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G’day all! This is my first post on this forum but I have been a member for a few years. I have read some similar threads about clutch drag, clutch slip, and clutch cams, but I am pretty much a motorcycle novice and could not find an exact answer so I’m hoping you guys can help.

Firstly, let me introduce myself. My name is Max, I live in Darwin. I have minimal riding experience, but I am handy with tools if I know what I'm looking at. I have a 2001 TL1000R that I bought for an absolute steal in 2008 and road occasionally until 2010 when I lent it to a "mate" who brought it back with the front rim shattered, and heavy side impact. I have been working on it ever since, when I have the time and the money, and it has been up on stands the whole time. So I have replaced just about everything external, changed my fluids, got it serviced, polished the daylights out of it and got it registered but have found a problem with what I assume to be the clutch. It also came back with 0% tread on the rear tyre, and another mate told me this bloke was riding it pretty hard...

I changed my fluids as soon as I started working on it in 2010 (except for the brake), treated the inside of the tank after getting it sprayed (removed the pump first, of course!) and have kept preservative in the fuel. I have replaced the levers and had the clutch and brake fluid changed professionally last week. I also found a set of new clutch springs in with the spares that came with it, could be the last owner suspected something, but that is probably coincidence, whenever I got on it last time, it went like a bat out of hell. I have only ever used high octane fuel.

So the problem is this;

Start it up, jump on, ride off - No worries at all. You would say there is nothing wrong with it. It fires up straight away (better than ever) with a massive, throaty, ball-tingling, Yoshimura roar... so that gets a tick in the box.

Due to the geography of Darwin, after about ten minutes of riding the following has occurred:

Engine Temp has hit about 85 degrees.

Have hit a 100 kph zone and given it a good squirt into 4th gear.

Travelled about 15 km.

This is when it goes to shit.

There is a gradual, but consistently decreasing loss of torque to the rear wheel, which I am taking a very recently semi-educated guess to mean the clutch is slipping. I have been for three rides, of less than 30 minutes, since registering it last week, and this has happened each time and has gotten worse each time. At first it was subtle and I thought my clutch lever wasn’t returning fully because it feels like the clutch is only partially engaged. On my first ride I topped up the tank with about 10L of fuel and thought perhaps I had been swindled with low octane cat piss. There does not appear to be anything wrong with the action of the lever. The cut-off switch for starting in gear was disconnected and removed, after my mechanics broke it, but I'm guessing that is irrelevant.

I have done less than 1000km combined riding and my mechanical knowledge of the inner-workings of this wondrous beast are next to naught, so my starting point is "Plenty of vroom-vroom but no go-go."

The revs are still there and they go off the dial, as if I was revving in neutral, but the acceleration drops down to bugger all.

I rode about 17km this morning into work and by the time I got to the gate I could barely get 20 kph in 1st. The first 10 km or so, were no worries. But as soon as I hit the 100 km zone, and opened it up from the lights, it started to struggle after I hit 4th gear.

So I did what I had to do at work (jerks called me in on leave!), which took about an hour, then braced myself for a very slow ride home with possible road-side recovery.

But when I got on it, it was fine. Took off like there was nothing wrong. This is after sitting directly in the full Darwin sun at 10:00am in January, so sure, it had cooled down, but not to a cold start.

It was a timid ride home, changing up at 20 and 40 and staying under 80, but it handled the gradual acceleration fine. I was pretty much just flexing my hand and hoping to hell that I would not be paying for recovery, but it still didn’t feel quite like the ball-tearing, face-melting beast, that quietly terrifies me every time I climb on.

So I guess my questions are:

Does this sound like clutch slipping to you? Could it be anything to do with the fuel, the injectors, or the computer?

Does this mean I need to replace the clutch? If so, should I replace the entire clutch, or just parts of it? I have read some threads about "dishing" and inspecting clutch components for bluing and wear and I will have a better idea once I actually look at it, but is it a fair assumption to think that if parts of it are cactus, the rest is probably not far behind it, and would there be compatibility issues if I mix-and match?

Are there kits available, if so which one should I use? I don't race or need it to commute, so this bike can be considered "recreational".

Mechanically, I want it as close to the factory set up as possible without spending a fortune, but I will take strength, longevity and reliability over cost savings. I am in Australia, so if anyone can recommend a supplier that would be awesome.

Finally, Is this something that can be done at home by an occassionally smart bloke with a socket set, a rubber mallet and basic mechanical skills, but nothing flash like a torque wrench, or calipers, or wizz-bang whatchamicallits?

I got old mate to pay for the parts that were obviously wrecked, like the fairings (cheap Hong Kong junk that was an absolute nightmare to fit), the foot brake and the front rim, but I have still spent 1000s getting to where I am now. So I’m really hoping to keep the labour costs down.

If you guys could help me out with this it would certainly be appreciated. I need to be able to ride to Queensland so I can club old mate unconscious with the shattered helmet that I lent him.

….. lessons learned.

Cheers,

Maxi P. :)
 

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The Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow Moderator,
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The simple test for clutch slip is next time it happens see if the revs start to rise but no increase in speed on the speedo. A lack of power could be many other things so best to rule out the clutch slip first.

By the state of the rear tyre I would guess your friend has fried the clutch and now it's very intolerant of oil temperature etc

It's an easy fix but you need to be sure which clutch pack is in your TLR as there are two versions. Count the plates and it'll either be the 8+1 or 9+1 frictions.

Best combination is OEM Suzuki Friction plates and Steels with Barnett Springs

 

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Discussion Starter #3
"The simple test for clutch slip is next time it happens see if the revs start to rise but no increase in speed on the speedo."

Yep. This is exactly what is happening once the trouble begins.

And wouldn't you know it, the spare springs I found are a pack of Barnett MT-12-6. Score one for the little guy! WOO-HOO!

There is six of them, is that the required quantity?

So I may get away with just changing the friction plates?

Thanks heaps!
 

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If you have the springs just fit them and try them before you get the plates as a lot of people have found that new springs fixes the problem

yes 6 is the correct number of springs
 

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The Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow Moderator,
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Whilst you are in the clutch fitting the springs I would at least drop the plates out and check the condition of them and the steels, maybe even count them so you could order new ones without having to strip it again.

Not sure on good suppliers in Oz but I'm sure Stu or somebody will chime in :thumbup
 

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Also post a pic of the clutch springs you have in the bike already, along side the Barnett ones you have.

I had a set of new Barnett springs sent to me that turned out to be the originals someone had put back in the Barnett packaging.

It would be easy to get confused which is which if you don't know what the difference is.
 

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start on the outside of the bike.......

I'm going for the hydro setup being faulty .

cos its like it pumps itself up and doesn't allow the clutch to engage.

take it out to the edge of town with an 8mm socket.

undo the slave cylinder from the bike and let it hang.

start the bike

paddle it off and kick it into first.

ride it for half an hour without the clutch and I bet it dont slip.

put it back on and sneak back home

if its not that then its in the basket plates or cam mechanism

but yours smells of the slave not returning.

if I.m correct then strip out the lines , master and slave and clean them all and reassemble them.

if it is the clutch itself then come back and we'll talk you thru some checks.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Wow, okay! Thanks heaps everyone.

All of this sounds completely sensible to me.

Except for the bit about me riding with the slave dangling, not that I doubt the process (I was really hoping to hear from The Ring-In on this one, almost had the cheek to PM you! :) ), I just doubt my ability to stay calm while shifting gears with no clutch, for the first time, in the middle of nowhere, with no back up. I can foresee me limping away from a chewed up wreck searching for a phone signal so I can call one of the mates that I don't have up here, or hitching a ride back to Darwin splattered all over the bull bar of a road train, or stumbling around lost in the scrub with a piss drenched t-shirt wrapped around my head (thanks Bear Grylls) like Chevy Chase in Vacation.

So, course of action:

Strip the hydro, clean it in DOT 4, inspect, reassemble, bleed.

Test ride.

Strip the faring, drain the oil, open the clutch case, inspect and count plates and springs, post photo, swap springs, reassemble, fill.

Test ride.

Curse, order friction plates, replace.

High-5 myself.

Does this sound legit?

Entirely possible that these springs are the old ones, although there are in inspection order, maybe a little too clean.... but the cardboard in the packaging is also spotless..... yeah okay: pics or GTFO! :)

Thanks again, time to get to work!
 

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Flush out the clutch system and give the clutch master a nice scrub too. I had a similar experience due to the fluid not returning properly through my master cylinder.:bwtiller
 

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Discussion Starter #13
There was some pretty serious gunk behind the hydro. Grit and bits of plastic and hard chunks of grease and all sorts. The inside wasn't much better. So its all been cleaned and bled and reassembled. But now I have another problem.

I dropped the oil and opened up the basket to discover 9 and 1. The springs in it are the brass coloured ones below. They are next to the ones in the "Barnett" pack. Anyone know which ones are actually Barnett?

20130506_170126 (240x180).jpg


Everything fired up alright and I got on to go for a ride but now when I put it into gear I get the chug and clunk, the neutral light goes off, I get a tiny bit of forward momentum through the friction point and then nothing happens. The bike seems to still be in neutral. Same same when I try it in second.

Have I over tightened the springs? I had no idea how to put them back on and I was up on stands, so I put the rear brake on and tightened them with a wrench. Not super tight, but secure.
 

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it sounds like its either not disengaging properly, you may not have got all the air out or not put the slave back properly or you have put the clutch back together wrong. notice on the pressure plate there is a little circular indentation this must line up with a corresponding indentation on the face of the clutch center
 
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