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Discussion Starter #1
Hi I am new to the forum and came here to see if I can get some help with my vw dune buggy I’m swapping a 2001 tl1000s engine onto. I have the main oem harness and I am trying to just hook it up to get it running. I have looped the kill switch wires and ignition wires and tilt sensor wires and the orange and red wire everyone says to loop and I put a 100 ohm resistor between the orange/red wire and the black and white wire. And it has new coils on it and I am still not getting any spark I need help on figuring out what I’m doing wrong or if there is an easy way to modify the harness or make a new one. Any help would be appreciated
 

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1998 TLS; 2001 TLR; 200X TLRSF
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.....I’m swapping a 2001 tl1000s engine onto. I have the main oem harness and I am trying to just hook it up to get it running. I have looped the kill switch wires and ignition wires and tilt sensor wires and the orange and red wire everyone says to loop and I put a 100 ohm resistor between the orange/red wire and the black and white wire. ...
Welcome to the Zone Gibbyster!

Where is this "Orange/Red wire" that you "looped? Which wire was it connected to?

Likewise, if you can provide a little more detail on the actual wire connections you made in the ignition circuit, we will be able to sort through what is missing.

The tilt sensor (TOS) cannot be looped with straight wire as the ECM is looking for a 62K ~ 68K ohm resistance across the TOS terminals.

Also, is the side stand relay in the circuit, and is the side stand switch still active, or has it been bypassed?

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The kick stand sensor has also been bypassed. Could I put a resistor between the tilt sensor wires and then will the ecm think there is a sensor there
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I found a tos sensor and wired it in. It is the oem one. And I double checked all my connections and still no spark. I read on a forum that the kill switch wires had to have a 100ohm resistor in them and so I found a resistor that is 99 ohm. Would that one ohm make a difference
 

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I found a tos sensor and wired it in. It is the oem one. And I double checked all my connections and still no spark. I read on a forum that the kill switch wires had to have a 100ohm resistor in them and so I found a resistor that is 99 ohm. Would that one ohm make a difference
Make sure the TOS is oriented properly. Otherwise it may disable the ignition and injectors.

The kill switch does not require a resistor. In fact, a resistor in that circuit will decrease the voltage available to the rest of the system - not good. And the resistor will likely overheat, unless is it a big one. The only 100 ohm resistor required in the system (that I can recall) is the anti-theft feature built into the ignition switch. If the ECM can't 'read' it when keyed on, it assumes the ignition is being hot-wired, and the ECM remains disabled.

At any rate, the one ohm difference will not make a difference.

If you had a set of TLS gauges, you could read the errors codes the ECM may be generating. That would make this project easier. :)



A couple other things occurred to me.....

I'll ask again. Is the side stand relay working?

Also, is there voltage (12 volts at key on) at ignition switch? At the kill switch? At the ECM (org/wht wires)?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
For the side stand switch I just spliced the green and black and white wire together. And what wires on the ignition switch need to have the resistor in them?
 

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I looked at your pictures, and I must say, Congratulations! You have quite a mess on your hands! :laugh

For the side stand switch I just spliced the green and black and white wire together.
That's fine. Connecting those two wires together should keep the relay engaged. However, it would be very helpful if we knew whether the side stand relay is functional or not. Is it passing power to the rest of the system? Is it switching and connecting the orange/blue wire to the yellow/red wire?
Until you can verify the functionality of that relay, everything downstream from it is inconsequential.


And what wires on the ignition switch need to have the resistor in them?
As for the ignition switch wires, the colors depend upon which side of the green connector you are looking at. On the ignition switch side, the wire is orange/yellow. On the loom side, the wire is orange/red. The ECM is looking for 100 ohms between that wire and Chassis ground (black/white).

You mentioned in your first post that the ignition switch is aftermarket. I didn't see a switch in your photos. Do the wires on the switch match the colors of the wires in the loom? The OEM switch has the resistor built into it, inside. Some aftermarket switches have the resistor, some don't. Does your switch have 6 wires coming out of it?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I was thinking about getting one of the micro squirt standalones but I don’t want to spend the money and then the engine needs even more work. Is there any place that could make a custom harness or somthing?or any diagrams to show wiring for one so I can make it myself
 

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Discussion Starter #15
For now I jsut spliced the wires together that go to the switch to make sure the engine didn’t need a stator or anything and the wires going to the side stand relay are also just cut and spliced together to complete that circuit
 

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The only diagram of a minimalist wire loom that comes to mind is the one Sam built for his race bike. It's in the forum somewhere, but will require some searching. Maybe CrashB made a diagram of it. I don't know. :O

I'm sure there are places that will build a custom harness for you, but it will cost you $$$.

The best you can do here is download the PDF TLS service manual from www.wotid.com.

Then download the color wiring diagram from CrashB's signature, or the Frequent Mods Forum.


Then you'll need to take some voltage measurements and let us know how far the power is getting in your system.
 

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I was thinking about getting one of the micro squirt standalones but I don’t want to spend the money and then the engine needs even more work. Is there any place that could make a custom harness or somthing?or any diagrams to show wiring for one so I can make it myself
You aren't listening to the smartest electrical guru we have...

I'm just a baby. And only posted over a thousand times...

And I still defer to my signature. :hail
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I plan on adding a turbo set up on this as well and if I do that wouldn’t I need to get somthing like the micro squirt ecu anyways? If so how hard is it to wire somthing like that up. I may just get one of them
 

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I plan on adding a turbo set up on this as well and if I do that wouldn’t I need to get somthing like the micro squirt ecu anyways? If so how hard is it to wire somthing like that up. I may just get one of them
Adding a turbo is out of my realm. However, IMHO, if you want to proof out the functionality of the basic engine, you will be time and money ahead by patching up the OEM loom and ECM to get it running. An after-market ECU would likely just complicate the process.


I also just noticed that I got my wire colors and relays mixed up in post #13. It should read as follows:

".....However, it would be very helpful if we knew whether the side stand relay is functional or not. Is it passing power to the rest of the system? Is it switching and connecting the orange/black wire to the orange/yellow wire?
Until you can verify the functionality of that relay, everything downstream from it is inconsequential."

:tillis
 
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