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Discussion Starter #1
What 's up peeps. After a summer spent mostly fixing up problems the old girl has sprung another snafu..

Not charging the battery. So far I've tested:

Leakage - none.
Charging - tested pd across the battery and voltage doesn't change as the revs rise.
Regulator/rectifier - swapped out for one that I know works with no change.
Alternator - impedance between the coils (the three yellow wires) within specs. Infinite resistance between these and earth as it should be.
Checked wiring between regulator/rectifier and starter motor relay/battery and I have proper continuity.
Measured AC Voltage between the 3 yellow wires and earth with the engine running at these seem extremely low (like 2v) but don't know if that is because I'm not doing the test right.

Right now it looks like the alternator is duff but with all the readings coming up in spec this seems very confusing.

Anyone else had similar issues? :confused

On a more positive note, since last posting I sorted all my fuelling issues so when it does run, it runs one hell of a lot faster than before. Sweet.

Cheers All,

J.
 

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i think th ac voltage with the bike running should be about 75v+
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yep I think so too but am buggered if I know how to test it. Manual says, cold engine, no load at 5000rpm but doesn't specify how you're supposed to do this.

I tried it with engine running and reg/rec connected but maybe it should be disconnected. Didn't want to try this without checking though as some wires feed into the ECU and that is way, out and beyond my electrical knowledge....
 

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Engine running at around 2000rpm, select AC volts on the multimeter say 200V range, reading 60-90VAC between any 3 yellow wires ( note reading, as all 3 tests should be within a few volts of the peak reading ) no connected regulator/rectifier or RR as it is sometimes called. After that look for cleared fuse or overheated wires/connectors between the RR and battery terminals. Get battery charged and load tested if possible at auto elecs.
HTH
 

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What exactly is a "load test"? I was trying to find that out in an early thread I started. Will that tell me if there is something draining the battery when the bike is off? That seems to be an issue that I'm having. Its the only explanation that I can come up with when I have a fully charged battery that starts right up one day and the next day I have a mostly dead battery that isn't worth a damn.

So if the load test isn't the one that shows what could be draining the battery, can you tell me which one does??

Thanks!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Orange,

Connect an ammeter in series with the battery (try the 10a range)- with the ignition off there should be a zero reading.

In this case you also might have a dead battery.

Cheers,
J.
 

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I've never heard of an ammeter. Is that a setting that you can use on a multimeter?
And what exactly do you mean when you say to connect it in series with the battery? Does that mean to just put the meter leads on to the battery terminals and check the reading that way?
I can also charge the battery up again and eliminate the posibility of the battery being deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi Orange,

Ammeter is the AMPS setting on the multimeter. You want to test if there is a power drain on your battery when the bike is off.

In series means in line with the battery. Take of the earth lead from the battery, then connect the positive connecter from the multimeter to the negative terminal of the battery, connect the negative one from the multimeter to the earth lead. Start at a high amp range if you don't have an auto multi meter and go down, unless you have an alarm or summit fitted the reading should be zero.

Don't try this with the ignition on or touch the starter switch or you could frazzle the meter.

If your battery is dead, you might be able to charge it but it will go flat really quick on its own. Best way to test this is to charge it and measure the voltage over a few days with it disconnected from the bike, it shouldn't go down. Or just buy a new one, s'only 50 bucks innit?

Cheers,
J
 

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I'll give it a shot and see what I come up with.

The damn battery is new. I bought it thinking that my old one was bad. It turns out the damn thing was probably fine and it was just being drained from this problem that I still seem to have right now.

But i'll see what i can come up with using the multi meter.

Thanks.
 

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Ok I did as you said. My multi meter has the following selections: DCV, OHM, DCA & ACV.

I used DCA assuming the A was for amps. I have 200mA, 20mA, and 2mA selections. This is a digital multi meter if that makes any difference. I tested the volts of the battery itself first and its reading 12.20. So then I switched to the DCA selection and test the battery how you said (ground lead off the battery, + lead from the meter to the - terminal on the battery and - lead from the meter on the - lead disconnected from the battery) got 000's in each increment.

So what now? Is there anything else that I can test?
 

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I charged the battery all day and night last night. Then before I left for work this morning I took the charger off... let the battery settle and tested it. It stayed solid at 12.79 volts. Then I went to work and got home at 4:30pm and tested it again. It was showing 12.30 volts. So now its 6:30pm and I just test it again and its showing 12.28 volts. So this battery seems to be slowly losing its charge on its own.

Is it safe to say that the battery has to be the problem??
**Actually I just read on the front of the battery that standard voltage should be MORE then 12.8v**
So I guess that answers my question.

It would suck to have to buy another battery (since the shop doesn't warranty any "electrical items") but atleast its better then having some wiring issue that was draining the battery while the bike was off, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
yep mate - that's a bitch. Sounds like the battery is ill.

Still better your problem that mine!

My batteries great, I just have to charge it twice a week to stay mobile....
 
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