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Discussion Starter #1
Well it's time for a new clutch, but wth are all the different model designations:confused and how do I know which one is mine since the microfiche shows different part numbers? How hard is it to change a TL clutch? I've done plenty of clutches over the years, but the TL is slightly different then what I've done before. I've seen tons of slipping clutch threads on here, so I'm guessing this is gonna be an adventure(no way I'm paying a stealership to do it). I have plenty of tools and like to learn(about to download the manual). Is OEM better compared to EBC(not really a fan of aftermarket plates). Sorry for all the questions(and I know they all been asked before), but teach me please!:hail

Thank you
Dennis
 

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you dont need a clutch

you need to weld the centre
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Dang it, that's not the answer I was looking for, but I've seen that reply in many of the other threads. Who it does here in the US and why is this the "best answer"? My clutch fluid was nasty, so I bled it last weekend and changed my engine oil. Everything seemed fine, then friday night it started slipping just a little while rolling on the throttle at 70-80 mph(just a general guess at the speed). Rebled it again yesterday and noticed that I also must have overfilled it with my oil change too. I put in the amount on the side case I thought(had my baby girl riding around the yard, but WAS still paying attention). Sight glass is full. I put just a little over three quarts in it and checked the window. It was fine, now it's full and then some, with a slipping clutch. Although I sound moronic, I'm really not. Screw it. Let's mod this thing up and get it going. It's not doing me any good just sitting... Why is welding the clutch center the fix though?
 

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its an active centre

it ADDS pressure with load

it wears and does not work as it should

we weld them in the fully engaged position and it fixes all the problems

Sam and I do them but no-one in the US .

leave it with me a day or 2 and I'll see if I can change that.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-schematic/2#
You may have to refresh the page on the clutch schematic
We're talking about part number 5 correct? I understand what you're getting at now. I may just buy a new one if it's #5 and that way could send the old one off to be welded. Yeah it's not the cheapest way to do things, but it's summertime and I wanna ride(plus there is really nothing else that I like that's used and reasonably priced. RC-51's are to uncomfortable and a brand new bike isn't an option since I'm about to open up a business soon.). I'm sure customs would be a big hold up if I had to ship overseas(making it probably worth my time to just buy that part). Please check into this and see what you can figure out The Ring-In. It's very appreciated. Guess I'll be dirt biking a lot for a little while to get my two wheel fix.
Thanks
Dennis
 

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It's always a good idea to strip and clean the clutch slave cylinder . . They get bound up with chainlube and dirt . .
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That's part of what started this whole mess.... The fluid looked nasty and had dropped , so I knew something was going on.
 

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Flush all brake/clutch fluid every two years. Before it was a given I figured out the problem over ten years ago with the stupid design of the slipper ramps. I had a high school shop teacher tig weld my clutch center, We got it correct. Dumb luck I guess. I had a couple of ebay spares, so I figured what the heck. The way it was this bike wanted to kill me...
 
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