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Discussion Starter #1
There's a discussion on another forum that's probably about to go ballistic, over break-in procedures for a KTM 990SMT that a guy bought here new ... people are suggesting the motoman/mototune whatever his name is method and getting quite excited when someone else says "follow the manual" ...

What's the real story?
 

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:laugh you will have this old wive's tail ( hey i wouldn't mind some o that !) witchcraft superstisiouse bullshit till the end of time,it goes way back to when (keeping it simple) nothing was very precisely round,and other factors,it took time for high spots to "wear-in" bla ditty bla,just fukin run it and dont overheat it i say,it is not really a big issue these days,but i am waiting to hear other opinions as well :) :rant
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's why I wanted to hear from engine builders, like Sam :D
Some of the guys on the other forum can't bleed their own brakes :dowhat and they're offering advice on break-in procedures?!? I've never owned a bike from new so I just don't know :laugh
 

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I'm actually an engine reconditioner so I had to advise my customers in such a way as I would not have an engine come back.

and simply my advice is to to run a good quality oil. ride it with respect and change the oil and filter at 1000km..

if you are replacing the camshafts ( with new or reground ones) in an engine then run it at a fast idle ( around 2000rpm ) or above for the frist 10 minutes.
 

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What about the theory of nailing it from the word go. Isn't that supposed to seat the piston rings perfectly?
I'll never have the money to buy a brand new bike, so it'd be nice to know for when I win the lottery. :laugh
 

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I rode my new FZ1 home from the dealer and after it reached operating temp, ran it up to 9,500 rpm with long coast downs on the way home. Did some canyon rides operating at normal sporting rpm, up and down the scale. Changed the oil at 100 miles, 600 miles and then on the regular 2,500 mile schedule after that. Switched to synthetic (Mobil 1 4T) at the 5,000 mile oil change.

Right or wrong, at 11,000 miles, she runs like a raped ape, capable of 90 mph wheelies with silly me in the saddle at 7,000 feet. Definitely a "Mototunish" break in :)
 

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imho the ideal thing for the piston/rings is to flog it motoman style, the ideal thing for the bottom end is to break it in a bit more easily and change oil very quickly after initial running.

Kawasaki used to (and may still) recommend (MX, I don't dabble in road racing so much) break in the motor easily as per the service manual, then immediately put in new rings and go flog it. That way the bottom end gets an easy break in and the top gets a hard one.

I seriously doubt it really matters at all. If anything, changing oil very quickly (like first 100 miles or something) is probably good to get whatever swarf may be floating around out of there.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
... problem is, I seem to remember someone posting that before and people laughing at that and other advice for more speed on his webpage ...

Not a problem I'll ever have to worry about - I doubt my paranoia and fear of scratching it will ever let me buy a brand new vehicle :laugh
 

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As above on my flat tappet motors I run them at 2000-2500 for 20 minutes, then change oil. After that I take it easy but not too easy on em for 500km. Then it's business as usual (foot flat whenever possible).
 

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Yes, engine builders chime in. I've kinda wondered about this too.
 

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What id like to know is : Has anyone seen or know someone whos engine has actually failed or broken down because of the way they ran it in?
 

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yes

which is why i gave the advice i wrote earlier :banghead
 

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What id like to know is : Has anyone seen or know someone whos engine has actually failed or broken down because of the way they ran it in?
My Mum failed to run in a reco engine properly and it became a smoker. A quick hone, a set of rings and a drive by me fixed it :laugh

I used to get to run cars in for Dad over a weekend before they were relesed as demo's or to the press for testing. But there was more than the engine to do with that. Brakes had to be bedded in, rear seats broken in, rattles, squeaks, windnoise etc had to be noted.

New engines are tested at the factory. The initial ring run in is done on a dyno. I've watched them run engines at the old Holden engine plant down here good stuff. At least when they're breaking in new cams the engine has a load on it and isn't revving unloaded which isn't good for the new rings and bore.

Then you have warfies who drive them, they're driven around the storage yard by bozo'z. They're driven onto and off transport trucks, they're moved around the car yard. They've had a heap of cold starts and stops before you get it. :laugh

Seen enough videos of motorcycle manufacturers to see how they run the engines up and down through the gears before crating them up not to worry about much either.

Driving easy for the 1st little while has a lot more to do with other stuff and not a lot for the engine.
 

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The two parts of the engine for which break in is critical is the rings and the cams/lifters. The worst thing one can do during break in is to loaf along keeping the engine a given rpm. Every engine I've built has been broken in the way I was taught by one of the best circle track engine builders in this area. Take it out to an open road and put it in second gear. Accelerate at full throttle from 25-30 mph to about 80 mph and then let it coast back down using engine braking to slow it. Do that 10 times and then drive it. This seats the rings and helps run in the cams under load. For my own engines I also avoided running the engine at constant rpm for long periods for the first few hundred miles. I've never had one burn oil or have any other problems for that matter.
 

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Pretty much describes my ride home from the Yamaha dealer :) That ride also made me realize the new ride was crying out for mods. The PCIII and full system got ordered about 1 hour after arriving home :laugh

Eddie Sisneros (Burned on Thumpertalk) assembles new motors "dry" (no oil on the piston). He claims the rings seat right in this way and that the oil arrives quickly enough to prevent galling.

I sort of did this when I assembled my DRZ. Put one "dot" of oil on each piston skirt but otherwise dry. The big yellow pig runs tight many off road miles later.
 
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most factories run the bike on roll. all the six gears almost to red line

ducati 848 run in prosedure is insane, you have to drive like under 6000rpm for the first thou, then you can run it 7500 or so for the next 500?, can't remember the actual numbers, but it is just insanely strict
 

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I have rebuilt 1 motorcycle and a few car engines. I have never ran the rpm's for a long period of time for breakin. On the SBC's I have rebuilt, I have done a really good prime of the oiling system before initial starting. Then when driving did not baby it but on the other had did not beat the hell out of it.

I was told by a guy who builds salt flat engines to put your foot in it. Like Jeff had mentioned to run the rpms up, while driving, then your foot off the gas. Make sure the rings get some pressure on them to seat properly.

A lot of old school thinking is still around. An engine is hard to kill despite what most people think. Regular oil changes is the best thing you can do to keep an engine running for a long time.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yeah the TL manual has similar limits, Jarko - I remember when AzzaNZ got his a few years back, he had to keep it under blah-blah rpm for blah-blah km, through about 3 steps.
Got to ride his bike once, the only other TL I can compare it too ... his engine (30,000km less than mine :laugh ) felt about the same as mine, maybe a bit "tighter" but his gear box was way sloppier ...
 

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Well i flogged my 650 through the twisties from day one, first oil/filter change at 300 klms and then 1000 klms, you wont beleive how much crap is in the oil at 300 klms from new!
 
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