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Discussion Starter #1
I have been corresponding with several members here in the states and abroad about the big bore kits for the TLR/S. I was hoping to have a web page up by now but I have been too busy completing cylinders and getting my formula honda prepped for next race season. So, I am expecting to begin taking orders and have a web page up in the first part of December 2008. Some features:
Pistons: Made by Arias (world class piston manufacturer for over 50 years)
102.5mm
420 grams
nitrided top rings
sides and tops will be coated per customers request at an extra charge.

Cylinders:
Stock cylinder: bored and re-sleeved with a made to order custom sleeve. Top is flanged and a viton o-ring is installed on the bottom. Cylinders will accept a .010 overbore.
Cylinder blocks will be coated with a heat dispersing coating which will bring temp down about 10-15 deg.

Crankshaft: For the 1140 only.
Stroked to give a true 2mm stroke. Crankshaft goes through a 10 step process of welding,truing,heat and nitride treatment, balancing and journals coated with Cerma Lube.

This will be explained in greater detail on the web page but this will work on a core exchange basis. You must send in your cylinders in order to receive a set back. This goes for the crank as well however, most of the time I prefer to use the same crankshaft from your motor as there are slight differences between models and clearances vary.

All kits will come with copper gaskets.

Please feel free to contact me via pm on the zone or e-mail [email protected] I check each daily.

Sorry for the delay but each kit is hand built and takes a little time to produce. Thanks, Kendall.....
 

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What will be the price for each of the services......:O
 

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:eatcorn

:devious
 

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sweet Kendall, I intend on winning the lotto this weekend and I am sure to call you as soon as my winnings get here. it's high time someone put a TLR back out on the track and kick some ass. haahaaaa.

thanks for the post,
 

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:drool :eatcorn

will you be selling cams, valves etc??

how about a fully assembled "worked motor" exchange service :devious this would be my preferred option, cause I can't be fuked building one when there are much better builders around :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #7
sweet Kendall, I intend on winning the lotto this weekend and I am sure to call you as soon as my winnings get here. it's high time someone put a TLR back out on the track and kick some ass. haahaaaa.

thanks for the post,
Thanks, it's really exciting to see the TLR back on the track with some added and reliable ponies under her, been working with a couple of racers in the UK getting them set up for next season in a support class to WSB!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
:drool :eatcorn

will you be selling cams, valves etc??

how about a fully assembled "worked motor" exchange service :devious this would be my preferred option, cause I can't be fuked building one when there are much better builders around :thumbup
I will have cams available as well-the 1088 uses the 189 grind from web and the 1140 uses a slightly different profile. We will be offering heads one mm oversize ready to bolt on and yes a complete motor exchange will be in the works but only in the 1140 configuration since the 1088 is a direct bolt on and can be done in a few hours.:thumbup
 

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I could live with having to exchange my std donk for a mere 1140cc :yes

Any idea on the hp/ft.lb its likely to produce :O and how reliable is it likely to be :O I don't want it to go bang after 10 laps :no 'cause ya'll know how fast us kiwi's ride :devious
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I could live with having to exchange my std donk for a mere 1140cc :yes

Any idea on the hp/ft.lb its likely to produce :O and how reliable is it likely to be :O I don't want it to go bang after 10 laps :no 'cause ya'll know how fast us kiwi's ride :devious
Both are extremely reliable-the 1140 requires an upgrade from the stock rods (included in kit) to Carrillo's. Both motors run hotter so we have decided to strip the cylinder blocks and coat with a heat dispersion coating. For the street I will recommend Evans Cool in place of standard coolant. We found a significant drop in temp. with the addition of these two products. For the track of course most organizations will not approve Evans Cool so the solution will have to be Water Wetter or Engine Ice products. As far as numbers go we still need to test the 1140. I am on the final assembly after an initial "run in" but the 1088 gave us 146hp with no remap. I think we had stock cams as well on that one. Also the 1140 comes with anti friction coatings which helps a bit too.:)
 

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kendall berg wrote,been working with a couple of racers in the UK getting them set up for next season in a support class to WSB!
is that a team that will run tlr`s all season or just for that race,would be good to see the tiller up againts the ducks,
 

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That looks like steel liners. No heat issues?

Greetings
Rufer
 

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Discussion Starter #17
kendall berg wrote,been working with a couple of racers in the UK getting them set up for next season in a support class to WSB!
is that a team that will run tlr`s all season or just for that race,would be good to see the tiller up againts the ducks,
A couple of privateers from what I understand run tillers against 1098's, KTM's, and Aprilia's in a support class to World Superbike. I don't know all of the tracks they race at but I do know they race at Donnington and maybe Brands Hatch.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
That looks like steel liners. No heat issues?

Greetings
Rufer
If you are a street rider and running a 50/50 mix then You may find you overheat in traffic. We left a small amount of the aluminum barrel in place to improve heat transfer, we also coat the cylinder blocks with a heat dispersing coating which greatly improves heat transfer. I recommend evanscooling.com for both motors. If you're a racer you may want to check your rulebook first. I can say with certainty that a stock cylinder can only take a max bore of 2mm, anything over that will crack at the 90 degree angle where the spigot extends from the bottom of the block. Iron liner is the best choice for strength plus there is enough material left for a .010 overbore in the future.
 

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I'm not a roadrace expert, but for MX bikes, the problem with running steel liners and heat hasn't been coolant temps but rather rates of expansion and heat transfer. Neither are usually fatal, but usually require much more frequent top end jobs. Great to see new products for the TL:thumbup
 
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