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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Trying to finish modding my air box and all I have left to do is to patch the holes left by the flapper actuators. I could come up with dozens of ways to half-ass it, but kept holding off thinking I'd figure out a more elegant solution.

Last night at AutoZone, I picked up two packages of black plastic GM Hood Retainers, for $3.99 per pack. Doorman part number 963-065. They are about 3/8" larger in diameter than the holes, and have one of those push-in type plastic posts molded in on the inside. Using a 1/4" drill bit, I drilled out the post on two of the retainers, starting the drill on the top side. This effectively removes the post and leaves a nice 1/4" hole. So, you take one retainer and put it over the top of the air box hole, and take a drilled out retainer and place over the bottom of the air box hole, and press them together.

You're have two left over retainers, but what the heck?

I'm guessing you'd still want to use a bit of epoxy to assure a seal, or at least some RTV or something. There are cheaper ways to do it, but this method sure looks clean!

-Matt





 

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Nicely done :thumbup beats the metal washers/bolts/silicone I used :)
 

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That looks really good! I just pulled the plastic flappers off and left the actuators in place with a vacuum cap on each.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I was doing Joe's air box mod. Removing the flappers, actuators and hoses and cutting the filter base.


-Matt
 

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I plastic-welded some nice new corners onto the airbox lid. Not worth the effort, and doesn't look very good. But it did increase the airbox volume a little bit.
 

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would I be benefitting myself any by just removing the flappers and not cutting up the airbox? I dont have a TRE or PC, but the PO had the vacuum solenoids unhooked anyways, so why not take them out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah, I think you would. I could absolutely feel the flappers open in my bike. Me and a friend of mine both commented that the bike was really lethargic until 4k. Turns out that's where the vacuum gets high enough to open the flappers.

If the vacuum actuators are still in there, and the so are the flappers, and there is no vacuum going to the actuators, you're going to notice a huge difference. I'm guessing the PO took out the flappers and left the actuators in there. In which case, you won't notice any difference, IMO.

-Matt
 

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the flappers are still there, albeit loose and flapping however they want. With only slip ons and a stock bike, should I just hook up the actuators to work like they should or should I remove the flappers altogether? would open flappers at idle, and below 4k rpm hurt performance? there has to be a reason suzuki actuated them off of vacuum and didnt just leave them opened up.

On a side note, should I just go ahead and do the air box mod to its fullest? I have no pc or tre...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If they're in there and the actuators are still in there without attached vacuum, the flappers should be closed, unless you've been into it to unhook them. If not, you're running rich, and probably loosing a BUNCH go-go.

If you don't want to remove the actuators, I'd definitely go in and at least snap out the flappers. Real easy to do. With those plastic trim bits I posted about, removing the actuators and sealing the holes really isn't too bad.

And with a sharp utility knife, trimming the airbox holder is *really* easy. Just score along the corner where you want to cut, and then go back again and the second pass with the utility knife just cuts right through the plastic. I was expecting it to put up a much harder fight.

-Matt
 

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dang, that looks pretty sexy. I was able to find nice fender washers and sandwich it all together nicely.

the mod is often refered to as "ram air". basically the air enters the bottom half of the air box down the tube intakes located on either side of the nose plastics. Air then goes up through the flappers (when they open) and is then sucked down through the filter and into the intake plenum (center part of the lower half of the air box)

what Ram Air does is remove the parts of the plate that block the air from comming straight in to the top of the filter. this is accomplished by removing not only the flapper venturi and flappers, as well as the actuators, but also a bit of the devision plate between the bottom and the top halves of the air box.

this a straigh, unrestricted path down the intake tubes, up to the top of the air box and down through the filter. It is postualted that this also produces "boost" as air pressure in the intake plenum will be increased due to air being "rammed" down the intakes when the bike is at speed.

the only draw back I can see is that water may find a way into the intake... but this would take a driving rain storm, and extream speed to get water down the intake tubes, turn 90', then go up (turn another 90') and finally get down through the filter.
 

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gorgeous explanation. thanks rifleman. So I assume after that writeup that I dont require more fuel with this mod, and that it just makes what Im working with now more efficient.
 

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The problem as I see it, is that even on a dyno, the bike doesn't see the Ram Air boost because the bike isn't moving, so it's damn near impossible to find out if there is any "lean out" caused by the boost.

two things, one, factory maps are notoriously rich, or on the rich side so even if you are leaning things out because of the boost, you have some space to go before you will be too lean.

secondly, the bike has sensors on it that can and do adjust the mix (I think) so even if the boost is leaning things out, the sensors are making fine adjustments.

finally the second half of the equ. is exhaust, if you don't open up the exhaust with a full system, getting alot more air through the bike is difficult... so leaning out the mix alot is difficult.

the up shot is that I did the "ram air" mod two years ago and haven't had a problem that can be assigned to a lean problem caused by the mod.

no real way to test it, but what the hey, it was a fun mod. Dropped half a pound from the actuators and flappers (maybe). I would have to find a better way to seal the intake tubes and the air box to the pass through holes in the frame. My foam rubber on the air box is all crumpled so I'm sure if there is any boost, i'm loosing it...

so i'm going even slower then normal... big woop *S*
 
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