TLZone Forums banner

Checking tappet clearance: how to remove cover to turn crank??

1362 Views 8 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Pat Man TLR
Having read TLR Junkie's excellent write-up on checking tappet clearance, I convinced myself I could do it; it seemed straight forward enough. But I'm stuck. I can get the cover to budge that will give me access to the bolt that will allow me to turn the crank. (I've borrowed the image from TLR Junkie's post).

Auto part Wheel

I've oiled it, tapped it with a mallet, threatened it, plead with it; nothing. Won't budge. And I'm starting to round the corners...I thought maybe I could just put the transmission in gear and turn the back wheel...not as easy as I thought. Any thoughts?
See less See more
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
you'll destroy it getting it out

put the bike in 6th and turn the wheel
Cheers Stu, I'll try that.
And the I really just push it down (once its bolts are undone) enough to get it out of the way? It hard to keep the lower rad support from gouging the fins. Is it different on the TLR?
I took mine off - it doesn't take long and they're too expensive to risk damaging:O
Van is doing a group buy for new plugs
I took mine off - it doesn't take long and they're too expensive to risk damaging:O
Not necessarily as bad as it might be...

Cheaper if you buy via US.

Got one of these a few months back. All good so far.
I've got one of those for sale:laugh. I assumed he was talking about an S - I'm pretty sure TLRJunkies thread was on an R . Untuned asked if they were different
Is it different on the TLR?

I bought an S radiator a couple of years ago - OE was quoted at 1600NZD. I got one absolutely IDENTICLE, except for the word DENSO stamped on it for 500NZD.

You can buy a lot of beer and fuel with $500;)
Thanks for all the help! Turning the back wheel was the easiest solution!

I did end up removing the radiator (turned out to be easier than I expected); how do I bleed the air out of it now? The manual was not very clear.
On my TLR I fill the rad then replace the cap, then go to the coolant pump housing there is a bleed screw which I undo and let the air out and then put it back in, make sure you don't strip it, torque it to the require torque specs, if you don't have one get a paint marker and put a mark on the screw and housing so when you tighten it back up you can line it back up to the same place.

The water pump is located on the right side and the bolt is located on the top portion of it.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.