the bike is clean straight and only has 1800 miles on it... didnt know, if a god an r1 shock i know this has been done time and time again but im building a cruiser... its my first road bike... i want if i hit a bump the bike isnt going to be a skeleton.. my buddies b12 is super soft and i love how it rides after we fightered it. his clutch is also hydrolic so its a breeze to pull...

so im asking this... is it just the nature of the beast? stiff handling and hard clutch? or are there ways around these. im not buying a $1000 rear shock so the ohins and birbuto are out of the question... it sucks, ive dumped so much money into my bike id hate to get rid of it. but i just want something running and driving that i can just hack up and make look cool...
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the stiff rear is usually the spring being seized.

its common and often results in the fairing bracket breaking just below the instruments.( transmitted forces and cyclic loading)

remove the old rotary and check the movement of the rear.

A bitubo is the fix for this

or a S/H spring on a stick (SOAS) . soak this in a bucket of oil before installing it.

and a R1 shock or similar. I( I can supply a chinese shock the right length )

check the pivots and bearings too cos these can dry out and rust.


may have a welded centre ( good)

may have aftermarket springs (hmmmm!)

may have been shimmed by someone to cure slipping ( bad )

the lever can be a problem if its aftermarket ( heavy action)

the cable can be old ( heavy)

the worm can be rooted or missing balls ( heavy )


strip it all out.

weld the centre ( exchange Sam or me )

replace the cable .

replace the worm ( cheap !)

install std springs and welded centre.

5 spring clutches do NOT slip when set up properly.
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plates need to checked for warpage and dishing . place on a flat surface and press on one edge. it should remain flat on the surface

turn it over and test again.

use the search button there are a few threads on this subject.
damn, really did not want to keep having to dig into this bike... guess it comes with the territory with buying something sight unseen... so i should take the clutch out and check the springs? i havent rode the bike yet so im focusing on getting a CDI and riding it though the gears before im gunna start riping that stuff apart. i might try a new cable. whats a worm? and the pull is heavy, but it also feels grainular a little.. its not heavy but smooth its just... almost like stuck and its a stock lever
The worm is on the bottom of the cable.

you'll work it out.:)
Thinking about getting a motion pro cable. When I get some time to work on the bike this weekend I'm going to see if its the cable or if its internal. I just know I can't ride a bike with that heavy of a clutch
took apart something today... i dont have a picture of it... but it looks like a master slave cylinder almost.. it hooks directly to the clutch cable... took it apart and the ball bearings were all over the place, so im sure thats my problem... whats it called so i can ebay it?
took apart something today... i dont have a picture of it... but it looks like a master slave cylinder almost.. it hooks directly to the clutch cable... took it apart and the ball bearings were all over the place, so im sure thats my problem... whats it called so i can ebay it?

That is the mechanism commonly called the "worm drive." It is a mechanical "slave" of sorts...

See item #21 in the link.


p/n 23200-15500

edit: looks like the image didn't work.
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you dont get these from ebay.

buy a NEW one they are not expensive.

anything you get from ebay will be worn out.
The cable is the most common resistance problem.

I'd only get the Motion Pro cable if you needed it longer or shorter than stock. The stock cables are OK. But that's up to you. Motion Pro made the long ones I used with the longer Heli for my first thumbbrake master bars.

The ballsl usually fall out phwen you take it apart. Did you lose any? Is there a lot of wear?

Right now it's not smooth and has hard pull. So address that first. Then if it slips you deal with that next.
Sounds like the bike might have been exposed to a lot of water or saltwater or ridden in water a lot, I the SOAS is seized and so is the clutch cable and worm. You might want to replace the swingarm bearings and wheel bearings too.
ya i will most likely do that. i am in the middle of trying to figure out how to actually get my shock off.. and convert it to a r6 shock... i was looking at it and i dont see where you can even make a bracket to instal it?
I've got an extra R1 shock, same as the one used in the kits on ebay. You need one aluminum plate that bolts onto the inner flange that used to mount the rotary unit. The upper hole in that new plate lines up with the left upper subframe bolt, which you drill out. So a new longer bolt goes thru the frame and subframe, then the recall tank support, then the R1 shock, then the new plate. At the bottom it just bolts right in. The clearance between shock reservoir and tire or hugger is close if you have the axle full-forward.
instead of the stock spring on a stick you can use this good deal on a bitubo:

I have an extra one of these from an 04 R1 if you want to make me an offer:
If you use the bitubo, you don't really need anything else.
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