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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250503317067&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Does anyone have any knowledge or experience about this alternative fan switch? The Hayabusa fan switch is the same as ours, according to the Ron Ayers microfiche.

Their ebay auction reads,"Brand new, OEM Suzuki for hot climate countries.
Racing Spec Fan Switch Upgrade – run cooler and increase your engine available power, avoid horsepower loss due to high temperature.
This Low Temperature Fan Switch upgrade reduces the cooling fan's activation temperature to 80°C / 177F from the stock setting of 102°C / 216F, thus improving the radiator's cooling efficiency. A great item that truly works! Easy to install. Requires no cutting of your original wiring - plugs directly into your factory wiring plug. Supplied with required connectors."
 

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Why not just put a manual switch in and turn it on whenever you want?
 

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Normal running temp is 82'C so it would be running all the time? :confused
 

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:stupid

A 90°C fan switch would be better!
 

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I was in contact with this guy while back when I did my research and I would not buy it of him for many reasons.. but that's to low of temp. for street. He mostly sells it to guys that drag Busas.
He try to convince me that it's better for fans to start even below/before the thermostat opens up at 180-182F and water starts to flow:coocoo.
Your fans would be on all the time since TL engine runs above 180F at any speed and much higher in traffic.
Don't bother with it
 

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The cold map is in till 82degrees. so you want the bike to get hotter than that. or it will be running on the wrong map.
 

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.....
Their ebay auction reads,"Brand new, OEM Suzuki for hot climate countries.
Racing Spec Fan Switch Upgrade – run cooler and increase your engine available power, avoid horsepower loss due to high temperature.
:confused I was always under the impresion that the hotter you can run an engine the better the effiency? Hotter is better - but not so hot things expand and contact / destroy oil film - not so hot the coolant boils but as hot as possible. It's boiling that causes problems with hot spots and stuff, where there's gas (steam), there is no coolant carrying away excess heat.

Small lightweight radiators with a high pressure cap rather than larger radiators with a low pressure cap does the job etc. There is a point where raising the temperature and pressure any further is offset by the need to alter the radiator construction to handle more pressure as more bulk and weight is needed so there's a haapy place in the middle. Lower pressure needs a larger radiator, higher pressure ends up with a bulkier radiator.

(If cooler was better, why do we have a cold map for under 80C that isn't as effiecient as the map for 80C+ ?)
 
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