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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am looking at buying a '97 TL1000S. It is owned by a friend of mine who doesnt ride it as much as they used to. My problem is I am a little unnerved by some of the things I have read up on the model. The biggest I have ever ridden before was a bandit 600, and I was just wondering if there is anything to really worry about with this model.

The bike has just over 9k miles on it and was laid down on the right side last year, but took little damage. A few parts got replaced, but still has some cosmetic damage (scraped fairings and a little on the tank on that side) but nothing some bondo and paint wouldn't fix up just fine. The exhaust has also been converted to a single pipe with a carbon yoshi can. I think the price is right, and the bike is a beauty, but I wanted to ask some experts on the model for their opinion. It would be street mainly, but possible track in the future. I just have been dying to ride again and its hard to pass up.

Any thoughts?
 

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I am looking at buying a '97 TL1000S. It is owned by a friend of mine who doesnt ride it as much as they used to. My problem is I am a little unnerved by some of the things I have read up on the model. The biggest I have ever ridden before was a bandit 600, and I was just wondering if there is anything to really worry about with this model.

The bike has just over 9k miles on it and was laid down on the right side last year, but took little damage. A few parts got replaced, but still has some cosmetic damage (scraped fairings and a little on the tank on that side) but nothing some bondo and paint wouldn't fix up just fine. The exhaust has also been converted to a single pipe with a carbon yoshi can. I think the price is right, and the bike is a beauty, but I wanted to ask some experts on the model for their opinion. It would be street mainly, but possible track in the future. I just have been dying to ride again and its hard to pass up.

Any thoughts?
are you in the uk?
 

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dont bother with an s, buy an r

Or stick with the bandit and buy a 1200
Don't worry about our mark, he's just pissed cause he can't ride his yet. All he can do is hang his flag in different places, and dream. :lol

Buy it, then worry later.
I had a '03 600 bandit, and the TL is a completely different animal. You'll love it.
I personally didn't like the bandit it didn't have enough go in it. I regretted not buying the 1200. either way I'm glad I got my TL instead. :thumbup
 

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Don't worry about our mark, he's just pissed cause he can't ride his yet. All he can do is hang his flag in different places, and dream. :lol

Buy it, then worry later.
I had a '03 600 bandit, and the TL is a completely different animal. You'll love it.
I personally didn't like the bandit it didn't have enough go in it. I regretted not buying the 1200. either way I'm glad I got my TL instead. :thumbup
but chris, your a dreamer too......... cuz whether you hav a bandit, tls, tlr or even a aston martin, you still need licence to ride!!!
 

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I've got one it in my wallet, just cant use it yet. Not long to go now though. couple of weeks and I'm back in the game.
 

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TL1000S

In no particular order.

Look for marks on the frame behind the brake and gear shift,check the the ends are not broken off the plastic section under the head light,sure signs of being down.

Check the steering stop lug at the front of the steering head and triple clamp stops.

Check lock to lock distance to the fuel tank.

Look for any oil residue around the sump plug,look for that oil residue but the sump plug area wiped down.

Check the front brake rotors for any pulsing and excess clearance (axial and radial) at the 10 buttons.

Check the rear rotor for excess wear and the inner side for signs of stuck caliper pistons.

Check all calipers for uneven pad wear.

Check for any play in the steering head,worst case an ovaled bearing cup bore.

Of course check the rear damper mount brackets (L/H mainly) and steering head for stress cracks.

Check the condition of the radiator front for general damage,check the radiator end tanks for beng pushed in at the fairing bolt attachment points. (Been down)

Check for any clutch updates,springs or plates to avoid slippage.

Check for signs of any leakage around the water pump/oil seal bleed hole at the front of the R/H engine case.Check that same area for signs of being cleaner than the surrounding area also.

Check for general condition overall,not a wiped down in the easy spots type thing.

Check the condition of the chain and sprockets and if it looks to have been maintained (not a oil slick)

Check the cush drive for excess play,they have a single seal bearing,it should be swapped for fully sealed anyway. (imo)
If you can raise the wheels,even better.

Check for any oil around the front sprocket area (chain lube can be deceiving)

The rear SOAS spring unit is a little harder,bounce the rear and listen for any squeaking,the chrome will wear on the inner side of the shaft first leading to inner bush wear then failure.

Check the SOAS linkage for excess side movement if you can (most wear is at the top point at the outside,the shim can wear into the link itself) the bolt clearance does not help.

Look for marks on the swingarm in line with the mufflers.

Any kind of suspension improvements are a bonus.

Look for stress cracking around the front indicators.

Check the condition of the fluid in the radiator overflow tank,check the area where the hose comes out at the rear of the engine,L/H side.

Check underneath the clutch cover for oil residue or signs of being wiped down.

Look for hack mods.

Check under the seat and tail for general condition.

Check the wiring loom from the front fuse box,it can rub through on the fairing bracket.


and so on..............
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ok -so got pics, whats the price, and where are you?

That will start then we can tell you what we would pay
Well the price is $2000, which aint bad considering it blue books $3095 in FL. I have some pics, but none of them show the damage on the other side really, but i know the details of the accident. Ill take some more this weekend when I go take it for a test drive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I would pay 1200 for a wrecked on one side S with a straight frame if everything else looks good
well i wouldn't call it wrecked on one side. It wasn't high speed or anything and other than some cosmetic damage on the fairings and the brake lever, the rest of the bike was fine. Surprisingly the tank was fine too. Hard to describe without the pics here, so Ill post them later this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
True, but it doesn't need a new fairing. It didn't wear too deep into it, so I think I'll just bondo/paint it rather than replace it.
 

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2000 is too high. I paid 2100 for one that needed nothing but to be ridden last year.

For a fixer upper, you should be on Chuck's side of $1600. I wouldn't go higher than 1600.
 
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