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That was measuring the three prong connector that would plug into the r/r. Sounded kinda odd to me also. I double checked that it was Ac voltage. I'll double check it after while just in case.
With it conected or disconnected? Open-circuit the AC voltage goes pretty high, but with the regulator connected it's clamped down more.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Well I checked the Ac voltage again and I got 23-25v Ac. I now remember when I tested this am the bike wouldn't stay running with the stator disconnected so I reconnected it and got my incorrect reading.
 

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What do y'all think, bad r/r?
That is what your test results are pointing toward....


What do you see when you test the diode junctions in the R/R with your meter?

These values are from a known good OEM R/R.




You will see different values if the Ohm meter mode is used as opposed to the Diode Test mode. Don't confuse the two.
 

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So then, in order to cure that issue, he suggested the Headlight Relay Mod, which allows the headlights to pull their current directly from the battery, thus giving the starter relay connector some relief.
Just to add to what Six5 has said.

Since all the bikes power comes from the R/R moving any electrical load to the battery will increase the load on the starter relay connections as this is the only way an oem harness can get current to the battery terminals. The only load that should be on the starter relay is that used to recharge the battery after it has been used to start the bike. Of course that poor little connector has to carry all electrical loads until the engine starts and the R/R can take over.

Before you add any load to the battery I would make sure you have a mod in place to allow extra current to get from the R/R to the battery without going through the oem starter relay connector. Just melted mine proving this! :banghead
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Wow never heard of testing a r/r! Looks like I have more work ahead of me. I gotta look into these starter relay mods!!
 
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