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Reply With Quotesounds like you have no hose to the intake air pressure sensor
I'm trying to get my TL1000R to run right and I'm having a few issues that need to be fixed.
-Smoke from the exhaust and a strong exhaust smell. I assume it's unburnt fuel? Not oil bluish or coolant white just smokey.
-Plugs are fouled after running for any amount of time
-Front intake valves look wet immediately after the engine is turned off but the rear cylinder intake valves look dry
I've already replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, battery, and even the injectors/injector harness but i'm still getting these issues. Not sure what else to try and diagnose (bad ecu?, bad wiring?, bad sensor?) to get this thing to run.
As of know I'm running it without the airbox (all sensors connected though), no fast idle (completely removed), or any of the emissions stuff (those two metal discs in the airbox and the CA evap stuff)
sounds like you have no hose to the intake air pressure sensor
cheers stu
Naked TLS 97 , D port heads, TRE, Carrozzaria gold wheels, GSXR750 triples and forks, R1 calipers, Ti Force titanium exhaust system, welded clutch centre, ring-in CCC, polished pressure plate, 999 ducati radiator, custom handlebar fairing, polished ali screen, TLR clocks, Van reservoirs, TLR swingarm, TLR Ohlins rear shock, Norton Commando handlebars on 65mm risers, extra heavy polished billet brass bar-ends, custom shaped seat pad, billet levers and pegs, stainless brake lines, modified airbox, PC11 ,undertail, hugger, clear taillight lens, hidden LED number plate lights, Personal number plate (97TLS),SV coils, ring-in pushrod seal saver.
So I plugged the vacuum hose into the IAP sensor and know as soon as I start it it idles to 6-7kI'm using the vacuum hose off the front throttle body connected like in the manual (with the vacuum damper).
Are the throttle bodies closing proper ?
The return (closing) cable ok ?
Or choke cable stuck open ?
Or was it somehow elevated on purpose to try and keep it alive and running.....now you have turn it back to normal.
I'm out of ideas, next.
I adjusted the idle so it was barely open and the throttle cables have slack in them so they aren't pulling the plates open. I've reset the idle to adjuster screw to zero (it's not contacting anything now. I did notice last night that while trying to start it backfired (fouled plugs and full of fuel) and the front throttle body wasn't fully seated in the rubber boot. It was due to the backfire but I've reattached the bodies to the rubber boots and tightened them to hopefully rule out that vacuum leak. Vacumm hoses look good but they are pretty old so I may just swap all of them out to make it easier. My next test it get the bike started without the IAP sensor vacuum hose connected and once it's running reattach it to see if the RPM's shoot up again.
When you swap out the vacuum hoses, be mindful not to discard the ones with the internal air jets.Originally Posted by some guy #2
See page 4-60 for the locations of the air jets.
January 2012 TLOTM & BBOTM
Yes of course air leaks...
Yes check if you have the proper hose going to the the AIP (air jet or not).
And that the other hoses have their jets if needed.
I had a failed mod once because of jets...
Looking at the manual, the jets have different values so is there a way to verify which is which? I found all the old hoses but since I mixed and matched I'm not sure which ones go where. Is there a good source to find them online (or a store) to purchase?
The jets are shown in the online parts fiche images - items #35, #40, & #41.....
For example:
https://www.cheapcycleparts.com/oemp...-fitting-parts
The fiche shows #40 & #41 in the fuel pressure regulator hoses; and #35s in the IAP vacuum hoses.....
January 2012 TLOTM & BBOTM
I don't have an R, but looking at the manual,
(I'm looking at page 297 of manual.)
If you are replacing all the hoses and have the jet in your hands, my guess is you can eyeball the sizes, from smallest to biggest 0.5, 1.0, 1.8, .
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