O learned denizens,

Since my last adventure throwing motorcycles on top of one another, I've got the TL back together again. Among other fiddling I decided that I really was fed up with the bite point on the clutch being so far out in the travel.

Having heard someone on here comment that aftermarket levers weren't a good match dimensionally, it occurred to me that I could, with a small amount of elbow grease, fix that.

My bike was fitted with blue anodized levers when I got it, which are plainly aftermarket. I ordered a set of replacement levers in the colour god intended (natural aluminium) but noted that the part number on the blue lever (JY623) was identical to the silver lever. This gave me a lever I didn't care about to experiment on.

The lever assembly comes apart pretty easily, I just used a socket with an outer diameter about 11mm (in my case a 1/4" drive 1/4" socket) as a drift to tap out the brass bush until the two parts of the lever part company. The smaller part is the part to attack.

I took "about 2mm" off the faces marked in the photo, which are the ones that allow the small part to pivot around the brass bush and change the reach of the lever. I just used a rough cut file and then a second cut and finally some 320 grade paper to make it look less hideous. When I say "about 2mm" it's probably less than that - may be 1.5mm. I just drew around the unfiled part with a Sharpie and filed down until the mark was all gone.

The next thing I discovered was that with this material removed, the clutch microswitch wasn't being switched. I got some 1.8mm aluminium from a discarded draft excluder that hasn't made its way out to the big wastebin yet and glued it onto the lever in the location shown. Yes, glued it with "Liquid Nails". We'll see how that holds up to big twin vibration and California sunshine in due course.

I lost the little ball from under the adjustment dial screw in not one but both levers. You can see where I have pointed out not to lose it. It makes no difference because the adjustable lever finds the centre of one of the four faces on the screw. (Shrug) I'm over it already.

The result is a clutch bite exactly where I want it in the travel. The lever is still adjustable in four positions, there's no drag on engaging first gear and no slip anywhere.

I should emphasize this isn't a substitute for getting your centre welded (mine isn't) or making sure the recuperation port in the clutch master cylinder is scrupulously clean (mine is). After you have your clutch working well, file your aftermarket lever to get the bite point you want.

I can't believe how much difference it has made to riding the bike. Where before I was distracted continuously, now I can ignore the clutch characteristics. It is so much more intuitive than previously. Coupled with my weekend brake rebuilds (more in another thread, maybe) it has transformed the bike.

A ridiculous assertion? It depends how much crap feel bothers you, I guess. But I obviously found it much more distracting than I realized.

Your mileage may vary. And remember, it's easy to file a bit more metal off if you underdo it. It's hard to file it back on if you overdo it.

Clutch Bite Point - Solved-tl1000r-lever-1.jpg
Clutch Bite Point - Solved-tl1000r-lever-2.jpg