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Discussion Starter #1
got 99 tl1000r yoshi slip ons about to get power commander any ideas of what i should do first to make faster
 

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Airbox mod, k + n filter.
Trackday
Sticky tyres
Ohlins rear (dear)
Repspring your forks
Cut your 500prm restrictor wire.




Buy a TLS :laugh
 

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350?

steering damper.

or save up and get decent suspension.

or save up more and get some light wheels.


or save up more, enjoy it stock, and get a track bike.
 

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TRE
Good Plugs
and since you already choose the faster R your already have a head start :)
 

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if you want to go faster find a good rider school and do track days. Cornerspeed rider school is a good one if you want to go to VIR. Other than rider schools and track days the best way to get faster is suspension work. Bitubo suspension is prob the most bang for your buck. Front fork springs and valves are fairly inexpensive and make the bike much more handleable (hopefully Ill be doing this over winter). Steering dampers are also great things to improve but I personally can live with the stock damper. If its not done yet the first thing I do to a new bike or a newly purchased used bike is get rid of the stock brake lines and put stainless braided brake lines in. If you really want to pour money into it get magnesium or CF wheels. I dont do this due to cost but it takes weight off an area where weight savings really helps handling.
 

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When you go to a riding school do they insist you use a bike that they provide, or do they permit you to use your own?

Seems to me that they would want you on your own bike, granted if it is worthy and safe.
 

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GP Suspension valving for the front and a set of springs.
 

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1/5th throttle insert

(ca'mon guys, ya'll are slippin', can't get your referal checks if you don't refer anyone.)
 

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Track day school gets my vote. Also I wouldn't spend much on mods unless the usually stuff is all good to go - fresh fork oil, fresh tires, all pivot points lubed up, air filter clean etc. Sag set front and rear too!

HH brake pads and braided lines would probably make a big difference up front for stopping power and aren't too expensive.

You could put 2.5wt oil in your steering damper for quicker turning.
 

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jav1177 said:
so should iu not get the power commander first?
If you have the stumbles in the FI around 4k and really want to get rid of them, then yes, I personally would recommended. It was one of the first things I bought, and it's been working great for 7 years, completely smoothed out the throttle response.
 

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If you are somewhat mechanically inclined, remove one layer from the head gaskets. It'll increase compression and decrease the squish clearance -- both of which the TL responds well too. If you do this though, remember this is at your own risk. Measure clearances before running even though things should be good to go if everything is done properly.

Matthew
 

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Discussion Starter #16
thanx for the info. 1 last quest. should i get pc3, pc3r, or just pc2. and should i remove pare valve. thanx again 4 the help
 

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Well, don't ask me about powercommanders.:banghead For some reason they last about 3 months on my tiller. But when they work, there worth there weight in gold.
Yes, take out your pair valve. Save some weight and **** emmisions! IF you can weld, take your stock plates, cut off the hard lines flush with the plates and fill the hole with weld. Not to hot, you don't want to warp the plates. That will save you some money on block off plates.
If you can get to a track day, it is THE BEST thing you can do for YOU and your tiller.
 

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not necessarily in order -

track school
41 tooth rear sprocket
Pipercross filter (K&N is a scam)
1/5 throttle mod

None of that will make the bike much faster but it will sure as hell FEEL a lot faster :devious
 
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