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Discussion Starter #1
I put in all new fiber plates (10 total) and noticed the presure plate now touch my Graves cover. The new plates are Barnetts and are thicker than my old used plates (originals) but my old plates never touched the clutch cover (and yes on the '01 TLR there are 10 plates).
Now what is my adjustment procedure considering this little turn of events?
Do I just bolt it up and begin bleeding the slave cylinder and it will right itself? Or do I need to add a (temporary) thin spacer to the inside of the Graves plate, bolt it up and bleed it then remove that spacer?

I know 10 plates belong in an '01 tlr, but am a bit puzzled with this development. I need to replace my old plates with the new plates but am not sure about this step.

Thanks in advance for all your help.

:bwtiller :cheers
 

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...the barnett plates don't have uniform thickness which may be causing part of your troubles... most people recommend sticking with stock plates and using barnett springs to fix any clutch problems...
 

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:stupid Measure the thickness of the barnett plates a compare them to stock specs. That may show you where the problem lies.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
bx-459,
crap-o-la way to put a negative impression in my mind about something I installed. you dirty rat:laugh

:bwtiller :cheers
 

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I bought the Hi Perf oem pack from Suzuki, no such problems with my Graves cover.
 

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not shure if it helps but i put all new barnett plates (steel and fiber-kevlar)springs in a 5 spring 98tls and it has worked fine for 30,000+miles. I have had some people say good things about the suzuki hi-po clutch not sure if its still out there and i think it was about $500.00 smacks
 

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not shure if it helps but i put all new barnett plates (steel and fiber-kevlar)springs in a 5 spring 98tls and it has worked fine for 30,000+miles. I have had some people say good things about the suzuki hi-po clutch not sure if its still out there and i think it was about $500.00 smacks
I ordered it from Bike bandit, they did say it had to ship from Japan, but it was only 110 dollars or so. My original was slipping a bit at 43k miles, though turns out it was the crappy blend oil I was using. went with ebc springs as well, wondering how my new shorty pazzo levers will work with such a pull :O
:)
 

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lemme addd i am about 20k into my full barnett clutch. no problems thus far. However, once while taking it apart to inspect everything, i put it back together to find it rubbed my clutch cover a little bit when out. I took it back apart, reassebled carefully, and everything has been fine ever since. Good luck with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
great feed back, I will just need to work with the plates a bit then. I will try assembling the whole stack off the bike then sliding it into place, maybe I will have better luck. Priviously I put it in a couple plates at a time just because it was easier to line up on the inner teeth.
 

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once again not shure if this helps but did you put that funny-looking spring washer in the right way? IIrc it could be easy to install that the wrong way.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yea, good looking out. I checked with the manuel and made sure they were put in correctly, but don't remember at this time what the direction was. I also made sure the friction plate with the larger ID went in first.
Because they were touching I put the original stack back in and installed busa springs. But because we have a few days off I am going to give it another go with the new stack and springs.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
10 plates VS. 9 plates

Well guys I am still having the same contact issue between the pressure plate and the graves clutch cover and I'm :confused ....

But then I got to thinking and studying my manuel then realized that my tiller is the '01 with the 10 plate configuration where as the other years have 9 plate stacks. Now lets say when graves made their run on these clutch covers they did not consider this little detail :idea. That little oversight would definately create the problems that I am encountering.

Those of you who have the graves clutch covers what year is your TL and how many fiber plates are in your stack :idea? Like I said my TLR is an '01 with 10 fiber plates.

Let me know bros because then I will need to decide how to compensate for this covers lack of depth, possibly a spacer or maybe call graves.

:bwtiller :cheers

By the way Happy Thanksgiving
 

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But then I got to thinking and studying my manuel then realized that my tiller is the '01 with the 10 plate configuration where as the other years have 9 plate stacks. Now lets say when graves made their run on these clutch covers they did not consider this little detail :idea. That little oversight would definately create the problems that I am encountering.
All TLR clutchs are the same physical unit.

This is the only pic i could find at short notice (Don't worry about the junk hanging off it)..You can see where the pressure plate outer edge is sitting in relation to the basket height wise.
It has 10 plates....... The inner hub and pressure plate have around a max 6 mm (1/4 inch ?) working range (lift/engagement) as long as they are lined up (the pressure plate would sit high otherwise.Easy to spot since the clutch plates would be loose in the drive tangs of the basket.
Plenty of Graves covers out there having no problem. :dowhat
There would have to be a major for the pressure plate to be hitting the cover given it lifts out around 3 mm more when you pull the clutch lever in.
The Barnetts would have to have a nutty install height,but even they would be limited by the clutch itself as far as drive on the various plates (engagement)..If the cover was ok with a OEM stack,what is the difference compared with the Barnett height.
You can see the the last friction is sitting around 3-4 mm into the basket in the pic.

 

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every time a see that spring retainer on TLDV8's clutch i start to drool
 

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Discussion Starter #17
good point DV8, and I agree billy, I just glanced at my stack as it sits assembled and if your photo is of a new stack I may see the difference. It looks like my outer most plate is closer to the outer edge of my basket. I am going to measure my stack (Barnetts and steels) as a whole and compare that with the manual.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok, I am out of ideas. I've re-confirmed everything from the push rods, both wave washer and seat, the 10 fiber and 9 friction plates and spinning the outer most fiber in the basket, and the pressure plate is lined up on the marks.
With the clutch plate OFF and the bike in gear I CAN pull the clutch in and roll the rear tire, though there is resistance. With the clutch plate ON in the same senario I am NOT able to pull the clutch in and the tire will NOT roll. I next backout the clutch cover bolts about an eigth of an inch and was able to get the clutch to work as if the plate were removed.

My barnett stack is thicker than the specs shown in the manual and the outer most plate does sit further out towards the edge of the basket than that shown in DV8's photo.

So does anyone have any ideas, is there a cover spacer I can purchase? Has someone made a 10 plate stack in to a 9 plate stack and if so was there slippage?
I don't know I am baffled.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I have found a solution. The Barnett fiber plates are much thicker (all 10 plates without the stock friction plates) than the stock fiber plates and I know some of this is due to the ware on the stock plates. So instead of using all 10 of the barnetts I installed 8 barnetts with 2 stockers and still the pressure plate contacted the clutch cover. So I switched out one more barnett with a stocker (now 7 new and 3 stockers) and no more contact, finally.
Here is the part that stinks, because the clutch cover gasket was pinched slightly I need a new one so I can fire it up. Man am I anxious about taking it out for a run.
I will be ordering a new starter relay, the clutch cover gasket and new oil cooler and radiator hoses on Monday.

Once I am running I will post up on the outcome. Again thanks to everyone for your input its always good to bounce ideas and opinions.

:bwtiller :cheers
 

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you can also swap thin for thick steel plates to get the stackup correct. thats what ive always done.
 
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