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Discussion Starter #1
Took bike to dyno yesterday,only got as far as 1 single test run upto rev limit,which was set by the dyno operator at a lower 9250 for safety,bike hit limit made a big bang,them popped and farted all the way down the gear's to tickover,dyno operator then switched bike off to set computer for proper run,went to switch bike back on and now it turn's over(still getting spark,also fitted new plugs) but won't actually start and not getting any fault codes.
Now it was popping and farting because it was running really weak according to dyno computer.
Had to leave it there as they were shutting up,so gonna get mate with van to pick it up today.

Anyone had same problem or any idea's of what could have happened?

HELLPPPP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :BANGHEAD
 

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Check that the throttle bodies are seated properly.

Does it sound like it has compression?

Put it into dealer mode and crank it for a good 4 - 6 seconds and see if it throws a code, it'll take at lest that long if it's a cam or crank position sensor failure.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Steve TLS said:
Check that the throttle bodies are seated properly.

Does it sound like it has compression?

Put it into dealer mode and crank it for a good 4 - 6 seconds and see if it throws a code, it'll take at lest that long if it's a cam or crank position sensor failure.
Yes, ste it does seem to still have good compression,but havent yet done o comp test as not got a tester,but the dyno guy said it was running o.k. before he switched the ignition off,except for the popping/farting which we already know is down to it running piss weak.

We did try dealer mode but never actually cranked it,so will do that when i pick it up shortly mate and will remove plug and turn over to see if its getting fuel.

Thank's
 

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popping and farting in MY experience has been from either the firing order being wrong.... or a timing issue....cam chain being one or two teeth the wrong way. maybe it jumped a toooth or two. cam chain tension?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, nothing showing in dealer mode,even removed cam sensor to see if it picked it up and it did(C11) so that works,cylinders are getting fuel,so next will check the cam alignment.
 

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Also keep an eye out for any major vacume leaks (TB's seated well, etc) as the computer won't pick that up at all.

good luck
 

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Always do the simple stuff first. Have you checked to see if the TBs are firmly seated like Steve and Josh suggested?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
1crock said:
Always do the simple stuff first. Have you checked to see if the TBs are firmly seated like Steve and Josh suggested?
No,
But i feel sick right now after seeing that the rear cam's when at R/T seem to be 5-6 teeth out,but there is no damage to any of the teeth on the cam's or idler gear,but bike turns over find?
So it looks like it has bent a valve or two and no doubt damaged the 1060 piston's:puke
What i need to do i guess is borrow a compression tester off some one to be sure b4 i remove the engine and strip it.
:puke :puke :puke
 

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:doh There's a chance it didn't hurt the pistons, I've seen it before:)
 

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doh... sorru to hear that mate.you might of just put a little smile on the piston....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Cant figure out how i can manage to actually slip because the cam chain is tight,or is it not that simple.
What would happen if i refitted the cam's back to there correct postion and started bike(that's if it does start)? Just wondering out of despiration(sp)
 

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hope for the best for you monkey...

this motor buildup stuff is nerveracking sometimes.
 

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TLMONKEY said:
Cant figure out how i can manage to actually slip because the cam chain is tight,or is it not that simple.
What would happen if i refitted the cam's back to there correct postion and started bike(that's if it does start)? Just wondering out of despiration(sp)

If the origional problem wasn't caused by a failed part (i.e chain didn't slip and sprocket didn't move on camshaft) I can't see how any harm would be likely in starting it breifly.


good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks Guy's,
Guess what i was on the phone talking about cam's being out when it was pointed out to me"You time the cam's up at F/T NOT FOOKIN R/T YOU IDIOT,READ THE FOOKIN MANUAL"
So yes i admit it i am a fookin idiot/dumbass:banghead
So just ran out and set rear at F/T(Not checked front yet though) and guess what, they now line up.
So 2mora will check front and then if all o.k. guess i will have to start with electric's/ecu?
So again,
Thank's for all your help/input people and sorry for being a stressed out dumbass:banghead
 

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Well that's good news actually:thumbup Could be as simple as a TB blown out of its boot:banana

best of luck
 

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i still say it wasnt fueling the plugs was dry when they was taken out after about 5 min's of cranking not even a small smell of fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
BikePilot said:
Well that's good news actually:thumbup Could be as simple as a TB blown out of its boot:banana

best of luck
Thank's BikePilot



billy_tlr said:
i still say it wasnt fueling the plugs was dry when they was taken out after about 5 min's of cranking not even a small smell of fuel.
Bike is fuelling bill,first thing i did was remove both plug's and put my hand's over the hole and they had fuel on them after turning bike over.Also checked cam sensor and that's o.k. just wish i hadnt sold my spare raptor ecu 2 weeks ago:banghead
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Right,
Update of sort's.
All cam's line up,got spark,got fuel,good compression,checked ecu on another raptor(Thank's to deb's and iain(blackno.1+tillerthou :cheers )

Bike does turnover but just wont start/fire up.
Have replaced all relay's,reg/rec and T.O.S. and cam sensor
Checked all fuses,fuel pump does primes when switched on.
Sidestand switch by-passed
No fault codes

As we know,bike ran fine on first single run on dyno,made big bang when hit lower set rev limit(9250rpm) set by dyno guy,he went back down the gearbox to tick over,turned bike off for a minute to reset computer and now it just wont start:banghead

So i am at a total loss,what else can i check guy's?
 
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