fuel pump wont prime on tl1000s
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Thread: fuel pump wont prime on tl1000s

  1. #1
    Superbike Twin sam_scum's Avatar
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    fuel pump wont prime on tl1000s

    ok my 1997 tl1000s has got an issue with the fuel pump priming

    i left the bike in the garage over crimbo (1 week) went to start her today and the fuel pump wont kick in
    u can hear the click from the relay but the pump wont prime. ive checked connections and kill switch
    but cant seem to figure out the problem

    anyone have an idea? or have a solution for it?

  2. #2
    Superbike Twin Powerdemon's Avatar
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    Have to tried dealer mode to see if any error codes come up?

  3. #3
    MotoGP Pit Boss Chris's Avatar
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    Wiggle the little pig tail -ve wire from the battery to the loom. Toledo's did this, took lots of head scratching to find it, but there was a bad connection or a break in the wire SPARKY fixed it... And it worked.

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  5. #4
    MotoGP Pit Boss Toledo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris View Post
    Wiggle the little pig tail -ve wire from the battery to the loom. Toledo's did this, took lots of head scratching to find it, but there was a bad connection or a break in the wire SPARKY fixed it... And it worked.

    It did
    Mark.

    TLOTM JULY '11





    People I will not deal with: tl1000s/tl1000r Will/2012-krystal or whatever he decides he might/might not call himself.

  6. #5
    One Liter Duc Eater johnd's Avatar
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    Mine did the same and it was a corroded wire to the block connector in the right hand fairing. Had to trace the wire back a few inches to get to decent wire to solder in a new piece.

  7. #6
    AMA Pit Boss Six5's Avatar
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    Check for these voltages at the fuel pump relay connector and you'll know which way to go from there.

    These are the signals or voltages that should be present at the fuel pump relay connector.

    • The Orange/Blue wire should be hot (@ 12 volts) all the time - even when the key is OFF.
    • The Orange/White wire should be hot after the key is turned ON (and the kill switch is ON).
    • When the key is turned ON, the ECM will then also drive the Yellow/Blue wire low (near zero volts). This drives the relay coil and activates the FP relay - thus connecting the Orange/Blue wire to the Yellow/Red wire for about three seconds. This is what powers the fuel pump.
    • You should hear the fuel pump running for those 3 seconds.
    • It should reprime the pump (for 3 seconds) after evey time the start button is cycled - if the engine does not start.
    • If the engine starts, then the pump will remain ON.

    If this sequence is not happening, below are some things to consider.
    Corroded terminals in the FP relay connector?
    Corroded terminals at the Fuel Pump itself?
    Not getting sufficient current due to a bad connector on the starter relay, or a gang connector in the loom?
    A Bad FP relay?
    ECM not pulling the Y/B wire low?
    Open Yellow/Red wire?
    Bad fuel pump?
    Open fuel pump fuse?

    Use a voltmeter (or an ohmmeter where appropriate) to confirm the circuit components above.

    The action of the fuel pump can be easily tested by disconnecting the FP relay connector and using a wire to short from the Orange/Blue wire to the Yellow/Red wire. The FP should start pumping.
    January 2012 TLOTM & BBOTM


  8. #7
    Baby Twin zrhb1's Avatar
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    I have a fuel pump problem as well. The relay clicks, but the pump does not prime. I checked all the fuses. I wiggled and checked all the wires for corrosion.... still no difference.

    I followed six5 post above. I put a wire between the orange/blue wire and yellow/red wire at the pump relay, there was a little spark, but the pump did not prime. Does this mean my problem is the fuel pump itself?

  9. #8
    AMA Pit Boss Six5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zrhb1 View Post
    ..... I put a wire between the orange/blue wire and yellow/red wire at the pump relay, there was a little spark, but the pump did not prime. Does this mean my problem is the fuel pump itself?
    It may be a faulty pump. Is it the original OEM unit?

    There are a couple other tests you can do before pulling the pump out.

    Verify the ground connection at the fuel pump connector (Black/White wire).

    I'm guessing that the spark you saw was due to current flowing through the pump's motor windings, and not due to an internal short. Otherwise, the fuel pump fuse would blow.

    So then, connect a volt meter to the Orange/Blue wire (relative to chassis ground) while you jumper it to the Yell/Red wire. The voltage should stay high at 12-ish volts.

    If the voltage at that point stays high, it is very likely the pump has failed.

    If the voltage goes low, then there is a resistance further 'up stream' that is not allowing sufficient current to flow to the pump. Further investigation will be required at the Large White Gang Connector and the fuse box and even back to the starter relay connector. Consult page 8-14 in the manual for the wiring diagram.
    January 2012 TLOTM & BBOTM


  10. #9
    Baby Twin zrhb1's Avatar
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    Thanks for the help.

    My pump is original, 2001, 22k miles.
    I went out and bought a voltmeter today.

    I connected the volt meter positive to the orange/blue wire, and connected the voltmeter negative to the yellow/red wire. The voltage stayed at 12.53v

    I put a separate wire between the orange/blue wire and the yellow/red wire, and got no noise from the pump. I then put the voltmeter to both as above (with a separate wire connecting the orange/blue to the yellow/red), and the voltage was very low at about .40v

    The white/black ground wire at the pump seems ok.

  11. #10
    Baby Twin
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    Exclamation

    Quote Originally Posted by Six5 View Post
    Check for these voltages at the fuel pump relay connector and you'll know which way to go from there.

    These are the signals or voltages that should be present at the fuel pump relay connector.

    • The Orange/Blue wire should be hot (@ 12 volts) all the time - even when the key is OFF.
    • The Orange/White wire should be hot after the key is turned ON (and the kill switch is ON).
    • When the key is turned ON, the ECM will then also drive the Yellow/Blue wire low (near zero volts). This drives the relay coil and activates the FP relay - thus connecting the Orange/Blue wire to the Yellow/Red wire for about three seconds. This is what powers the fuel pump.
    • You should hear the fuel pump running for those 3 seconds.
    • It should reprime the pump (for 3 seconds) after evey time the start button is cycled - if the engine does not start.
    • If the engine starts, then the pump will remain ON.

    If this sequence is not happening, below are some things to consider.
    Corroded terminals in the FP relay connector?
    Corroded terminals at the Fuel Pump itself?
    Not getting sufficient current due to a bad connector on the starter relay, or a gang connector in the loom?
    A Bad FP relay?
    ECM not pulling the Y/B wire low?
    Open Yellow/Red wire?
    Bad fuel pump?
    Open fuel pump fuse?

    Use a voltmeter (or an ohmmeter where appropriate) to confirm the circuit components above.

    The action of the fuel pump can be easily tested by disconnecting the FP relay connector and using a wire to short from the Orange/Blue wire to the Yellow/Red wire. The FP should start pumping.
    I am having same problems with fuel pump not priming when I switch on the ignition. Fuel pump will power up when I jump the two wires at the relay but when ignition is switched on to start the engine nothing happens.
    This is a 97 tl1000s it has two relays the same, when I swop the relays about it shows that on the right connector that the relay switches but the left doesn't so basically both relays r switching when tested.

    The yellow/blue wire voltage does not drop when I switch on ignition what causes this and is this my fault.

    Bare in mind now when I was cleaning the wiring connection in the loom the main white connecting block at the front of the engine had been looking dirty so sprayed it with wd40 and cleaned connections a bit then placed the connector back in and the pump fired up but it hasn't done it since with the ignition on and I have checked/tested the connections all seem fine with power getting through.

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