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Ok i left my bike on charge last night, showed full charge this morning, and went to start her, she turned over about 5 times, and that was it, couldn't start the bike.

Had to use a jump start box to get her running, it was real cold last night and she left outside, whats the best way to save the battery from getting so cold, apart from taking it out every night.

Cheers
 

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sounds like you need a new battery and a battery tender. I'm on year 6+ on my current bat.
 

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Yer that what worried me, this is a nearly new battery not even a session old yet, and most nights she left on my charger/tender to keep it running well.

Just shocked if its died so soon.
 

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Check starter relay as well. Spray with contact cleaner. Battery might be new or fully charged, but poor relay connection from main harness, won't give you enough umph to start the TL.
 

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Running a multigrade oil with a smaller first number will make it crank easier in the cold. And just get another new battery.
 

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I have this same issue and thinking about the + mod. In fact it stranded me this morning, just switched batteries and she fired up tonite, I'll see what happens in the morning.

As far as the oil goes, I'd worry about clutch slippage that seems to plague others that have gone the synthetic route.

I'm thinking about putting a hidden switch in the path to the headlights to turn them off until after I start it up. I'm afraid I'll forget their not on though. I hate how Suzuki has the lights on when you try and start it, it's a serious waste of amps. My buddy gave me a ride home on his zx-9r and it reminded me of my previous ninja, the light didn't come on till you took your thumb off the starter. That's a good setup. I don't know if I could set something up like that, but it would be better than the current setup. I could use those amps to throw more spark.

Anyway, just letting you know, you're not alone.

C
 

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Suonds like you need a new battery... If it's less than 12 months old, you should get a new one under warranty:O
My buddy gave me a ride home on his zx-9r and it reminded me of my previous ninja, the light didn't come on till you took your thumb off the starter. That's a good setup. I don't know if I could set something up like that, but it would be better than the current setup. I could use those amps to throw more spark.
That wouldn't be hard to set up... you would just need to rewire the the headlight relay to switch on using the ignition pulse as a trigger. you'd probably need to make a little electronic switch that uses the tacho signal to turn it on?

I might look into what is involved in setting something like this up as a plug in mod?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well i got a spare battery so i swap that over tomorrow now, and see if that sorts it, just shocked how quick it died. As for lights being on, i ok there, got a uk tls so can switch lights of manually which i always do before i turn her on in mornings.

I also not rather change the oil grade if possible, as she has slipped once or twice since having the PCIII fitted as more torque i think so i rather not have the hassle there.
Cheers thou for ideas, i have a play tomorrow on my day of and see what happens.
 

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As far as the oil goes, I'd worry about clutch slippage that seems to plague others that have gone the synthetic route.

I'm thinking about putting a hidden switch in the path to the headlights to turn them off until after I start it up.C
Geeze, I haven't had a TL running in so long I can't remember, is there a load-shed relay that turns off the lights etc. when you're cranking?

If you look on the European eBay site you'll see used right-side switchgear pods with a multi-position switch for the lights. Of you can find the part number and order it from your Suzuki dealer, that's what I did for my old TLS and for my BMW. Or there's somebody here on-list (or on TLplanet?) who sells an appropriately-sized pre-wired rocker switch that you mount in to the right-side switchpod, or you can add your own small toggle. The point is, your bike's right-side switchpod is already wired for a light switch, it's not Suzuki's fault, the US government decreed that the mfgrs not have a light switch to be sold in the US.

Add a light switch, a relay for the headlight, a relay for the coils, and convert the taillight to LED. You'll find everything working MUCH better! LED turn indicators are also worth having.
 

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As far as synthetic and the clutch, get a good clutch and use good synth if you live in a cold climate.
 

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Nope, TL's leave the ligth on while cranking:coocoo Even my 1985 honda turns it off. I haven't modded the TL to turn the headlight off but I've been intending to for the last few years:laugh

I doubt mine would crank much before the bat went flat in really cold weather, fortunately it starts up quickly:cool

BTW I find it starts up much better with the 5w-40 syn than the 15w-40 dino or even 10w-40 syn. With the thicker stuff its a bit iffy wether the bike will start on a single diget moning (deg F of course), with the 5w-40 it turns over much more quickly:)

Oh, I've been using syn oil for the last 46k miles, still on the oem clutch:banana
 

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This simple mod will turn the lights off while cranking. The lights will be on before and after though.

Click for a big one
 

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That's exactly what I intend to do sooner or later and is how my honda came from the factory:thumbup

I think its probably good that the headlight is on before and after cranking, that way in an emergency you can have the light on with the engine not running.
 

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Steve, how hard would it be to do that mod with power transitors? :O

Solid state would be more relyable...

Also, for any of you electronics whiz's, i have a very basic understanding of electronics but how do you convert a pulse (from the tacho) to a steady current flow capable of turning on a transistor?
 

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Wayne, not very hard at all to do it with a transistor, but switching at least 10amps I think the relay is a better option.

You wouldn't want a tacho pulse, you'd be better off designing around a 12V coil pulse. A tacho pulse would limit your applications as different bikes use different signals, levels etc. I've got a magic black box here that I ripped out of a Triumph car I had years ago. It used to switch the air con off when the revs were below 1200 (idling @ 800 or something) so the engine wouldn't overheat in our summers. The aircon would switch back on at 1200+ rpm. All it has in it is a relay and a few transistors and capacitors (& resistors) and an adjustment pot. Without tracing it out I'd say it's just several RC timing circuits one adjusted via the pot. Once the pulses come in quick enough that the timer stops timing out it causes a second one to activate and it switches the relay. :dunno
 

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Wayne, not very hard at all to do it with a transistor, but switching at least 10amps I think the relay is a better option.
Ooops, you'd have to put a bit of thought into it, and it's not going to be as simple to install as the relay. Because we want the lights off when the starter is on.

So you might as wll go with some logic / latching too. Ignition on - lights off - hit the starter lights off (everytime) - release the starter = lights on.
 

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yeah, that's the what i want to do, if you somehow coupled your mod with your other suggestion:O would that work?


Hell, there is no way that it's going to be "Plug and Play".... looks like i'll have to completely redesign the loom...:lol
 

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So you might as wll go with some logic / latching too. Ignition on - lights off - hit the starter lights off (everytime) - release the starter = lights on.
:confused Ok, how on earth do i do that?:O

Remember, i said BASIC understanding of electronics:laugh
 

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With some latches you can get IC's with several latches in them, you might need an AND gate too, I haven't thought about it much. If you find the PDF's for common chips, the circuit will be easy enough to design. Google "digital latches" or ttl digital latch" or something and you will probably find some info. Search for boolean logic too.

Power goes on - nothing happens & at key turn on, the starter is released. Starter button is pressed latch 1 turns on. Then if the starter button is off and latch 1 is on - turn on our final output. (But it would be nice to to always turn the final output off anytime the starter is pressed, so then you'd want an Exlusive OR gate or XOR :laugh - another chip.

You'd draw the operation in boolean, then trim it down to the bare minimum, then use the right gates to make it work.

The gate output wont be enough to drive a power transistor, so you'll have to go up through a darlington pair or something.
 

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FWIW, the headlights draws about 4-8 amps the starter draws about 200amps initial rotate and maybe 100 odd amps while cranking. At some point the extra current draw from the lights will be an issue though in percentage terms it is not an impact on starting, given a good charging system and battery ie normal condition. Just that you happen to see the headlight on and think it is a problem when starting. What you do not see is the same amount of current as the headlight, being pulled by the ignition circuit, and the 3Amps being pulled by the start relay.

Steve has some good advice as always, very detailed and on the money. Though i believe the headlight is not a problem being on as the motor cold cranks. Sagging battery terminal voltage and or voltage drops in poor condition wiring/fuses/connections may well be.

Get the battery load tested properly if in doubt, at a good auto elec place. Carbon pile load cell with current indicator and accurate voltmeter will reveal all on an a suspect battery. That UK is a bloody cold place...brrrrr.
 
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