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Discussion Starter #1
I noticed my clutch reservoir was EMPTY today!! I looked at it because I noticed the clutch was not disengaging completely when the lever was squeezed to the handle.

I went and picked up some DOT 4 brake fluid to top off the reservoir, and then I proceeded to bleed any air from the clutch circuit I followed the procedures in the repair manual

-top off reservoir
-pump lever
-keep lever compressed
-loosen valve
-clutch lever touches hand grip
-close valve
-pump lever

Closed everything up, and topped off reservoir.

But, there is NO tension in my clutch lever.... none... I don't notice the fluid in the reservoir getting pulled into the clutch fluid line... I'm not sure what the problem is. But I sure can't drive it at all
 

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starting from the basic - did u notice any leaks?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Nope, no leaks... I just decided I'd bleed it out since I was topping off the fluid today... and I find it kinda weird that I COULD shift it, and there was DECENT resistance today, it just wasn't shifting as easily as it was last week... but now... NOTHING? The lever is just dead... wtf
 

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so no leaks found and the fluid stays in reservoir? or u cant find a leak and the reservoir is empty?

trying to understand if its the clutch inner works thats messed up or the hydro system that is shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It appears to be an issue with the hydraulics. The reservoir stays full when I top it off, and pumping the lever does not pull the fluid form the reservoir down into the clutch lines. It should definitely be pulling fluid out of the reservoir since I bled the line earlier... I just don't understand how the clutch was working earlier, and now I can't seem to get any hydraulic action
 

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u ever bleed any other types before now? are u sure u now have all the air out of the line? - if air is caught that could be causing ur issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ive bled brake lines in a car before... This is different, when I open the release valve, and put fluid in the reservoir, it should at least pull the fluid out of the reservoir, and pump it out the bottom outlet valve, but it doesn't. The fluid just stays in the reservoir.
 

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i did my front brake lines and found that pumping very fast and then releasing the bleeder quicker helped with moving the air out. i also would close the bleeder before the lever would hit my grip. it took a while to get all the air out....
 

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FWIW I was having a devil of a time trying to bleed my front lines after putting steel lines on. What I found through many pages of reading is you just have to keep doing it over and over and over then do it one more time. I strapped the brake lever to the bar and left it over night which seemed to get that last little bubble out. Now my fronts are dialed. I havent had to mess with the clutch yet but I would most likely try the same tactic bleed bleed bleed bleed you'll get it
 

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I agree with everyone else, as long as there are no leaks then you need to continue to bleed it. I regularly change my fluid and sometimes during that process I get air in the line which stinks because that makes the process that much longer to complete.

Fill the reservoir, pull the lever a few times, squeeze the lever all the way in, open the valve, close the valve and repeat. Get the pressure back then ride it in stop and go traffic, return home and do it again and you will get more air out. This is the same thing I do with my brakes and it works everytime.

You can do it

:bwtiller :cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm gonna go at it again tomorrow... And correct me if I'm going about this wrong... I plan to
1-top off the reservoir
2-pump the lever VIGIROUSLY
3-open the bleeder
- let out fluid/bubbles
4-close bleeder
5-pump lever some more
6-open bleeder, release air bubbles/fluid

I'm not sure how many times I will have to go through this process.. does anyone have an estimate on how long it took them to bleed air from their brake/clutch lines?

I cann say, when I open the bleeder, and pump the clutch lever, fluid does push out of the bleeder valve when I squeeze, so there is some hydraulic action at work.. I just can't seem to get fluid back into the lines... maybe I let too much air in when I initially opened up the valve... we'll see.. thanks so far
Mo-SPD said:
i did my front brake lines and found that pumping very fast and then releasing the bleeder quicker helped with moving the air out. i also would close the bleeder before the lever would hit my grip. it took a while to get all the air out....
 

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Sounds like the slave cylinder has died. Is there any evidence of a leak near it, way down near the gear shift arm on the engine? If so, it'd dead Jim :(
Mine died & emptied almost all the fluid, like overnight.

If the above is the case, bleeding it wont help :no
 

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PUMPING THE BRAKE LEVER FAST AND VIGORISLY WILL BREAK UP ALL THAT AIR INTO SMALL BUBBLES CAUSING MORE DIFFICULTY WHEN TRYING TO BLEED. IF THE CLUTCH IS NOT SUCKING FLUID FROM THE RESIVOUR, START THERE BY TAKEING IT OOF AND CLEANING IT OUT AND CHECK FOR ANY BLOCKAGE IN THE FEED TUBE TO THE CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER. AFTER THAT FILL IT UP AND TAPE THE LEVER DOWN AND OPEN UP THE BLEEDER, LET THAT SIT FOR AWHILE. THEN SLOWLY PUMP THE LEVER DOWN AND HOLD, THEN OPEN THE BLEEDER, CLOSE THE BLEEDER, RELEASE THE LEVER AND REPEAT UNTILL YOU FEEL LIKE CRYING. ITS A MAJOR PAIN SOMETIMES.
 

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Pick up a one man bleeder from your local auto parts store. Hook up the tube to the bleeder screw. Open the bleeder screw about 1/4 turn an then slowly pump your clutch lever. Repeat until fluid comes out into the bottle. If it doesn't start to come out after a couple of minutes , you have a problem some where else. A one man bleeder is only about five to ten dollars.
 
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another good way to get all the air out of the system is to put the caliper or in your case the clutch mechanism higher in the air than the resavoir, air bubbles are light and will try to rise up the lines to the highest part. Pretty much opposite of what you need them to do!!:banghead If all else fails go to sears and buy a mity vac brake bleeder!
 

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I go along with the comments on there being air still in the system, but all the discussion is about the effect and not the cause. The fluid has gone, so where?
You probably need a new slave cylinder rubber kit in the first instance. If it's not corroded too bad that is easy to install. If it is, a new cylinder is needed. FWIW, I reckon that cleaning around the front sprocket area every 2nd or 3rd service is worth the effort, as this is where a lot of the gunk comes from that causes the damage to the rubber.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
There was fluid in the lines, but who knows how long it has been since someone topped off the reservoir. I just bought the bike a couple of months ago, and I'm not sure how much (if any) fluid was in the reservoir at the time. The clutch was working fine through Sunday, but I noticed it was a TAD bit hard to slip it into neutral on Monday, so when I went to bleed the lines, I pumped the lever and got some fluid out. Now I can't seem to get fluid bck into the clutch circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'm fairly confident that I don't have any leaks, because there was fluid in the clutch lines until I decided to bleed it out yesterday, and it had decent resistance, but just not as easy to shift into neutral as it was when I first picked it up a couple months ago. Maybe I screwed up and opened the bleeder valve too far, and let a bunch of air in the line when I was squeezing the lever... The repair manual didn't outline the process very clearly... I may just go pick up a mity kit, or the Actron brake bleeding kit and slowly purge the whole circuit and get new fluid all throughout.
saltcityTLR said:
Pick up a one man bleeder from your local auto parts store. Hook up the tube to the bleeder screw. Open the bleeder screw about 1/4 turn an then slowly pump your clutch lever. Repeat until fluid comes out into the bottle. If it doesn't start to come out after a couple of minutes , you have a problem some where else. A one man bleeder is only about five to ten dollars.
 

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TWALK said:
The repair manual didn't outline the process very clearly... I may just go pick up a mity kit, or the Actron brake bleeding kit and slowly purge the whole circuit and get new fluid all throughout.
MityVac is a good way, or a true vaccum/pressure bleeder setup.

If you want to try again before you leave to go get those, try this:

1: Top off reservoir.
2: Attatch a wrench and clear vynil tube to the bleeder.
3: Open bleeder, squeeze lever and HOLD, close bleeder.
4: Repeat step 3 until you either A:need to top off the reservoir or B:get clean fluid thru.

Done!

I work on my own bikes and am an ASE/Audi certified mechanic, so, trust me, if that doesn't work something's broken [seal problem in master cyl maybe] or plugged [ports between master cyl and reservoir]...

AS to where the fluid went, like the others said, it had to go somewhere. Check your slave after you get the system bled: once you've got lever pressure, HOLD it and look for leaks.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
ALL IS WELL
I picked up a bleeder kit (Actron) and it worked great.. there was a LOT of air in my clutch line, but everything is good to go now. Thanks for all the input
 
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