Front tire problems - Page 2
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Thread: Front tire problems

  1. #11
    Superbike Twin
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    Sullivan county new york
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    2001tls, full yoshi, tre, wiseco fmc104, air box mod, pair removed, -1 +1, R1 damper mod

  2. #12
    Baby Twin
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    Oct 2013
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    Is it possible that the fork oil never having been changed could cause these problems? My bike has 28k on the odo and the oil has never been changed according to the only other owner, but that being said the other tires I had on gave me no problems with the current oil so that doesn't seem to make much sense. The tires are balanced and everything else seems to be in check, no cracks, loose bits etc and the chain and sprocket are lubed and good to go as I have already said. I have experimented with different tire pressures ranging from 33F/33R all the way up to 38F/40R and no matter what the speed wobbles still happen. It is my understanding that what is happening is the early stages of a "tank slapper" and the only thing preventing that is the steering dampener. I tried to see if I could ride through the oscillation of the front tire (with my dampener fully tightened) but by the time I hit 115-120 it was so severe I had to lay off. I don't usually ride in the triple digits but I find it extremely irritating that I can't, if the bike can easily get to 160+ with me on it I want to be able to get into the low 100s without the fear that I will be thrown off the bike. I may ask my mechanic if he will balance them again just to see if he made a mistake but other than that I do not know what else I can do.

  3. #13
    Superbike Twin dtracymoto's Avatar
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    Jan 2005
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    Wasatch front of Utah
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    The Michelin is a taller tire, it needs to with it's own kind. The shinkos are black and round(mostly). This combo has thrown the chassis geometry all off. This is a major reason/result why not to mis-match brands, some can be okay, some, not so much.... you are asking a LOT out of the shinko...
    Wiseco pistons, heli bars, race tech'ed gold 'busa forks, ohlins rear shock, hyperpro steering damper, linderman rear spring, #90 race tech fork springs, Carbone Loraine HH pads, Brembo mstr cyl, TCM lightened rear rotor, power comander 3, ZG double bubble, Vista cruise throttle lock, cooling system upgraded to '98, K&N, Intuative sliders frame, RK X ring 520 17/40, stainless lines, Corbin plus 1 inch seat, fender eliminator, M4 full system, Yosh clutch cover, EBC clutch springs, welded clutch center, factory pro shift kit, Ride Height Adjuster, '04 blk gixxer wheels, Sprox tri-metal, CRG clutch lever...

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  5. #14
    Baby Twin
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    Oct 2013
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    I was beginning to suspect that as a possible cause, but shouldn't tires of the same size from brand to brand be the same size with only minor variations in shape? The shinko is 190/50 zr17 which is the same size as the dunlop Q2 that was on in before, I wouldn't think that it would be that much lower. What does the tire being black and round have to do with anything, aren't most tires black and round?

  6. #15
    Superbike Twin dtracymoto's Avatar
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    I worked at a dealer for over ten years and do a fair mount of tuning and setup for trackdays at Miller's Motorsports park down the road from me. My point is, shinkos are real basic, you don't get a lot other than an okay tire that is black and round. They usually have a very flat profile. They work. A lot of riders use them, but when you want more tire that raises the bar for quality and maybe specific profiles, compound or duties. Then you need to get better stuff. A friend of mine runs a lot of cheap tires on his bikes, they work, but he just rides and is not looking to ask much more out of his stuff, good enough is cool to most. Others like me(OCD included) have to drive ourselves nutty looking for something we prob don't really need. But, hey it works for me....Enjoy whatever works, if it don't work then the search is on. It begins....
    Wiseco pistons, heli bars, race tech'ed gold 'busa forks, ohlins rear shock, hyperpro steering damper, linderman rear spring, #90 race tech fork springs, Carbone Loraine HH pads, Brembo mstr cyl, TCM lightened rear rotor, power comander 3, ZG double bubble, Vista cruise throttle lock, cooling system upgraded to '98, K&N, Intuative sliders frame, RK X ring 520 17/40, stainless lines, Corbin plus 1 inch seat, fender eliminator, M4 full system, Yosh clutch cover, EBC clutch springs, welded clutch center, factory pro shift kit, Ride Height Adjuster, '04 blk gixxer wheels, Sprox tri-metal, CRG clutch lever...

  7. #16
    Baby Twin
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    Oct 2013
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    So if I understand correctly a shinko's tire profile is flatter and not the same shape as other brand tires even though it is the same size?

  8. #17
    Superbike Twin dtracymoto's Avatar
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    Exacta'moondo. Sizes list tread width and aspect ratio(sidewall height in relationship to tread width), which is allowed to vary as much as something like 17%. 190/55s are very popular to get extra rear ride height into a setup with just a tire change compared to the 190/50 many bikes come with. Quickens steering and makes turn in more lively. Not everyone's cup'O tea, but a better setup for many of us. Some riders like the more relaxed turn in of a rounder profile, but really need to match front and rear at least to compliment each others character. A lot of changes can be made with varying tire brands and models to suite ones riding style with tread shapes.
    Wiseco pistons, heli bars, race tech'ed gold 'busa forks, ohlins rear shock, hyperpro steering damper, linderman rear spring, #90 race tech fork springs, Carbone Loraine HH pads, Brembo mstr cyl, TCM lightened rear rotor, power comander 3, ZG double bubble, Vista cruise throttle lock, cooling system upgraded to '98, K&N, Intuative sliders frame, RK X ring 520 17/40, stainless lines, Corbin plus 1 inch seat, fender eliminator, M4 full system, Yosh clutch cover, EBC clutch springs, welded clutch center, factory pro shift kit, Ride Height Adjuster, '04 blk gixxer wheels, Sprox tri-metal, CRG clutch lever...

  9. #18
    Baby Twin
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    Oct 2013
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    I guess that makes sense. So what would you suggest I do? It seems from what you're saying I can use up this tire or replace it with a taller one (55) so that it will match the front tire? Or could I replace the front tire with a 120/65 to make it lower to match the back tire better? I appreciate the help.
    Last edited by V-Twins; 05-04-2014 at 08:34 PM.

  10. #19
    Silver Subscriber cyclecamper's Avatar
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    I think all that's true. But still...why unstable at high speeds? I'd imagine all kinds of mismatch issues to consider while turning, but I think this thread started off complaining about straight-line stability at high speeds. What's the speed rating of the Shinko? I'd expect a shorter tire in the back to be more stable at really high speeds.
    It's about control skill; this is a motorized dance for joy and not Russian roulette.

  11. #20
    Baby Twin
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    Oct 2013
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    The shinko is rated to 168 and I am having problems around 105, at lower speeds its stable and the turning is fine (or seems fine to me) but I am not a tire expert. So a shorter tire at the back would be more stable than a taller one?

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