Dead bike...electrical?
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Thread: Dead bike...electrical?

  1. #1
    GP Champ AU.TLS's Avatar
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    Dead bike...electrical?

    Recently had problems with the plug on the starter relay melting so replaced that and all was fine. But the other day I went out for a ride and stopped for a break then went to start the bike and I'm not getting any lights or display when I turn the key. Similar symptoms to when the plug melted except no amount of jiggling of the plug or bending the pins could get it to come alive again. Checked all the plugs up near the ignition and they're all still clean with no corrosion. Battery shop load tested the battery and it was fine.

    I've tested the top two pins on the starter relay and i'm getting 12.5V but I read on here that testing across the bottom pins you should see a reading of 3-6ohms which I'm not. Does that indicate that my starter relay is dead? Not sure what else to check now or if I should just buy a new starter relay to test?


  2. #2
    AMA Pit Boss Six5's Avatar
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    Have you checked the Main Fuse? (edit: After thinking about it. You said the are 12 volts at the two top pins, so main fuse should be good. )


    Even if the coil in the relay were open (no measurable resistance), you should still have lights and such when you key on.

    Often when the starter relay connector overheats, the relay itself deforms and burns as well as the loom connector. It is best to replace both parts when they have encountered serious heat.

    The lights, ignition, and even the starter button power all come through that RED wire coming from the starter relay connector.

    Also verify the battery cable connections. They vibrate loose.

    One more thing. Check the main loom ground wire. It is a Blk/Wht wire (14 gage) that runs parallel to the negative battery cable. It has a spade connector that tends to corrode.
    January 2012 TLOTM & BBOTM


  3. #3
    AMA Pit Boss snowblind's Avatar
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    Was the replacement relay OEM? I've had problems with the aftermarket ones. They just don't seem to handle the loads very well.
    Like my TL I'm old, overweight and badly maintained but I can still surprise you by how fast I can move.

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    AMA Pit Boss Moyston's Avatar
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    I wouldn't go buying anything until I check all the known faults for causing it , but dont focus just on the relay as the main prob, cld be a coincidence.....you prob have already , that earth cable from the relay that connects to the side of the engine, just above the front sprocket...as six says..thats were the little spade is and can corrode....


    Stop staring at my Tits!!

  6. #5
    Platinum Subscriber JoshCampbell's Avatar
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    I just had the exact same issue not two weeks ago. Swapped out the old 4-wire connector with a new one and all is well


    Give this thread a quick read-over. Six5 threw out an excellent piece on the relay.
    __________________________________________________ _______________________
    The TL1000R is the only bike that makes me nervous, because in my dreams it's the only bike I die on

  7. #6
    MotoGP Pit Boss The Ring-In's Avatar
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    if you can't sort it then PM me

    I'm in brisbane too...


    cheers stu

    Naked TLS 97 , D port heads, TRE, Carrozzaria gold wheels, GSXR750 triples and forks, R1 calipers, Ti Force titanium exhaust system, welded clutch centre, ring-in CCC, polished pressure plate, 999 ducati radiator, custom handlebar fairing, polished ali screen, TLR clocks, Van reservoirs, TLR swingarm, TLR Ohlins rear shock, Norton Commando handlebars on 65mm risers, extra heavy polished billet brass bar-ends, custom shaped seat pad, billet levers and pegs, stainless brake lines, modified airbox, PC11 ,undertail, hugger, clear taillight lens, hidden LED number plate lights, Personal number plate (97TLS),SV coils, ring-in pushrod seal saver.

  8. #7
    GP Champ AU.TLS's Avatar
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    So went over all the grounds and plugs again and couldn't find any corrosion or issues. I just received a new lithium battery for my DR650 and decided to chuck it in the TL and try it and what do you know turned the key and all was good.

    Took the TL battery to a different battery shop this time to get tested again and this place said it's dropped a cell. So bought a new battery and seems to be all good now. Still don't 100% trust the bike at the moment because that's the second time i've been left stuck on the side of the road. Might just do some short rides for a while to make sure all the electrical gremlins are gone.

    Thanks for the help guys.

  9. #8
    AMA Pit Boss Six5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AU.TLS View Post
    ..... So bought a new battery and seems to be all good now. Still don't 100% trust the bike at the moment because that's the second time i've been left stuck on the side of the road. Might just do some short rides for a while to make sure all the electrical gremlins are gone.

    .....
    Glad you are back on the road again.

    However, until you address and fix the underlying problems that cause the starter relay connector to fail, you will continue to have battery charging problems and low system voltages. Don't stray too far from home.
    January 2012 TLOTM & BBOTM


  10. #9
    GP Champ AU.TLS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Six5 View Post
    Glad you are back on the road again.

    However, until you address and fix the underlying problems that cause the starter relay connector to fail, you will continue to have battery charging problems and low system voltages. Don't stray too far from home.
    When the plug melted the first time I replaced the connector with a new one and at the same time I did the R/R mod using a wiring kit from Eastern Beaver and a yamaha r1 regulator because I was having issues with the lights dimming when I revved the engine. I now get 13.7v at the terminals when the bike is idling.

    What else should I be looking at to ensure the bike is more reliable?

  11. #10
    AMA Pit Boss Six5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AU.TLS View Post
    .... I did the R/R mod using a wiring kit from Eastern Beaver and a yamaha r1 regulator because I was having issues with the lights dimming when I revved the engine. ....

    What else should I be looking at to ensure the bike is more reliable?
    That's good. The installation of the Charging Mod gets you half way there. Now you need to remove the headlight current from going through the starter relay connector. That is the bulk of the current in the system and it over heats that little terminal on the solid RED wire. The most common fix is the Headlight Relay Mod. It provides a separate, heavy duty path for the headlight current, and makes the system very reliable.

    Be sure to use quality fuse holders or fuse blocks in the Charging Mod and H-R Mod. I have had both systems fail due to less than 'quality' fuse holders. The fuse holder in the Headlight Relay circuit on my TLS overheated recently and opened the circuit. It lasted five years, but better components could make it nearly bulletproof.


    The details for the H-R Mod can be found here.
    https://www.tlzone.net/forums/frequen...ki-wiring.html
    January 2012 TLOTM & BBOTM


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