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Discussion Starter #1
Iv'e just put a brand new battery in myTLR as the old battery got fryed.
I tested the charge ouytput as per the manual and i got some big readings which were round 16.3 volts and rising. I guess I need to test the rectifier, the only problem is that someone has hard wired it with different coloured wires , and there are no plugs / couplings, so the manuals discription on how to test the rectifier don't help. I would be greatful for any sugestions.
 

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It won't be the rectifier it will be the regulator not limiting the output.
 

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They're combined in the one unit, the rectifier / regulator - R/R

At 16+V out, I don't think it needs testing.

The tests in the manual don't work, even on a perfectly good new one. They ballsed it up.

But the voltage tests are correct. Stator output at 5000rpm etc. The regulator should still pull it back to within spec though even is it was too high.

I'd junk it for another.
 

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If you do some looking you can get new "universal" rec/reg for $50 bucks or so. I have used them on another bike and it worked well, can't say for sure on the TL but it should work the same.

You can get one off a Honda and put it an a Yamaha and it will work just fine also, stick to units off a bigger bike and they should be rated similar and work just fine.
 

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Nah, you can't it's a sealed non serviceable unit.
 

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Hello Lads,
Been doing a LOT of work with ther TLR charging system. Cannot remember seeing a high output volts from an internal sensed RR, every one i have seen has been low volts, though yours may well be high as you say. It is very hard to blow the shunt reg SCR's as the stator output power is governed my the magnetic air gap of the flywheel to stator, gooble de gook for the AC voltage collapses as the shunt action happens. What measuring equipment did you use to test for battery terminal volts? Had a lot of mis readings from many types of voltmeters on motorcycle application.

Will paste up what i did to make a double RR for my TLR, it is in the aussie form.

Regards John
 

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Upside Down Super Mod,
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That's not an original R/R.

I've heard of R/R's frying batteries when outputting too much voltage because they've failed.

17V is waytoo high. :(
 

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Oh, the three Yellows would be the stator output. Should be around 70VAC between them at 5000 rpm from memory.

That's 70V between 1-2, 1-3, 2-3.

The two greens will be the 0V / Ground, and the two reds will be the +12-14VDC out. They'd be in parallel i.e both the reds are the same and both the greens are the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
cheers

Year I figgered it wasn't the origional regulator/rectifier, so do you reckon that it's just the R/R thats stuffed or could there be something else thats contributing to the big voltage.
 

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all the voltage goes thru that . It comes in at huge volts and gets rectified , its regulated and fed to the battery. its stuffed , replace it , fill with fuel , start engine , ride into sunset. :banana
 

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Stu's summed it up pretty well :thumbup
 

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send us a postcard :laugh
 

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Still not convinced, use that DMM on a known car charging system see if the Volts are 14,2V at battery terminals motor running moderate rpm ie 2000RPM or so. Some DMM's with low internal battery volts read high or non linear. If that 13.1 or so reading is on cold motor then it is reading high on the meter not the battery.

The 17+ reading is way too high if real. Most RR's fall into 25A and 35amp capacity, with slight variation to output volts between 14,2 and 14,7V. There are FET RR's rated at 50A capcity and use a different shunt regulation technique. It matters little what Shindengen RR you use as long as it is 35A rated for the TLR and runs the voltage sense circuit to yield 14,2 at Battery terminals on moderate rpm. There is no unique RR for the TLR only what the designer could buy at the time, ie you can use an Electrex RR which has a physical difference in package and lead length, connector type, however the actual hybrid ceramic board is the same ie 35Amp and slight adjustement to shunt reg thresehold laser trimed on the substrate.

HTH John
 

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Discussion Starter #17
car battery readings

12.4v standing, 14.4v engine running at 2000 - 3000 rpm. dosen't exceed the14.4 volts
 

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OK Powerband, the DMM is reading correctly in all probablity, as the car readings are what i would expect on the TL as well, fully charged battery of course. Your charging system is operating too high a voltage on the TL as you stated at the start. What are you going to do for an RR, notice your in NZ, i am in AU, can suggest a possible replacement for your RR on the TL if you decide not to go with factory. John
 

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Discussion Starter #19
suggestions appreciated

It dosen't have a factory one in it at present anyway, any suggestions would be much apreciated as long as the wiring is the same. cheers
 
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