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The TL will not hold a charge. The battery is less than a year old and this past weekend we pulled it & broght it to have it tested & the battery itself is fine. Before we take it in somewhere any ideas as to what to look for?
 

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had a similar problem on my tiller turned out to be the plug for the rectifier under the seat all corroded.
 

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Check the regulator first. Usually thats the problem. I think one easy test is if you have the bike running and the regulator gets fairly hot then something is wrong. If it's not the regulator then check the stator.
 

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Have the same problem here at this time, easy things first like connectors, fractured fuse link. Thought my RR ( Regulator Rectifier ) was the problem, not so as tested by substitution. Will 3 phase scope the stator though i am sure one of the fields has a shorted turn. BTW head light on motor idling current consumption is around 14Amps draw from the RR and it still gets hot from the shunt current, the more the load the less heat will be produced in the regulator basicly.
HTH
 

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Do the chuck mod @ the bottom of my sig.
 

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Most likely a bad connection somewhere and possibly a bad battery (I know you said it was good, but you wouldn't be the first, bats can be weird....).


good luck
 

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I agree.

:O
Most likely a bad connection somewhere and possibly a bad battery (I know you said it was good, but you wouldn't be the first, bats can be weird....).


good luck
 

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FWIW, Do not recommend bypassing fault current limiter ie Fuse. Fire Hazard, at the moment all you have is a battery not charging, rather than the bike burning down to the ground.

The stator problem looks like 14,2V at the battery terminals at idle and drops to 13,6-8V as its reved. The battery has been cold crank sag tested at 10.8V not great but does start the bike when externaly charged, Linda if you fault is like mine the battery after being properly load tested will be ok. Easy to check yourself by external charge then see if the bike starts up ok. Just a few guidlines as you see fit to make use of.
HTH
 

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I recently went through this. In my case it was a bad Regulater/Rectifier. If you need a new Regulater/Rectifier , I highly recommend a new one from Electrosport. It charges at 13.8 at all RPM's , not just at idle like the OEM one.:yes
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Lots of helpful ideas. We will be staring with the rectifier & going from there. As always thanks for all of you helpfull input. we'll keep you posted.:)
 

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Hope you get it sorted. BTW 13.8VDC at the battery terminals measured with a known good meter is too low for AGM batteries at normal riding rpm. That is why Shindengen run output volts from 14,2Vdc to 15VDC depending on bike or PWC or Snowmobile and the outside temperature.

From what i have discovered so far the basic TLR RR is a 35Amp rated shunt device. Like Roadrash i am very reluctant to purchase a new RR from the dealer or the stator i need as well. Used items may well be in a condition similar to the one i took off. Not a cheap problem these RR, stator and battery issues.
 

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So you do as I did & fuse it.

:)
FWIW, Do not recommend bypassing fault current limiter ie Fuse. Fire Hazard, at the moment all you have is a battery not charging, rather than the bike burning down to the ground.

The stator problem looks like 14,2V at the battery terminals at idle and drops to 13,6-8V as its reved. The battery has been cold crank sag tested at 10.8V not great but does start the bike when externaly charged, Linda if you fault is like mine the battery after being properly load tested will be ok. Easy to check yourself by external charge then see if the bike starts up ok. Just a few guidlines as you see fit to make use of.
HTH
 
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