I have been doing some reading up on different posts about ram air, different types of filter and lid off and on. I have been having problems with my bike not going as good as it should so i did the tb balance, tps, shims and got the pc dyno tuned.
I ended up with 130hp which made a little difference but still it just wouldnt pull or lift like it used to so i took the lide off to see what it would do and man was i shocked at the difference it feels like a new bike. But i just dont like the extra sound.
the faster you go . . . the more power you'll loose with the lid off . . . if you want a bit more go you could always change the sprockets . . I'd go up on the rear befor going down on the front . : )
If taking the airbox lid off gave you more power then you have a bigger problem somewhere else.
What exactly did you get when you payed for a Dyno Tune ?
Did it take him 2 hours to custom map it from tick over upwards or did he just do the last bit to give you the best power at 100% throttle & 100% rpm ?
I'm guessing your mapping in the real world area of the curve is way out, probably very rich if taking the airbox lid off makes a big difference.
i bought my bike with the lid off and the previous owner didnt have it but my bike runs strong low mid and high...i plan to put a lid on it because i am very curious about how it will run with the lid on...if runs better with the lid back on i will be in for some big fun...
btw i also changed sprockets...16/40 but going to 16/42
Maybe I missed it, but what kind of bike are you riding? The TLS and TLR have very different air boxes. Removing the lid on the TLS will allow unfiltered air to enter - definitely a bad idea.
I agree your mapping probably sucks (assuming the obvious stuff is ok such as a clean filter etc). The claimed 130hp is a bit of a tip-off assuming your bike is mostly stock.
Also, might it be that the clutch is slipping a bit then grabbing again? That'd give a soft feel when riding around and no difference on the dyno.
a yosh box can only adjust the fueling in three places....top middle and bottom in the rev range..... a pc 111 adjusts it every 250 or 500 rpm(cant remember which) and also against throttle postion......really needs to be set up on a braked dyno.....took 3 hrs to do mine......
A Yosh Box is like painting your house with a 6 foot roller, PCII/III is like with a 2" brush
The yosh box adjustment might look ok at 100% throttle at say 5000rpm, but 50% throttle at the same rpm could be miles out, the Yosh Box doesn't come anywhere near close to a custom mapped PC for both performance and fuel economy
A PCII takes a long time to custom map, but I thought one of the main points of the PCIII was that it was much simpler and only took a fraction of the time as it works on more of an "autotune" type system for interpolating the intermediate values :O
Yes, the PCII has to have the fueling adustments manually entered and is pretty time consuming, the PCIII has twice as many box's but holds the load/throttle position steady on the braked dyno, samples the exhaust then fills the box in automatically. It then releases the brake fractionally and moves onto the next box, resamples and so on. You basically do from about 2k-6k with this method which is where the real world riding is done.
Obviously the high end rpm is done more conventionally by holding the chosen throttle position and the dyno lets it pull from say 5k rpm to the red line and shows the fuel/air for that slice of sampling, you then manually fill those box's in. Otherwise you would be holding an engine at say 9500rpm at 100% throttle whilst it samples etc, not very kind on the engine when you might have 30 samples to take around that rpm range.
Likewise from tickover to 2-3k is manually done to a degree as it's almost impossible to keep a steady brake on the dyno without the chain trying to slap itself off the bike.
Either way a custom map should take 2-3 hours and cost about £200-£250 if done right, but you end up with a totally different bike that has the perfect fueling at any throttle position at any rpm/load.
Thats why my race bike will pick the front up in the first 4 gears just by cracking the throttle, the fueling is perfect instantly.
Yeah I have a pc3 which was tuned. I have the graph but no scanner. I'll take a photo of it and post it up tonight when I get home. I put barnett springs 4 years ago the clutch feels fine. I just wanted to kno if anyone has a different setup and if they feel a difference.
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