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king dork
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1,932 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm having problems with my Clutch MC on my TLR, and i'm debating finding another stock one, or upgrading to the likes of a brembo or along those lines. The question i have, is if an aftermarket clutch mc is used, how would i still use the clutch switch?
 

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Super Mod,
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3,568 Posts
I use a Nissin 5/8" M/C the switch would swap over since it's the same design just a larger bore. I didn't have a switch to begin with though I went the manual route (granted it's a race bike).

Just above the speedo...


More info on the 5/8" Nissin master here.
 

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1,087 Posts
I have to manually press my clutch switch with my finger to start bike.
 

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6,279 Posts
i presume you'd use a banjo bolt with a built in pressure switch like with an after-market brake master cylinder
 

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8,379 Posts
:stupid

heres mine:


I have a banjo pressure switch (I believe from goodridge) and it works just fine :thumbup
 

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its the 19x18 billet
 

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Premium Member
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7,697 Posts
I've got the Brock billet spring-post base so I have no finger-ramp torque-reactive spring-tightener mechanism, and I plan to run the longer Brock springs that go with it, which are meant for a Hayabusa. So I'd like to do the opposite of the guys who installed bigger-bore masters or big-bore radials for a short-throw quick shift, I'd like an effective lever and hydraulic combined ratio that keeps the lever easier to operate despite the stiffer springs, even if I have a bit more lever travel, I want mine to work like a smaller-bore master. I expect this clutch might be a bit difficult to slip from a stop in first, though I kept that dished washer inside the one narrow-band friction disc. Maybe I should even look into a big-bucks adjustable-ratio unit, where the lever pivot point can be changed.

Any feedback on how the smaller-bore units are working out is appreciated, a small-bore raidal might be just the perfect thing for my needs.
 
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