TLZone Forums banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,
1997 TL 1000S
MODs: PCV Power Commander, RS-3 Yoshimura exhaust

I very recently set out to adjust my valves as it was time. The bike has a very bad acceleration, which would bog with any extra throttle applied. It also did not like to idle and would frequently die at stop lights.

This bike was my Dad's motorcycle and he allowed it to sit for a long period of time causing the fuel tank to rust on the inside. I have opened up the tank and removed all excess sediment and replaced the fuel filter with the in-line setup. I originally believed the problem to be a continuation of the fuel contamination, so I decided to replace the in tank fuel filter as well as the in-line fuel filter. Both of which looked very bad. At the time of replacement for the filters I also cleaned out more solid debris within the fuel tank.

The valves are all within .001" of the factory spec for intake and exhaust. I have been chasing potential problems around for months now and haven't seem to made any forward progress, if anything it seems as though the bike has continued to worsen even after correcting what I believed to be the problems. I have read extensively on this site surrounding poor running issues and have attempted the same types of fixes recommended by other users. I have yet to perform a TB sync, as I couldn't imagine this to be the issue since I haven't manipulated it through any repairs. I believe this will be what I tackle tonight, just to get everything back to factory spec.

Please let me know if there are other obvious things that I should be looking at or any questions for information that I should submit as well. Thank you to all whom assist!
 

·
Moderator,
Joined
·
8,227 Posts
You need to do something to remove all the rust inside the tank or it will be a continuing problem with plugging up the fuel filter. There are several ways to do this and several systems on the market to do it, a search should come with plenty of options. You might need to replace the filter again after you're done with this.

The TPS needs to be adjusted. My experience was that most bikes when new were off. You should also balance the throttle bodies while you're at it. The proper order is adjust TPS, balance TBs, adjust YPS. The two together makes a huge difference in how the bike runs. And finally, IIRC the Power Commander requires that you calibrate it to the throttle, at least the version I had did. How to do that was in the instructions. If you don't have them they are probably online somewhere or someone here can tell you how to do it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I put the bike back together, at least to get it to the point of starting and adjusting the TB sync and TPS. One thing I failed to mention was when I was trying to diagnose the poor idling issues (dieing when idle at lights) I did notice that the boot that connects the throttle body to the actual cylinder there was clear evidence of a leak. I had done a throttle body sync and TPS adjustment prior to fixing this leak, which leaves me to believe that I set the TB unintentionally to balance it with this problem. I reset the throttle body back to factory spec at the 1 1/2 turns out and the bike fired up and seemed to idle much better than previously. I will adjust it finally in the near future and report back my findings. I didn't realize how much of an impact the leak would have on the vacuum balance between the cylinders after correcting this deficiency. I appreciate the help you guys all give, and hopefully the problem I had will help others in the future. With such a simple things to check and verify utilizing vacuum gauges, I will definitely use this in the future as a diagnosis tool rather than tearing apart my engine, and assuming the worst.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
This TL has very low miles on it, so the manifold was not cracked. I received this bike from my Dad, he only put about 6k miles on it and he is the original owner. It was actually leaking below the manifold, so I replaced the two o-rings and of course I stripped one of the (4) screws out while removing them so I just replaced those as well.
 

·
Upside Down Super Mod,
Joined
·
29,855 Posts
Might need to remove the injectors and have them cleaned / flow tested.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Might need to remove the injectors and have them cleaned / flow tested.
That was the very first thing done, all components in line with these injectors also looked pristine.

I got the bike back together, synced the TBs and adjusted the TPS (it was in normal limits). I took it around the block and the clutch refused to let any power through. I removed the outer clutch cover and to my surprise I found one of the steel disc was completely scorched from heat, as well as a Kevlar disc being extremely abnormally worn on the outer edge. What I felt was remarkably similar to the problem I was having before (lack of power when throttle applied) but the clutch didn’t feel terrible. Now I am starting to suspect this was a larger problem than originally assumed. The engine is idling much better now that intake leaks are removed, it still doesn’t want to idle well below 1500 rpm, though I suspect this is my own fault of poor syncing / adjustment. I am contemplating taking it to a company that tunes with the power commanders in hopes of that being the major culprit. It is backfiring just a bit when cold, but that does go away once it warms up. I will try to post a pic of the scorched steel plate when I get home tonight. Thanks for your suggestions though!
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top