Thanks for all the replies.I’d replaced the original battery with a brand new one after this occurred the first time as I just assumed that the battery was knackered. So the new one is a Motobatt - not sure if you are familiar with the brand in the US but it’s the goto battery for high cranking amps and winter usage. I did measure about 10 mins after taking off the charger to act as a baseline for all the other measurements I wanted to do, but sadly didn’t get very far with that!BUT as you mentioned you just bought the bike, I would also highly suggest you bring the battery to a shop that can load test it and make sure it's still good. You did mentioned you charged it and you measure 14.06V. But that doesn't mean much if you measured that right after you disconnected the charger or while the charger is on. You must make sure you have a good working battery first, otherwise all tests and troubleshooting work will be for nothing.Ok so I had a little time last night to take left hand fairing off and inspect the connections, took some photos, everything looks ok to me, but I’m an untrained eye, so:Back to the issue: headlights drawing that much current is usually sign of bad connection creating resistance which in turn require the system to draw more "juice" and drain your battery much faster than normal. As mentioned before: yellow gang connector under the left ram air duct: yellow/white wire and black/red wire if you're in Europe (My guess is that you're outside of the US with a TL with headlight switch on/off).
Keep in mind that even if you went with the headlight mod your current OEM headlight wiring system will still need to be in operating status as your headlight mod still uses it; hence you MUST fix this.
I also checked the headlight connectors and they looked fine as well – nothing obvious anyway.
Now here is where it gets interesting.
After checking all these connections and cables, I wanted to test the charging mod was rigged up properly. So I measure across the battery with ignition off, get something like 13.3v. I had to jump start it again to get the engine idling. However with it idling, I measured across the battery again, and lo and behold I’m getting 14.3v IIRC, I rev up to 5k rpm and its 14.5v – this is now suggesting the charging mod is working.
After speaking with a friend who’s more knowledgable about bikes overall, we came to the conclusion that either
a) the reg/rec is faulty and is working intermittently but is on its way to a permanent death,
b) when checking the connections/wiring, I inadvertently cleaned a connection, reconnected some broken circuit…..just did SOMETHING that now seems to be giving me the expected voltages that the charging mod provides.
With headlights on voltage still did not fall below 14v.
I will certainly look into buying a MOSFET regulated reg/rec after xmas is over with – at it stands I don’t have the funds what with spending a lot of money to buy the bike in the first place and it being this time of year. So if the charging mod remains functional for the mean time to allow me to continue to use the bike regularly then that will at least be something.
So now what I need to do is make sure it stays giving me 14v and use the bike to see if I still have trouble starting it after the journey to work or wherever, which I will do tomorrow. If the 14v disappears I will reinspect/slightly move the wiring and see if it comes back in an effort to zero in on the problem area.
I’ve also ordered the Relays for the headlight mod and the Plus mod. I am in no way well versed in doing any of this sort of stuff, so I will probably start a new thread asking for help when the time comes in an “explain like I’m five” fashion.