Db-killer for full RS3 Yoshi system - Page 2
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Thread: Db-killer for full RS3 Yoshi system

  1. #11
    Baby Twin sharpedge's Avatar
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    Hello again...
    sorry for the bump, still passed the DMV, but it would relax me to actually have some kind of baffle to my system.
    I need some kind of insert baffle with a screw from the inside that just tightens against the inside of the pipe. Don't want to drill a hole through the exhaust unless it's a last resort thing.
    I guess my full RS-3 system is from 2005 or some year older.
    This seems to have just 1 screw and hopefully its screwed from the inside. Anyone where who has this exact model?
    http://www.yoshimura-rd.com/images/RS3-INS-K.pdf

    Cheers
    Andreas

  2. #12
    Baby Twin
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    Feb 2011
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    I don't have that but by looking at the picture it wouldn't work either. Doesn't have a spot for the screw to screw out radially (ie against the outer pipe diameter) but instead it looks like it screws in along the length of the pipe.. My tlr is a 99 and the yosh system I bought within a month of buying the bike (both new) and I don't have those bands around the end caps of the pipe and no flat surface inside the outlet tip with holes to screw it to either. I also noticed from your first pic that you have the tips facing outwards, not sure if that's because of the size of your plate or not but they were designed to point inwards so when you're cruising the exhaust empties into the draft behind the bike. I think that's to help the exhaust exit and or to keep draftees from having as much of an advantage Not sure though.

    You might be able to drill out the rivets on the end cap and do something more permanent for an installation of a DB killer or perhaps a mesh screened spark arrestor (spelling) would dampen it enough for you. Personally I've covered the first half of my perforated core with some muffler tape so my exhaust only hits the sound dampening on the second half of the can and it sounds nice but no where near as loud or obnoxious like most every harley davidson here in the states. I've drilled out and reriveted my cans probably half a dozen times over the years when I'd have a many houred session of repolishing them up again, just make sure to get stainless steel pop rivets as aluminum isn't strong and once the rivet is tight in there and you're stretching the pin almost ready to POP then pull away from the can and continue squeezing to avoid it popping and hitting the can again with the tip of the pop rivet gun and marring the surface (ask me how I know..) If you decide to take the can apart you should consider repacking it as that usually quiets the noise some as the other stuff is probably a decade old.

    Good luck!!

  3. #13
    Silver Subscriber Tuckshop Ted's Avatar
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    you can't use those ones with your pipes, no area to screw to.
    Yours, like mine are race cans not street cans.
    Look on ebay for a generic one that will fix as you want - they are about.

    Don't agree with you Notabiker regarding ally rivets.
    I re-pack all the time and use ally rivets, SS one's can be a right bugger to fix and lead to enlarged holes when removing them as you have to put much more pressure on the drill.
    Same as you I have marked the cans when the pin breaks off but the technique I use is to do the work on a big wad of soft cloth and lift the end of the can up an inch or so.
    So that when the pin breaks the can falls away from the gun but only falls an inch or so thus not damaging or scratching the thing.
    Red, the ONLY Colour.....for a 1997 TLS.....
    (1) Sold the old girl now ....... she will be missed...


    (2) UNO frame & swinger with 1040 Bimota (aka TLR) engine running 17x40 teeth, Hydraulic clutch conversion, Billet wndowed clutch cover & cut plate spinner, Dunlop tyres, PC3, TLS bodywork, GSXR750-TT forks with custom Wilbers springs etc, Nissin brake calipers all round, front ones radial, radial Nissin clutch & brake masters, GSXR1000 K5 clocks, PVM lightweight wheels, LED lights all round, Full Yoshi exhaust system, Carbon cans, Yoshi rearsets, K&N air filter, Wilbers custom rear shock, Custom paint job. Skidmarx bellypan, Low profile rear seat hump, MotoX bars, all round (literally) nice guy.

    (3) Bog standard BMW R1150RT.

    (4) Boxes of many parts waiting to be made into 2 more TLS's.

    Workshop in Welham Green near Hatfield in Hertfordshire - TEKMOTIVE - 01707 265000 - www.tekmotive.co.uk.

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  5. #14
    Evil Twin
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    The artist formerly known as Suprachrgd82

  6. #15
    Silver Subscriber Tuckshop Ted's Avatar
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    like I said, there is no matching screw hole in his cans.............
    Red, the ONLY Colour.....for a 1997 TLS.....
    (1) Sold the old girl now ....... she will be missed...


    (2) UNO frame & swinger with 1040 Bimota (aka TLR) engine running 17x40 teeth, Hydraulic clutch conversion, Billet wndowed clutch cover & cut plate spinner, Dunlop tyres, PC3, TLS bodywork, GSXR750-TT forks with custom Wilbers springs etc, Nissin brake calipers all round, front ones radial, radial Nissin clutch & brake masters, GSXR1000 K5 clocks, PVM lightweight wheels, LED lights all round, Full Yoshi exhaust system, Carbon cans, Yoshi rearsets, K&N air filter, Wilbers custom rear shock, Custom paint job. Skidmarx bellypan, Low profile rear seat hump, MotoX bars, all round (literally) nice guy.

    (3) Bog standard BMW R1150RT.

    (4) Boxes of many parts waiting to be made into 2 more TLS's.

    Workshop in Welham Green near Hatfield in Hertfordshire - TEKMOTIVE - 01707 265000 - www.tekmotive.co.uk.

  7. #16
    Baby Twin
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    Feb 2011
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    Time to resharpen your drill bits perhaps? Only problem I've ever had drilling rivets out is when they start to spin with the bit and then you have to use pliers or vice grips to hold the head while drilling. Should only require light pressure but yes SS will require the drill bit to drill but being as I spent time as a machinist I learned the art of sharpening drill bits on a bench grinder from 1/16" to larger than an inch and now I'm lazy and use a Drill Doctor 750 (normally $150 but one day on amazon for $20!!! so I haven't bought a bench grinder yet)

    If sharpedge really really wants those db killers in then I suggest drilling the cans apart and having a welding shop fit some tabs to make them work, only issue is when welding aluminum it needs to be super clean and being a TL exhaust it's most likely sooty and the opposite of clean

  8. #17
    Silver Subscriber Tuckshop Ted's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Notabiker View Post
    Time to resharpen your drill bits perhaps?

    yea maybe, however putting SS rivets back in is just as much of a bastard! - quite some lever pressure needed to snap them off I find.
    Red, the ONLY Colour.....for a 1997 TLS.....
    (1) Sold the old girl now ....... she will be missed...


    (2) UNO frame & swinger with 1040 Bimota (aka TLR) engine running 17x40 teeth, Hydraulic clutch conversion, Billet wndowed clutch cover & cut plate spinner, Dunlop tyres, PC3, TLS bodywork, GSXR750-TT forks with custom Wilbers springs etc, Nissin brake calipers all round, front ones radial, radial Nissin clutch & brake masters, GSXR1000 K5 clocks, PVM lightweight wheels, LED lights all round, Full Yoshi exhaust system, Carbon cans, Yoshi rearsets, K&N air filter, Wilbers custom rear shock, Custom paint job. Skidmarx bellypan, Low profile rear seat hump, MotoX bars, all round (literally) nice guy.

    (3) Bog standard BMW R1150RT.

    (4) Boxes of many parts waiting to be made into 2 more TLS's.

    Workshop in Welham Green near Hatfield in Hertfordshire - TEKMOTIVE - 01707 265000 - www.tekmotive.co.uk.

  9. #18
    Baby Twin
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    45
    Quote Originally Posted by Tuckshop Ted View Post
    yea maybe, however putting SS rivets back in is just as much of a bastard! - quite some lever pressure needed to snap them off I find.
    BONUS!! Your friends will start calling you Ahhhnold, just lay off the "I'll be back" jokes. I've got the one with the pivoting head and it's probably over a foot long so it's easy. Used it to do some riveting on my snowmobile when attaching accessories many years ago, now those were RIVETS!! Probably 5/8" diameter heads and 3/16" pins, that hurt the hands after doing a dozen..

  10. #19
    Evil Twin
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    The artist formerly known as Suprachrgd82

  11. #20
    Baby Twin
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    Feb 2011
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    Uhh this is for a TRS street exhaust muffler (looks like it fits round openings only) and he has an RS3 which has larger oval openings and is race only so it's not going to work..............

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