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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys,

My first post on this forum so i'd like to rack your brains. Im technically minded when it comes to Ducati's but under the fairing of my TLS i'm lost :confused

Thing is...ive looked on this forum and it seems i have a HT lead/coil fault due to my bike cutting out and running on one cylinder as and when it feels!!! It also has a big problem with surging so my ride becomes dangerous when cornering and a little hairy.

I can only imagine that this is a combination of 2 faults...first the cutting out onto one cylinder down to a dodgy coil(probably the front??) and no i aint done dealer mode yet, but will do. And secondly the surging possibly down to the thermostat???? Am i hot or cold???

Anyway guys, do i HAVE to remove the tank/airbox and other odds and ends to get at the front coil to replace it? Or can it be done otherwise? Cant even see it with the fairing off. Is it an easy job?

Along with a number of Ducati's this is the second TLS ive owned but this one seems worlds apart....everything just seems to be going wrong with it at the mo. Hate to part with it....but like i said...before i embark with renewing both coils are they a bugger to get at???

Gav.
 

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airbox off, tank up, but a bitch to get at as inside frame rails.. Left is harder than right. (cant remember which is front, think right?) Combination of getting at it from top and underneath, ideally with a 8mm rathchet/ring spanner, or micro wrench. Right side, helps to remove the airtube, couple of bolts.

But .. I;d cut back the HT wire first, clean the drain holes, before changing coils. also coil spade connectors fur up badly.

Finally, check out the Plus mod (search)

surging, start by checking the TPS
 

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:stupid What he said about the miss and then set the TPS and balance the throttle bodies to work out the surging.

And welcome to the Zone. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Oh and with the surging, the bike loses powerin around the 3-5 rpm bracket! So i can be at full pelt on the motorway then suddenly it will drop and bang right back on with no warning. Pretty hairy. Wondering if this could be a loose connection down to fuel starvation? Fuel pump?

Gav
 

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simply cut Ht lead to fresh part of conductor.

Drain holes for plug recesses: exit at side of cylinders.

check running temp and then TPs first, as not convinced your cutting out is result of coils? as surging just desrcibed sounds more like cutting out. Other causes but have a quick check on connection os starter relay as well, under tank pivot brace.
 

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TLOTM Sept. '08
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1) Change the plugs,
2) do the thermostat mod,
3) get a TRE.
 

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Sounds like you may have an original ecu in there from '97 the way you describe the surging. As suggested above, start with the tps once you sort the coil. After that you may need to move on to a yosh box or PCII/III (especially if you have a full system.)
 

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TLOTM Sept. '08
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The cold map causes horrible surging in that zone - if the thermostat mod has never been done, the bike is probably always running on the cold map.
Hence my recommendation to do the Thermostat mod (that should have been #1 on my list)
You can never get rid of the cold-map surging - best is just to ensure that you get the bike into the hot map operation and forget about the cold-map performance.
Recognize that any PC3 tuning you try to do on the cold map will also apply to the hot - which is NOT what you want to do.
The lower gear maps also cause a similar problem with the maps it selects, hence the TRE so it's always running in the 6th gear map
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The cold map causes horrible surging in that zone - if the thermostat mod has never been done, the bike is probably always running on the cold map.
Hence my recommendation to do the Thermostat mod (that should have been #1 on my list)
You can never get rid of the cold-map surging - best is just to ensure that you get the bike into the hot map operation and forget about the cold-map performance.
Recognize that any PC3 tuning you try to do on the cold map will also apply to the hot - which is NOT what you want to do.
The lower gear maps also cause a similar problem with the maps it selects, hence the TRE so it's always running in the 6th gear map
What i cant understand is that this bike could not of ran so bad with the surging from day one(when new in '97) so why now??

I mean its absolutely horrific...unrideable to be honest!!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
simply cut Ht lead to fresh part of conductor.

Drain holes for plug recesses: exit at side of cylinders.

check running temp and then TPs first, as not convinced your cutting out is result of coils? as surging just desrcibed sounds more like cutting out. Other causes but have a quick check on connection os starter relay as well, under tank pivot brace.
I have noticed that the running temp after going for a 30 min ride around town never goes any higher than 74 degrees max!! Am i right in saying this is too low?? I would even go as far to say that it really doesnt want to budge from 64!!!! I have to let it tick over for god knows how long to get it around the 74 mark.
 

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TLOTM Sept. '08
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.... never goes any higher than 74 degrees max!! Am i right in saying this is too low?? I would even go as far to say that it really doesnt want to budge from 64!!!! ...
..... that's what I've been trying to tell you that's what your fundamental problem is.
It runs like s#it on the cold map and the '97 model TLS temp sensor location (in the radiator) never allows it to see a high enough temperature to switch over to the warm map (80 deg)

http://www.tlzone.net/forums/frequent-tl-mods/49971-guide-97-tls-thermostat-problem.html

http://www.tlzone.net/forums/help-forum/111197-thermostat-housing.html

It's going to be especially bad with after-market exhaust as will be even leaner.

Here's a test you can do for under $1 (seriously)

Go to Radio shack and get one of these - http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062317

Warm the bike up to your normal operating temp, then turn it off.

Unplug your temperature sensor connector plug (left side of radiator) and connect one of those resistors across the terminal pins of the connector plug.
This will fool the ECM into seeing a temperature that is above the cold map switchover point.
Turn on ignition - it should read about 90 deg or so on your cluster with that 220 ohm resistor connected.
Tape it up & go for a ride & feel the miracle at work.
If you feel the difference, that should prove the basic issue then you can follow the linked procedures above to carry out the mod (which became std in 98+ models)

If still stumbling a bit, get up to 5th or 6th gear & see how it runs in the 3-5K rpm range.
If you feel difference there (vs 2nd & 3rd) then the TRE is the next step in the solution

Change the plugs and make sure you get CR8 (9 is for TLR)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Surely the bike hasent done this from day one...so why now? What causes it to play up now?

Can this still be the result of it cutting out onto one cylinder and the F1 and red light coming on? Or is this something else?
 

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TLOTM Sept. '08
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You have something else going on also if your FI light is coming on - put in dealer mode and get the code.
Get the code - http://wotid.com/tls/content/view/54/60/ and fix whatever is causing that first then take care of the temperature problem
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You have something else going on also if your FI light is coming on - put in dealer mode and get the code.
Get the code - http://wotid.com/tls/content/view/54/60/ and fix whatever is causing that first then take care of the temperature problem
Ive gone into dealer mode and theres no fault code just 00, i dont know why. Although the problem does happen as and when it feels, maybe i would have to do it as soon as it occurs!! I will also point out that the line on the side is at the bottom, should this be centre? And could this be the cause of my surging?

Gav
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Right ive just done a bit of digging on the forum and i understand that the TPS bar being at the bottom is probably why my bike is surging and behaving like a bitch!! Possibly why it has been cutting out onto one cylinder??

Right guys how do i adjust the TPS, how do i get to it?? Is it a big job??
 

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I mentioned check running temp? - as with a cold runing map AND a badly adjusted TPs, that can cause probs. I;m guessing low line is too rich but a while since I've played with it. Whats your tank milage like?

However , an F1 light is another matter, you've got to get the code first (and mention any/all symtoms up front as sends off on a goose chase otherwise)

ignition to be on to keep code in memory/temp wire in to dealer mode, go for aride.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I mentioned check running temp? - as with a cold runing map AND a badly adjusted TPs, that can cause probs. I;m guessing low line is too rich but a while since I've played with it. Whats your tank milage like?

However , an F1 light is another matter, you've got to get the code first (and mention any/all symtoms up front as sends off on a goose chase otherwise)

ignition to be on to keep code in memory/temp wire in to dealer mode, go for aride.
Running temp is 72 degrees. Tank mileage is poor, i did pick up on that the other day. I have had a TLS before and was never as bad on economy as this one. And sorry!! Im throwing a mess of info at you all...i will do that with the code. Cant get out til Tuesday with the bike as with work and my kids my hands are tied.

But as for getting to the TPS is it easy? Whereabouts will i find it?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Right i put it into dealer mode and c24 came up. I had a spare coil/HT lead so installed the front coil and lead and the fault has gone. The bike fired up first time and had no hesitation.

Although i havent taken it for a ride just yet...will be doing that tmoz. Im hoping it will help with the surging. I also checked the TPS and its spot on.

Next thing is to keep an eye on the temp and possibly do the the thermostat mod.
 
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