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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

From last week I noticed my 3rd gear jump under hard accelaration from low rpm, over the weekend it has become worse and as soon as I hit 3rd doing 3k rpm and hit 3/4 to full throttle there is a jump on the gears some time it does it 2 even 3 jumps before hitting 7-8k rpm.

I am suspecting a broken gear tooth on the 3rd as it is the only gear it does it in. If I do second up to 9k rpm and go to 3rd it runs thru without any probs!

How big of a job is it to get the tranny out and how much will gears set me back?

Thanks for your assistance!!
 

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Sounds like a bent shift fork :dowhat
 

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Selector i mean :banghead
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The bike stays in 3rd gear it doesn't jump out of gear, there is a jump in the 3rd gear that feels like the gear slipping or jumping a tooth. I can select the gears fine just while in 3rd gear it does that!
 

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The Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow Moderator,
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Definately the gear, the shift forks only bend or get damaged when the gears push them over due to worn dogs etc.

Your looking at $100 per gear plus the following as a guide

Qty Description Part Number Each

1 No Oil Pump 16400-02FB0 $82.20
2 No Head Gasket 11141-02F01 $23.87
1 No Base Gasket (Front) 11241-02F01 $11.13
1 No Base Gasket (Rear) 11242-02F01 $11.13
1 No Clutch Cover gasket 11482-02F10 $12.82
1 No Generator Cover Gasket 11483-02F10 $9.42
4 No Big End Shells 12164-02F11-0C0 $10.90
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Sam,

I had a look thru the Manual and saw that I would need to take the engine appart, so it will be a huge learning experiance for me as I like to do it myself and I have never worked on a bike engine before but it looks like I can manage.

Will need to save up some money first as I found out last week I am going to be daddy again!

Thanks for the info!
 

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The Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow Moderator,
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Will need to save up some money first as I found out last week I am going to be daddy again!
Congratulations :hail
 

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I had a 3rd gear issue, but I wrecked $580.00 worth of gears, that looks like this.



My worst gear was 3rd, old on left new on right

 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok a guy I know also said it could be the Dogs on the gear that are worn, They can Weld them up and it will work again!

Would you weld up the dogs on your gears or buy new ones??
 

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The Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow Moderator,
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Ok a guy I know also said it could be the Dogs on the gear that are worn, They can Weld them up and it will work again!

Would you weld up the dogs on your gears or buy new ones??
New ones no questions.

Welding is one thing but they need machining and re-hardening, not worth the risk when you consider the labour and cost of gaskets to do it again, not to mention the risk of crashing if the gear fails and locks the rear wheel solid.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Sam,

Was thing the along the same line it seems to risky to get something welded up which can make you crash if they do a shitty job of it!

I might keep riding the bike and just skip third for now and do a complete gearbox rebuild next year? or get the cage running so the bike can stand and wait for a while!
 

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You could tear it down one weekend and order parts the next. TL motor is pretty simple to tear down, as motors go. The hardest part is timing the cams and there are some many helpful folks here, that will be a breeze.

 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the pics Doug!

It seems this will be my project for the next year or so as money wound allow for everthing at once!

Can I keep the big end bearing on the crank by not disconecting the conrods, and then just change my main bearing? And will the pistons seat again after removing them from the heads or will I need to get new rings as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok know once again I am scratching where there is no itch!!

What is the difference between the S and the R pistons, crank and rods?

Guy I know did a simple crank, rods and piston swap from a R motor into his S and he said it made a huge difference! Why??

Seeing as I have to open the motor and it has done 63k km I was thinging of doing a engine overhaul just to make sure I dont need to open it again after a few thousand k's.

What would be the better option, R internals or 1088 big bore convertion?
 

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The Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow Moderator,
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Can I keep the big end bearing on the crank by not disconecting the conrods, and then just change my main bearing? And will the pistons seat again after removing them from the heads or will I need to get new rings as well?
You can but I would strongly recomend replacing the shells and oil pump, just do a search on spun crank bearings......

Pistons and rings are fine, ideally check the end gaps but if you don't want to risk breaking a ring removing them they should be ok, just align the rings on the pistons as per the manual before refitting


Ok know once again I am scratching where there is no itch!!

What is the difference between the S and the R pistons, crank and rods?

Guy I know did a simple crank, rods and piston swap from a R motor into his S and he said it made a huge difference! Why??

Seeing as I have to open the motor and it has done 63k km I was thinging of doing a engine overhaul just to make sure I dont need to open it again after a few thousand k's.

What would be the better option, R internals or 1088 big bore convertion?
R Pistons are forged and slightly higher compression, nothing worth writing home about though. The guy who said it would make a huge difference is talking bollocks I'm affraid.

While the engine is open replace the oil pump, big end shells and ideally the gearbox bearings, if you do the gearbox bearings and don't buy them from Suzuki pay extra careful attention to the type/number/orientation of the seals/covers on the bearings or you will starve your gearbox of oil !!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok so I will just do a big and main bearing, oil pump from the later model S or R and all the bearings and gears I need to change on the gearbox. The S has more than enough power to get me into trouble anyway!

Thanks for the assistance know I need to make some money!!
 

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The Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow Moderator,
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Ok so I will just do a big and main bearing, oil pump from the later model S or R and all the bearings and gears I need to change on the gearbox. The S has more than enough power to get me into trouble anyway!
No need to do the crank main bearings as they never wear out before anything else plus you need a special Suzuki Tool to fit/remove them.
 

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Qty Description Part Number Each

1 No Oil Pump 16400-02FB0 $82.20
2 No Head Gasket 11141-02F01 $23.87
1 No Base Gasket (Front) 11241-02F01 $11.13
1 No Base Gasket (Rear) 11242-02F01 $11.13
1 No Clutch Cover gasket 11482-02F10 $12.82
1 No Generator Cover Gasket 11483-02F10 $9.42
4 No Big End Shells 12164-02F11-0C0 $10.90

Where can i buy it for these prices?
 
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