OK, so this bike is starting to piss me off!!:banghead:banghead
First off, 99 TLR, receipts from previous owner for new clutch kit from EBC. Bike ran fine with exception of the usual learching in first gear.
I changed the springs with Barnetts, it got worse.
I read up and figured it had to be the drive/driven cams. Replaced them, put the Barnett springs in it and put it back together. Went by the shop manual out of the vault.
Get on the bike, pull the clutch handle back and it feels somewhat stiffer than before. Put it in 1st gear(made a real light gear grind noise), let out the clutch and it grabs for a split second and then nothing. Doesn't move while fully engaged?:O
Oil level is fine, oiled the disks, lined up the marks on the clutch bucket to the others, the cam drivers are lined up.:O:O
I reckon the dots on the basket and pressure plate aren't lined up. The clutch not engaging is the usual symptom of it. The last plate in also needs to be offset from the rest. There are two places in the service manual you need to look to get all the info you need to reassemble the clutch properly. One is the engine section and the other the clutch section.
If all is properly assembled remove the new plates and measure them. Others have found aftermarket plates to be undersized from new and wouldn't work properly.
OK.... so I finally got it to hook up, kind of. Thanks to all that responded.
The issue I was having with it not grabbing was I aligned the cage to the pressure plate with the casting mark, not the punch mark..haha.
Thanks TLDV8
But I'm back to sqaure one of what I was trying to fix... the learchig in 1st gear. I've replaced the springs with Barnett's, the drive/driven cams have been replaced. Everything is aligned to the factory manual.
Does anybody else have any ideas before I take it to a shop and have them rape me of my money? I run AmsOil 10W40 Synthetic, could that be the issue?
Really perplexed by this, I just want to ride it!!!
You could take the cover off again to see how much lift is at pressure plate wih the clutch lever in.
I have no practical experiance with the TLR hydraulic clutch set up but it might be worth bleeding the system.
Are the two rings ( one flat,one cupped belville stye) with the first plate in ?
The clutch engages fine and starts moving the bike. Pulls very smoothly, until I hit about 4000rpm and then it feels like the clutch slips and grabs. The bike learches back and forward. The slip last less than a second. If you continue revving it up, it will do the same at about 4500, 5000, etc. If I shift it into 2nd gear or above, it stops and pulls just fine. No slipping feel at all.
:confused
I think you should get a shop to ride it cos its quite possible its not the clutch but the gear jumping in and out.
if it was just the clutch it would happen in every gear.
you say the clutch torque ramp has been replaced. check this first, some people weld them up (I did).
am experienced mechanic will know the difference.
I think you should get a shop to ride it cos its quite possible its not the clutch but the gear jumping in and out.
if it was just the clutch it would happen in every gear.
you say the clutch torque ramp has been replaced. check this first, some people weld them up (I did).
am experienced mechanic will know the difference
Sounds more like a gearbox problem rather than a clutch problem to me now.
It wouldn't limit itself to 1st gear only, and most clutch slip due to ramps not working properly happens in the higher gears and at higher RPM, very rarely would a hub problem show up in 1st.
i thought i had barnett springs in it but looked at the packet and they are EBC, got some barnett springs coming now, will look up smoothing and polishing the cams too, not sure what this means? sorting any excessive grooves in the basket??
definitely smooth the notches in the basket. use a flat file and hold it on the job with 2 hands . go slowly and keep the file teeth clean.
the bottoms of the grooves will be the same depth all round. only take off the minimum. getting it wrong will result in the plates digging into one finger more than another and making a new groove
smooth the cam surfaces
use a spare stone to true up the grinder wheel face
practice the motion required with the gringer switched off.
Because after its done, never will your TL clutch slip then grab and make you do a wheelie (when you dont expect it ) ever again this is caused by the ramp getting stuck and not clamping correctly see Stu's post about reprofiling above
mine looks a bit worn, this has to be the cause, what do you suggest? reprofile or weld up?
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