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Discussion Starter #1
So this might seem like a rather weird issue, or maybe this is just the way these bikes are? But anyways when my TL1000R is up to temperature when I come to a stop while holding the clutch in I can almost never get it to find neutral, it always jumps to second or down to first if I try to hit neutral from second, this doesn't happen when the engine is cold. Bled the clutch system numerous times, rebuilt the clutch master cylinder. Still always gives me trouble, I never have trouble hitting neutral when I am coasting to a stop with the clutch pulled in. I did confirm that the clutch isn't fully releasing as I can feel the bike slightly pulling forward with clutch pulled in while in first, not enough to move the bike though, no fluid leakage from the slave cylinder or anything, engine oil is fresh and designed for wet clutch transmissions, any body have similar issues or know what could cause this? Maybe the pushrod from slave cylinder to clutch is worn down?
 

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Could be that the pushrod is the wrong size for the bike. Does your R have a hydraulic clutch or cable operated? If it was swapped to a cable clutch, then the pushrod length could be the issue. It still might be worth taking out and measuring to ensure it's the correct length anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
It does seem to be the factory hydraulic clutch system, I will pull the pushrod and measure it, do you know what the spec is supposed to be on that?

Edit:
Could it also be possible that the clutch hose is the issue? Maybe it's old and worn out and expanding slightly under pressure and not transferring full pressure to release the clutch?
 

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As Ricky says, someone might have played with the clutch push rod. You never know until you measure it. See Sam's post in the thread linked below for the OEM dimensions of the three different lengths.

Clutch push rod lengths.

If the hydraulic hose is original, it may be a little squishy by now. If so, it's due for an upgrade.

Also, have a look at the steel discs in the clutch as well as the fiber plates. Verify that the steel discs are not warped or 'dished,' because that could add 'drag' friction to the clutch pack when it should be disengaged. Also make sure they're in the proper order, and verify the orientation of the innermost ring. It is very narrow, but it has a bevel to it, and it's oriented in a specific direction. See the manual for the diagram. Section 3 deals with the clutch, if I recall.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you, I will check that out tomorrow, is it a common thing for the pushrod to wear down? Or is this more of a case where someone at sometime may have installed an incorrect length? Also the clutch seems to grab very close to the end of releasing the lever, does this indicate it is worn?
 

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Unlikely that the push rod is shorter due to wear. It is simply either the wrong length, or there are other issues affecting the clutch action.

As for the grab/release point, don't forget that you are dealing with a TLR hydraulic clutch, so some of the odd feel maybe due to the cam set (AKA clutch center).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I will pull the pushrod tomorrow and check it's length, warped plates could be another issue huh? Just came across checking that in the service manual, along with looking at the diagrams on how it operates, any other ideas on what to check while I have it opened up?
 

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Sorry I didn't answer your question, but Tony has it covered :), in a lot more detail and accuracy than I would have been able to provide!!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The warped plate would make sense as it only happens when the engine is hot, above 200°F on the gauge, which only seems to occur when sitting alot, it seems to hold a steady 185°F or so when moving
 
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