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Discussion Starter #1
Checked the completely stock charging system this am before doing the mod and it read 12.90v.
I ran all the wires, used a big gauge red wire and installed an inline fuse with a 30amp fuse. Install was extremely easy. Connected the red wires to the red wires from the plug and black to black etc using insulated connectors. wires are connected correctly on the battery.

I had the volt meter hooked up when I first started the bike and immediately I saw 13.?? Volts immediately then went to 14.?? Volts then dropped down to 12.3.

Checked the fuse (good) checked the wiring (good) took ohm meter and checked to see if the hot wires had possibly grounded to frame (everything good). Checked the temp of the reg/rec and it was at 160 degrees!

So now I plugged the factory plug back in and disconnected the mod wires. Charging system (factory) now reads 12.30v?

What the heck is going on here???!!!!! Was something of the charging system not up to par for this mod?
 

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Nothing is wrong you have to do the headlight cut and headlight relay mod as well it help to dump the R/R when the battery is charge. Look in the mod section to find how to do it.
 

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you can but this r/r upgrade came out after charge mod & the both mods together works very very well our oem r/r are crap shunt type the upgrade are mosfet type
 

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Depends on how you define "good to go"...heck the stock setup works. Headlight relays and coil relays are probably the most important. Then I'd suggest the regulator upgrade. Then there is some concern about the stock wiring and connectors for charging and starting. Then maybe a Shorai or other battery upgrade. Good luck on all your endeavors.
 

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Unless your R/R is shot I wouldn't go get another one, the only thing you should be buying is the 3 X 30 amp relay with holder and 2 X 30 amps inline fuse holder, take the front nose piece off and undo the headlight connector or cut the wire and re-hook the new wires to the relay as per the mod and hook the connector together and to the relay it will take time but if done well you will have no problem, then run the new power wire to the battery and another to a good spot on the frame, I use a threaded hole on the right side of the frame just behind the rad by the over flow bottle, all my accessary ground goes to this point to keep the battery terminal to just the one ground, I also install a separate fuse box for all the power supply like heated vest, heated grips, digital volt meter, Scorpio Alarm, LED lights and a cigarette lighter to power GPS, Camera or anything I need to use it for. I got my relays and holder from an auto junk yard; you could also get them from any auto parts store like auto zone and such for a few more dollars. I did mine for under $5 dollars. I haven’t had any issues with it at all.
 

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Checked the completely stock charging system this am before doing the mod and it read 12.90v.
.....
....when I first started the bike and immediately I saw 13.?? Volts immediately then went to 14.?? Volts then dropped down to 12.3.

.....Checked the temp of the reg/rec and it was at 160 degrees!

So now I plugged the factory plug back in and disconnected the mod wires. Charging system (factory) now reads 12.30v?

What the heck is going on here???!!!!! ....?
Based on the voltages you are seeing and the temperature of the R/R, my guess is that the R/R has died. When the output voltage quickly dropped from 14v to 12.3v, that is a good indication that something is heating up and giving up. :( However, you should also perform the stator test in the links posted previously, and measure it's output to be certain that it also has not failed.

With that said, the OEM R/R is up to the task of charging the battery and maintaining a good system voltage - when it is working properly. The real problem is the wiring and connectors. That's the primary purpose of the Charging Mod - it bypasses the weak OEM charging circuit (wires). My TLS has been running (and charging) fine with the OEM R/R for about five years now (with the Charging Mod and Headlight Relay Mod installed). Certainly, the MOSFET regulators are better in that they are more efficient in what they do. That is, they waste less energy as heat, so they run much cooler. Since your R/R is likely bad, now is a good time to upgrade.

Do the tests in the link posted by joe suzuki, and you will know where the TL stands.

Not long after the Charging Mod became popular, D'Ecosse posted the warning that the Charging Mod alone actually increases the current through the starter relay connector (a pre-existing weak link in the system). So then, in order to cure that issue, he suggested the Headlight Relay Mod, which allows the headlights to pull their current directly from the battery, thus giving the starter relay connector some relief.

These two modifications actually improve the system. :)

Link to the Headlight Relay Mod.
http://www.tlzone.net/forums/frequent-tl-mods/111776-crappy-suzuki-wiring.html

You can also buy a pre-assembled harness for the headlights from easternbeaver.com that accomplishes the same results.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Planning on testing the stator tomorrow night and let y'all know what I find. Thanks for all the info so far!!! Just wish I could find more time!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Did the test on the stator and it appears to be bad. Ac voltage coming out of the stator is a low 12v. Ohm'ed out ok but bad voltage. Cross your fingers that I'm right!!!
 

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Sounds doubtful tho' not impossible. Are all 3 coils showing 12V? I'd normally expect something like all showing zilch or maybe just one giving a decent voltage (should be around 70V). 12V sounds like you aren't actually measuring the stator output.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
That was measuring the three prong connector that would plug into the r/r. Sounded kinda odd to me also. I double checked that it was Ac voltage. I'll double check it after while just in case.
 
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