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Discussion Starter #1
I am not sure how to explain this but I will do my best in hopes that someone else has or has had the same symptoms and can help resolve the problem.

I can go out riding for an entire day and the bike runs great but occassionaly I will go to pass a car and the engine spools up but not so much as to hit the rev limiter. I can tell its the clutch slipping as the back end is breaking loose and it usually happens in the taller gears. I can not force this problem to happen, well I shouldnt say that, I can usually make it happen just after it happens on its own but I cant go out right now and force it to happen because it doesnt always do it.

as far as the bike and what I have checked.

I run non-synthetic 10W40, I am using a barnett racing clutch, I have four teeth up on the rear sprocket and the bike has dynoed at 130hp at the wheel. I have had this problem for a while now and in an attempt to resolve the issue I changed the oil, problem not resolved, I replaced the clutch with another barnett setup, problem not resolved, last season when I was racing I had a problem with the slave cylinder so I replaced that, recently thought that perhaps the replacement had a different tolerance and was keeping the clutch pushrod from extending all the way out so I put a couple small washers in between the the motor where the slave bolts up and the slave itself and thought I had it licked but went for a ride today (its cold out) and sure enough towards the end of my ride she started doing it again. I went riding by myself so I had a lot of time to think about the problem while I was riding and a couple years ago I replaced the clutch basket with a used one off eBay, I had to replace it because my friend was working on my clutch for me and broke one of the tangs off of it, it ran fine and had no problems but I was planning on racing and didnt want any imbalance in there so I replaced it, I am now wondering if the slots where the clutch plates go are all grooved up from the previous owner or hell maybe even myself, I am thinking of they are grooved maybe the plates are sticking and not sliding close tight like they should.

that is where I am at right now, any help would be appreciated, thanks
 

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...your problem might just be in the barnett disks...many just go with the barnett springs and stay with the OEM plates/disks as the barnetts are usually not evenly made...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I thought about that but I have been using barnett for such a long time (I usually go through one set a year) and this is the first I have had a problem.
 

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Barnett sucks! poor customer service too. I put 2 barnett sets into my friends bike all failed and slipped and sucked. 15k on stock discs hardly a sign of wear when I replaced them on my TLR. only reason i replaced them was because my trany imploded figered I could use an extra set
 

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ti11er said:
I can tell its the clutch slipping as the back end is breaking loose and it usually happens in the taller gears.
:confused The back end wont break loose on a slipping clutch. There is less drive.

Unless it's - crack the throttle - engine spins up to about 7000/8000 rpm - then it violently hooks up?

Mine used to do that, especially after just cruising for a while, didn't seem to do it when riding hard. I cahnged everything from the camset to the plates, only when I fitted Barnett springs was I 100% happy with the clutch (5 spring TLS one though).
 

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clutch

my tlr does the same thing,
just spools up a little then grips, only when in high gears and large
throttle openings.

arent tlrs supposed to have some sort of slipper clutch?
:confused
 

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That's the slipper doing it. Suzuki had our clutches working in reverse.

Minimum pressure at rest, cruising, no / light load and of course decelerating. The camset causes maximum pressure when forward torque is applied. The slip is the transition from minimum pressure to maximum pressure.

If the plates aren't too worn a set of aftermarket springs will fix it. (As long as the camset ramps aren't too worn too.)
 

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They have a back-tq limiting clutch which is sorta like a slipper, but it shouldn't slip under power at all, only under decel.

Do you have the barnett springs in your clutch?

I would take the clutch cover off and have a close look around. Measure the thickness of the plates and compare to the spec in the manual and check for grooves on both the inner and outer baskets. You can file/polish down minor grooving. Big groves and you need new baskets. Hard annodized 7075 baskets last a lot longer than stock ones in general, but I don't know if anyone makes them for the TL:O

good luck
 

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clutch

thanks, will look into springs was suspecting it was something to do with slipper.

bike has been sitting in shed for too long,
busted it out to go to phillip island and twenty minutes down the freeway
open her up to go around a cage and sliiip.

had the oil changed to mineral oil during the trip which helped a little
but never got any worse just when opening up after cruising.:banghead
 

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I put the springs in recently and it solved mine also. Mine would slip when I first started riding in the morning with EBC clutch plates.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
yeah the slipper clutch is for downshifting though to help elimiate wheel hop
 

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Discussion Starter #13
one of the only things I can think of is I use Motul oil and they recently changed the label on the oil I use and it now says mineral oil. I am not too oil savy I just no you cant use synthetic oil in a TLR, it defeats the back torque limiter and makes the shifting kinda clunky/slippy.
 

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I always ran full synthetic in mine...
 

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Unless it's - crack the throttle - engine spins up to about 7000/8000 rpm - then it violently hooks up?

.
Mine is doing this exactly. How hard is it to change out/overhaul the clutch with springs, plates, and the camset?? Ive never done a clutch on a bike (a few on a car) so im not famliar with this stuff.
 

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Thanks a bunch :) Looks like the plates arent hard to change either. Where did you get the springs from? local shop or ordered them online?
 

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I got my springs off N2Wheelies on here, he had a spare set for his TLS.
 

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Oh ok cool. Gotcha. Going to bleed it today to see if that helps at all. What kinda fluid? just standard dot 4 brake?
 

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Springs take about 10 minutes start to finish. If you still have stock springs that's probably all ya need. My wimpy 5-spring clutch has 48k miles on it. Only item that's been repalced has been the springs (@7k miles). Haven't touched it since except for new cables and worm drives (all weather commuting kills em in short order).

Yep, the clutch MC takes standard brake fluid, but you shouldn't have to mess with it to change springs I think.

have fun
 
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