sorry I cant help mate I have my own electrical puzzle to sort out ! fecking tlI have an old vfr (1991). who's tacho will not work . Two wire connection on back ,one earth ,one (pulse) going direct to ecu module .
I replaced tacho with another one but still no movement of needle . Its doing my head in and pocket ($)
At first I thought pulse sensor but I have good spark so that's out .Then I thought tacho but now that's out .Ecu maybe ,I give in . Any idea ?
I do have currant going to tacho ,but strangely it seems to get less when I rev motor though I have no idea if it is a currant or ohms I'm reading .
I would have expected the reading to go up with rev's not down With tacho connected currant (or ohms) reads a lot lower .
Electrical stuff isn't my idea of fun .(or understanding )
Any auto elec . genius out there .
I have an old vfr (1991). who's tacho will not work . Two wire connection on back ,one earth ,one (pulse) going direct to ecu module .
I replaced tacho with another one but still no movement of needle . Its doing my head in and pocket ($)
At first I thought pulse sensor but I have good spark so that's out .Then I thought tacho but now that's out .Ecu maybe ,I give in . Any idea ?
I do have currant going to tacho ,but strangely it seems to get less when I rev motor though I have no idea if it is a currant or ohms I'm reading .
I would have expected the reading to go up with rev's not down With tacho connected currant (or ohms) reads a lot lower .
Electrical stuff isn't my idea of fun .(or understanding )
I replaced tacho with another one but still no movement of needle . Its doing my head in and pocket ($)
At first I thought pulse sensor but I have good spark so that's out .Then I thought tacho but now that's out .Ecu maybe ,I give in . Any idea ?
I do have currant going to tacho ,but strangely it seems to get less when I rev motor though I have no idea if it is a currant or ohms I'm reading .
I would have expected the reading to go up with rev's not down With tacho connected currant (or ohms) reads a lot lower .
Electrical stuff isn't my idea of fun .(or understanding )
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
sorry I cant help mate I have my own electrical puzzle to sort out ! fecking tl
do you have a manual
if not go to
www.carlsalter.com and download one
the tacho troubleshooting is on page 18 -14
if not go to
www.carlsalter.com and download one
the tacho troubleshooting is on page 18 -14
Been there done that ,still giving me no joy .
Ok so I did some looking and....
your tacho is a voltmeter, it should also have a PCB consisting of the following
1 3 PIN IC Regulator,
1 smoothing capacitor,
a stabilizing cap for the IC regulator,
a blocking diode,
2 voltage divider resistors
and a trim potentiometer for calibration.
Basically this circuit will take the pulse from the output and average out the voltage.
For example a 12V squarewave pulse of 10ms duration at a rate of 20Hz (1200 rpm)
the average would be equal to
pulse magnitude x pulse duration divided by cycle duration
=pm x pd/cd
= 12V x 10ms/20Hz
=12V x 0.01s/0.05s
=12V x 0.2
= 2.4V
minus the voltage drop across the resistors, pot and the diode I'd imagine about 1.4V at idle. and as frequency increases the higher the voltage output gets.
all of which is rather useless info for you so I'll get to
testing.
Measure the frequency of the output from ecu with tacho unplugged, if it increases with rpm then the signal is likely to be fine.
Plug back in
Measure the voltage on the output terminals of the PCB, this also should rise with rpm.
If there is voltage at the tacho it should show deflection, if it doesn't then its poked (this is measured with it all connected up)
You could also connect the tacho without the regulator circuit to a 1.5V battery and then with 2 in series (3V) to test deflection.
If there is no voltage arising from the PCB output the there is a problem with one of its components.
If you are unable to test the frequency of the ecu, as your meter may not have Hz or rpm you can hook it up to a small speaker like a headphone.
but please use a resistor in series to limit the current flow, you should be able to hear the speaker buzz once the freq is over 30-40Hz depending on your ears.
Let me know how you get on.
your tacho is a voltmeter, it should also have a PCB consisting of the following
1 3 PIN IC Regulator,
1 smoothing capacitor,
a stabilizing cap for the IC regulator,
a blocking diode,
2 voltage divider resistors
and a trim potentiometer for calibration.
Basically this circuit will take the pulse from the output and average out the voltage.
For example a 12V squarewave pulse of 10ms duration at a rate of 20Hz (1200 rpm)
the average would be equal to
pulse magnitude x pulse duration divided by cycle duration
=pm x pd/cd
= 12V x 10ms/20Hz
=12V x 0.01s/0.05s
=12V x 0.2
= 2.4V
minus the voltage drop across the resistors, pot and the diode I'd imagine about 1.4V at idle. and as frequency increases the higher the voltage output gets.
all of which is rather useless info for you so I'll get to
testing.
Measure the frequency of the output from ecu with tacho unplugged, if it increases with rpm then the signal is likely to be fine.
Plug back in
Measure the voltage on the output terminals of the PCB, this also should rise with rpm.
If there is voltage at the tacho it should show deflection, if it doesn't then its poked (this is measured with it all connected up)
You could also connect the tacho without the regulator circuit to a 1.5V battery and then with 2 in series (3V) to test deflection.
If there is no voltage arising from the PCB output the there is a problem with one of its components.
If you are unable to test the frequency of the ecu, as your meter may not have Hz or rpm you can hook it up to a small speaker like a headphone.
but please use a resistor in series to limit the current flow, you should be able to hear the speaker buzz once the freq is over 30-40Hz depending on your ears.
Let me know how you get on.
Oh yeh before I forget.
Your multimeter should have 4 holes for probes left to right
10-20A input - mA Input (upto 1A) - Com (gnd/neg) - V/ohms/Hz
if you put your meter into any current modes (A) then the probe thats normally in the 4th hole needs to go into the appropriate current input 1st or 2nd.
the black always stays in the 3rd (com)
When the probe is in the 4th hole you can measure ohms, voltage or freq. A resistance measurement with voltage applied to it will give a false reading.
You'll know when you're measuring current as you need to break the circuit and put the multimeter in series with the circuit,
if you put it in parallel then you'll blow the fuse in the meter or bike as its basically a dead short.
There is literally a solid peice of copper and a fuse joining the 10/20A input to the com, you can test the fuse is good using the probe plugged in the 4th hole and sticking the probe end into the input.
A low (0.1-0.5) reading on resistance indicates a healthy fuse. A blown one will show a high value or overscale/over limit.
Your multimeter should have 4 holes for probes left to right
10-20A input - mA Input (upto 1A) - Com (gnd/neg) - V/ohms/Hz
if you put your meter into any current modes (A) then the probe thats normally in the 4th hole needs to go into the appropriate current input 1st or 2nd.
the black always stays in the 3rd (com)
When the probe is in the 4th hole you can measure ohms, voltage or freq. A resistance measurement with voltage applied to it will give a false reading.
You'll know when you're measuring current as you need to break the circuit and put the multimeter in series with the circuit,
if you put it in parallel then you'll blow the fuse in the meter or bike as its basically a dead short.
There is literally a solid peice of copper and a fuse joining the 10/20A input to the com, you can test the fuse is good using the probe plugged in the 4th hole and sticking the probe end into the input.
A low (0.1-0.5) reading on resistance indicates a healthy fuse. A blown one will show a high value or overscale/over limit.
Ok so I did some looking and....
your tacho is a voltmeter, ....
Basically this circuit will take the pulse from the output and average out the voltage.
......
Oh yeh before I forget.
Your multimeter should have 4 holes for probes left to right
.......
Excellent direction Juzz! :thumbup
Thanks for input .I bought a later model Tacho which looked the same .I then found out the later models ecu is different so it may not want to talk to my ecu as its not working .
I have the correct tacho coming but I think i'll be way for 5 weeks . I think the reading on the multi met. connected to the tach DROP when revs increase which I thought strange .
I have the correct tacho coming but I think i'll be way for 5 weeks . I think the reading on the multi met. connected to the tach DROP when revs increase which I thought strange .
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
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