lights on dials dulling why? - Page 2
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Thread: lights on dials dulling why?

  1. #11
    Baby Twin
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    It stays the same when the brakes are pressed but maybe that's because the brake bulbs blew the other night. When I revved it dropped to 12.9v is that normal

  2. #12
    AMA Pit Boss snowblind's Avatar
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    Yes. 12.9 is getting a little on the low side tho'.

    Next test is to measure the voltage at the brake light connector. Need to see why the lamps are blowing.
    Like my TL I'm old, overweight and badly maintained but I can still surprise you by how fast I can move.

  3. #13
    AMA Pit Boss Six5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by maddi680 View Post
    ..... When I revved it dropped to 12.9v is that normal
    Quote Originally Posted by snowblind View Post
    Yes. 12.9 is getting a little on the low side tho'.

    .....

    Yes, it's normal for a tired old TL charging system that needs to be fixed.

    When it is revved (4K ~ 5K rpm), the voltage should be around 14 volts.

    When you find the reason the bulbs are blowing, you have another project waiting for you.
    January 2012 TLOTM & BBOTM


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  5. #14
    Baby Twin
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    Just checked there now the brake light reads 12.6 and then 10.6 when the brakes are pressed?
    The tail lights are still working but seem very bright. They are reading 12.8v

  6. #15
    AMA Pit Boss snowblind's Avatar
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    That's an excessive drop for a couple of brake lamps. I suspect you have a short from the R/R output into the brake light rails.

    Your charging current is being diverted into the brake lights.

    At this point I'll defer to Six5 with his encyclopedic knowledge of the wiring system to give you a likely location to search.
    Like my TL I'm old, overweight and badly maintained but I can still surprise you by how fast I can move.

  7. #16
    Baby Twin
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    Ok thanks mate. Does the r/r from a zzr1400 fit? I think I read somewhere it does?

  8. #17
    GP Champ rxf610's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by maddi680 View Post
    Ok thanks mate. Does the r/r from a zzr1400 fit? I think I read somewhere it does?
    The unit snowy is referring to does not "fit" directly. It is however a huge upgrade. Look up the "charge mod". Ask any questions you may have...

    The cheapest option is a wiring kit and a used r/r. You'll also need an inline fuse.

    I suggest the sh775ba unit. You can find them from Polaris atvs.

    Something a la
    http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...162635&alt=web

    And
    http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...787822&alt=web

    It does sound like you have something causing those bulbs to burn though... need to sort that first...

  9. #18
    AMA Pit Boss Six5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by maddi680 View Post
    Just checked there now the brake light reads 12.6 and then 10.6 when the brakes are pressed?
    The tail lights are still working but seem very bright. They are reading 12.8v
    Were these voltage measurements taken with the engine running?
    January 2012 TLOTM & BBOTM


  10. #19
    Baby Twin
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    Quote Originally Posted by Six5 View Post
    Were these voltage measurements taken with the engine running?
    Yes they sure were

  11. #20
    AMA Pit Boss Six5's Avatar
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    I'm struggling to get a clear picture of what is actually failing here, but I'll take a stab at it....

    Quote Originally Posted by snowblind View Post
    .....

    Next test is to measure the voltage at the brake light connector. Need to see why the lamps are blowing.
    Quote Originally Posted by maddi680 View Post
    Just checked there now the brake light reads 12.6 and then 10.6 when the brakes are pressed?
    The tail lights are still working but seem very bright. They are reading 12.8v

    maddie, at this point, we have already confirmed that the engine was running, so the charging system was at least functioning as best it could.

    Were the tail light bulbs new, or were they still the bulbs with the burnt out brake filaments?

    Even so, if the measurement was taken "at the brake light connector" as snowblind suggested, why was 12.6V present before the brake was activated? There would be 12V (nominal) on the Org/Grn wire at the brake light switch, but no voltage should be on the Wht/Blk wire until the brake switch was activated.

    Also, (assuming the bulbs were fully functional) the 10.6V could be explained by poor terminal connections and a tired brake light switch. As current flowed through the brake filaments, voltage drops would form across the other resistive elements in the circuit.

    On top of these questions and conclusions, there is nothing lethal about 12.6V on a brake light bulb. That level is well within its limits. Did you happen to get a bad lot of bulbs? Did you accidentally grab the 6 volt counter parts?




    Quote Originally Posted by snowblind View Post
    That's an excessive drop for a couple of brake lamps. I suspect you have a short from the R/R output into the brake light rails.

    Your charging current is being diverted into the brake lights.

    .....
    Snowblind, what is leading you to this suspicion? Even if such a short existed, the bulbs should be able to handle the 15 volts coming out of the R/R. Help me Obiwan....
    January 2012 TLOTM & BBOTM


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