I've been having the same problem with my bike and I've posted on here several times. Someone did tell me to try a test to see if there was something draining the battery when the bike was off. He said to use a multi meter and select the Amps reading. Start on the highest setting and try each one. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. Then put the positive lead from the tester on the negative battery post and the negative lead from the tester on the negative lead that you removed from the battery. It should always be Zero.
I have the same battery as you do and on the front of mine it says that the standard voltage should be 12.8v. Mine is down to 12.25 now and keeps dropping on its own. I'm not really sure what else to tell you to test / check, but if this is your 4th battery I would guess that there has to be something either draining when the bike is off or that your charging system isn't doing its job 100%. Electrical crap isn't my strong area which is probably why i'm still dealing with similiar problems.
Let us know what you come up with on the test I gave you.
your regulator/rectifier might be shot and it's not charging the battery. so you are running all the electrical loads on the bike off your battery even when it's running.
if you aren't over 14 volts when the bike is running, something is wrong with the reg/rec.
and all those batts you have, are most likely all ok and good to use, once charged back up.
(the reg/rec takes the 70+ VAC generated by the gen and converts it to 14.45 VDC and dumps any extra to ground. Often they are trashed if you try to jump the bike off a car or other full size vehicle THAT IS RUNNING. the Reg/rec tries to dump the extra amps comming off the car size alternator and can get cooked pretty fast. if you are going to jump a bike off a car/truck just connect the cables, leave the engine of the car/truck off... look at that giant size battery on the car/truck and the little one on your TL... that car/truck batt has about 10 times the cranking amps. If it can't turn over the TL, something else is wrong. Often what happens is the stock battery goes to hell... the pilot gets a jump from someone and in the process cooks the Reg/rec. gets a new batt...... that runs down....... well you see the chain of events that happens... sound fimilar?)
I have two regulators and I've switched them out and tested the volts at the battery with the bike running and i've never been able to get more then 13.8 volts with either reg installed. Is there a way to test the reg itself to see if its within specs or do you just go by what volts are showing at the battery??
I just go by the volts showing on the batt when connected and engine running. Should go up and down a little if you rev the engine. but must be above 13.96 (a fully charged battery lead acid battery voltage) It needs to be high enough to push electrons back into the batt and reverse the reaction (charge).
it's a diode bridge with a down stream voltage regulation transistor. not alot of parts but because it shunts the extra to ground it gets hot. Plus suzuki mounts it right behind and above the rear jug exhaust spigot, that is why there are vents in the tail plastics, to allow the heat from the rear exhaust spigot and the reg/rec to escape.
some smart electronics guy I'm sure could test it and tell you if all is working, i'm not that smart.
My battery has been getting weak (I think its just time for a new one) and I jumped it 2 times with a running car today.... did I ruin my reg/rec? I rode for an hour after that and it started just fine after that hour.
hard to say mobilesuit... what are your voltage readings when the bike is idleing ..and again at 5k rpm, using the voltmeter to read the voltage at the battery.
the possiblity of wiping out your R/R from a running car jump start is always a possiblilty. you'll have to take some measurments and get back to us. be sure to use a battery charger to bring your battery up. Leave the trickle charger on over night, then try testing again.
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